Riv Eng Posted December 19, 2022 Author Share Posted December 19, 2022 After all the repairs were sanded to 220, I taped everything up to get it ready for paint. and let me tell you - those are tight very tight corners to get in to. I managed to tape off the dash cluster, passenger dash/glovebox surround and the glovebox door and get it ready for paint. I'll be priming and sanding it myself, but otherwise I local shop will blast it for me. I believe the original colour was Argent Silver, which has some small amount metallic fake in it, and will be finished off with a few coats of 2K Satin Clear. I'm not concerned about masking the interior blue colour portion of the dash, since I'll be wrapping the interior plastic in leather, including the dash, center console, passenger knee pad, etc. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riv Eng Posted December 19, 2022 Author Share Posted December 19, 2022 While this was ongoing, I was also working on the gauge clusters. They needed a complete overhaul. I started by basting everything apart, and washing all the metal, chrome, and polycarbonate with steel wool and soapy water. I cleaned up the speedo and repainted the pointer, cleaned up the information gauge, and polished all the polycarbonate lenses. All the lenses were polished with my 6" random orbital buffer on a padded bench, first with a cutter compound and followed up with a finishing compound, and they came out almost as good as factory! A few deep scratches that I likely won't be able to get out but the rest came out without a hitch. I taped off the chrome, and hit the Bezels with SEM trim matte black, and they turned out just as good as new! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riv Eng Posted December 19, 2022 Author Share Posted December 19, 2022 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riv Eng Posted December 19, 2022 Author Share Posted December 19, 2022 Before Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riv Eng Posted December 19, 2022 Author Share Posted December 19, 2022 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riv Eng Posted December 19, 2022 Author Share Posted December 19, 2022 Before 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riv Eng Posted December 19, 2022 Author Share Posted December 19, 2022 (edited) Also, the clock!! like all 1st Gens my clock did not work. I did a quick search here and read that most clock issues are fixed with a good spritz of WD-40 or other oil. I took the clock assembly out of the housing, unscrewed the solenoid off the back and gave the whole thing a good few squirts of mineral machine oil. While it was apart I repainted the dials with a bit of craft paint, and it looked good as new! Edited December 19, 2022 by Riv Eng (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riv Eng Posted December 19, 2022 Author Share Posted December 19, 2022 while it was apart, I decided to repaint the housing in white. I'm generally not a huge fan of the turquoise blue, and high gloss white reflects better for a brighter night time driving experience, so a quick prime and paint from a rattle can, and it was good to go. While I'm at it, I might as well paint the bezel and trim ring in SEM Black matte trim paint, polish the clock face and it also is looking factory fresh! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riv Eng Posted December 19, 2022 Author Share Posted December 19, 2022 I also bench tested it after just a little spritz of mineral oil, and you guys don't lie. If your first gen clock doesn't work, oil it, and it mostly likely will start right back up again. I used a white mineral oil or machine oil (sewing machine oil is basically the same - just make sure you ask your wife first!) and it started ticking as soon as I connected the jumper cables. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexRiv_63 Posted December 19, 2022 Share Posted December 19, 2022 Impressive work! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riv Eng Posted March 4 Author Share Posted March 4 Well its been awhile since I provided any updates, so I figured I would step up and let everyone know how the restoration progresses. To pick up where I left off, I was working on the interior drivers dash and passenger glove box. Unfortunately, after I primed all my parts, the paint crinkled like nuts on me and didn't want to stick. I think the plastic BOP used was an early version low surface energy plastic (polyethylene?), and not a lot wants to stick to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riv Eng Posted March 4 Author Share Posted March 4 (edited) Either way, I happen to have a DIY-sized soda blaster, so a little time with baking soda took most of the plastic back to its original state. After that, a scuff with a scotchbrite to aid in future paint bite, prime and paint with the Argent Silver, and a pass with a 2K Clear. Turned out pretty good! I also took some time to re=paint the black and chrome trim. A little tape and SEM flat black brought it back to life. Edited March 4 by Riv Eng (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riv Eng Posted March 4 Author Share Posted March 4 After this, i turned my attention to the drivers console. first up after painting was leather, and I didn't choose the easiest parts as a trial run. I had to soak the leather in water to soften and clamp it in a buck to help stretch it out. I covered the bottom of the drivers panels on either side of the steering column, and i plan to cover the accessory panel hatches as well. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riv Eng Posted March 4 Author Share Posted March 4 after this, I removed the buck and installed the black trim and the lock cylinder and key 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riv Eng Posted March 4 Author Share Posted March 4 After that, lots of wiring, new Deutsch connectors and OEM blade connectors, new harness tape and hooking up all the dash instruments. Before i packed it away, I made sure lots of testing of all the components with my DC power supply was done. All the lights works, so i was very happy with the outcome. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riv Eng Posted March 4 Author Share Posted March 4 Before & After. The astute among you may notice I changed the light of my high beam indicator. I never liked the red, and blue is much more fitting for modern driving. It was as easy as popping off the lens from the back, and using a hole punch to cut a new lens out of a blue notebook cover. Works perfect! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riv Eng Posted March 4 Author Share Posted March 4 During this time, I was also working on making my Chassis a roller. First up: Rear Diff. New bearings, new studs, and a full descale and painting the inside of the axle flange. After that, full rear brake assembly and start putting it all together! The third membrane went in just fine, axles slid into place and we are one step closer to getting a roller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riv Eng Posted March 4 Author Share Posted March 4 (edited) After that was front end. I had gotten all new front end rubber and spent a few hours pressing everything in with my press. This included all the upper and lower bushings and ball joints, and the front end went together very smoothly. Edited March 4 by Riv Eng (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riv Eng Posted March 4 Author Share Posted March 4 after that, it was rolling it out into the sunshine to really get a good look! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riv Eng Posted March 4 Author Share Posted March 4 (edited) The other project that I have been working on, and currently wrapping up is the center console. I decided to wrap this in leather as well, but first I had to replace the broken tabs at the top (i think pretty much all 1st gen Rivs broke here?) Anyways, I reinforced it with sheet metal and epoxy, so fingers crossed it doesn't get in the way when it comes to installation. After that, I sanded the whole console down and started to glue on the leather. It went fairly ok, but it was a technically difficult piece - particularly around the drivers side where there is a light mount and a heater duct in close proximity. All in all, I'm very happy with the result, and I think it will help create a softer interior that breaks up the hard plastic. Edited March 4 by Riv Eng (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riv Eng Posted March 4 Author Share Posted March 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riv Eng Posted March 4 Author Share Posted March 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riv Eng Posted March 4 Author Share Posted March 4 After this, I finished my mahogany veneers in a Flat 2K clear coat and glued them to the center console pieces. I had the veneers laser cut onto some scraps based off a CAD file that I drew myself, and they fit pretty much perfectly. So off I went to my local hardwood store supplier and bought some 3/32" quarter sawn Mahogany. A couple of coats of a super hard Osmo Polyx hardwax oil, and a few coats of Flat Satin clear over top will make sure these veneers won't be scratched or damaged from regular use. I used a heavy-duty contact cement and used a sheet of wax paper as an interface to help me place the veneer where I wanted before it sticks. Went very smoothly, and i like the flat look of the interior - the flat leather works very well with the flat veneer, rather than having high-gloss everywhere. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riv Eng Posted March 4 Author Share Posted March 4 Before Vs After 3 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riv Eng Posted March 4 Author Share Posted March 4 I'm currently working on the wiring harness for the center console, and trying to decide what to do with the cigarette lighters and ashtrays. The rear cigarette lighter I'll likely turn into a USB A/USB C charger, like below. I just haven't found one I like yet. For the front Cigarette lighter, I'll probably go with a mini digital Volt meter. They are fairly cheap and easy to install, and I want to have something better than an idiot light, without actually getting rid of the idiot light. Finally, for the front ashtray, i think I'm going to try to squeeze two gauges in side-by-side. I measured the space, and I'll probably have to widen it, but i should be able to squeeze in a 2" temp and a 2" oil pressure gauge. I like the look of these from Faria Beede - I know they are for boaters, but they look good. As for the rear ashtray - no clue. I'll probably leave as it, since its virtually useless to anybody in the front seats. I may turn it into a plug in for a radio, but i'll probably go bluetooth anyways, so I'm not sure. Any ideas?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XframeFX Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 (edited) 16 hours ago, Riv Eng said: As for the rear ashtray - no clue. I'll probably leave as it, since its virtually useless to anybody in the front seats. I may turn it into a plug in for a radio, but i'll probably go bluetooth anyways, so I'm not sure. Any ideas?? For my '63, I replaced both, front and rear Casca Lighter sockets with high amperage Power Points from Princess Auto. Of course, I did away with the rubber safety plug in the front. But for the rear, I cut off the lanyard/tab and attached a 1963 Knob to it, simple! For the front lighter socket, I inserted an illuminated cigarette lighter USB Type-A Charger into the power point socket. Edited March 4 by XframeFX (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XframeFX Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 1 hour ago, Riv Eng said: The other project that I have been working on, and currently wrapping up is the center console. I decided to wrap this in leather as well It never occurred to me to wrap interior parts with leather, just re-paint. With re-paint, I had problems with 2-part Clear amd I don't think it was the Operator/User, it was the product (time expired?) So, in January a Member posted a link for trunk metal repair. But, it was a great resource for total restoration . . . . quality restoration! In it is where I learned of the technique to wrap interior parts with Leather. VERY NICE! http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?threads/1964-buick-riviera.7251/page-6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BulldogDriver Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 Dakota Digital multi-gauge oil/volt/temp, usb, and Rostra cruise control. Plug-in usb in passenger socket with cig lighter in glovebox. Close ashtray door and swap usb/lighter and interior looks stock. Ray 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RIVNIK Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 Best restoration documentation ever! Wish I could be there to help. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XframeFX Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 (edited) 7 hours ago, BulldogDriver said: Dakota Digital multi-gauge oil/volt/temp, usb, and Rostra cruise control. Plug-in usb in passenger socket with cig lighter in glovebox. Close ashtray door and swap usb/lighter and interior looks stock. Very nice Ray with your '63 like mine. ". . . cig lighter in glovebox" Image? A Rostra is the way to go for aftermarket cruise control. However, I'm still trying to modify the original Electro-cruise to continue using the dashboard control. I like the 3in1 Dakota Digital Gauge. I suppose I could do the same. Thanks for the idea! Hmmm interesting, everyone has a different idea with the ashtray. The Riviera was ahead of its time hiding it behind a door. For '64 they moved it lower to allow for a new HVAC control which is what Ottawa Dave has. The USB Type-A charger that Ray has in the rear socket, I have it in the front. 2nd image is a cheapo blue-tooth adapter for the Mono Delco AM/FM. Orange USB cable is to power the adapter of course. But, my Android still has a 3.5mm Jack for direct plug-in and the orange cable to keep it charged. Blue arrow shows a pancake LED to illuminate the ashtray compartment since that poorly designed Casca lighter light is gone with a replacement power point. Picture was taken low, light is not a distraction unless the Driver is short! To show how useless the original light was. Observe those pinhole perforations in the side of the ashtray, how could that possibly work? Again, this is all for 1963. Edited March 4 by XframeFX (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dundee Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 19 hours ago, Riv Eng said: Before & After. The astute among you may notice I changed the light of my high beam indicator. I never liked the red, and blue is much more fitting for modern driving. It was as easy as popping off the lens from the back, and using a hole punch to cut a new lens out of a blue notebook cover. Works perfect! Smokin! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BulldogDriver Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 John it’s just the cigarette element used to light one up. Pull usb, insert element, back to 1963. Ray 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riv Eng Posted March 5 Author Share Posted March 5 21 hours ago, XframeFX said: For my '63, I replaced both, front and rear Casca Lighter sockets with high amperage Power Points from Princess Auto. Of course, I did away with the rubber safety plug in the front. But for the rear, I cut off the lanyard/tab and attached a 1963 Knob to it, simple! For the front lighter socket, I inserted an illuminated cigarette lighter USB Type-A Charger into the power point socket. Good idea - I have the knobs for the cigarette lighters still. I noticed they have threaded studs, so I could just thread it into the plastic housing for the cap. Looks like I'll be going to PA this weekend to spend $3, and I'll likely walk out having spent $300! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riv Eng Posted March 5 Author Share Posted March 5 20 hours ago, XframeFX said: It never occurred to me to wrap interior parts with leather, just re-paint. With re-paint, I had problems with 2-part Clear amd I don't think it was the Operator/User, it was the product (time expired?) So, in January a Member posted a link for trunk metal repair. But, it was a great resource for total restoration . . . . quality restoration! In it is where I learned of the technique to wrap interior parts with Leather. VERY NICE! http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?threads/1964-buick-riviera.7251/page-6 I saw this guy when it was posted too, and I've been following him ever since. He's doing an amazing job! I don't pretend to be doing as good as a job as him, but I learn from what he's doing. The main difference I'll be doing is keeping the interior accessories in black leather, but I decided to go tan leather for the seats for a two-tone interior effect. Its not cheap though! For anybody interested, I sourced the leather from a local (to me) store in Toronto, and went with Carrera Leather (https://www.ctlleather.com/product-category/leather/carrera/). I decided to go with 2 hides of Ebony (black) and 4 hides of Tuscan Brown for the seats. If I have any left over, I'll probably sew a headliner too. at around $900/hide, it was not inexpensive, especially considering the same cost can get you all brand new upholstery from Clarks. I made paper templates of all my pieces to make sure they all fit before I started cutting. I ended up using about 1.5 hides, so that gives me a buffer for mistakes! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dundee Posted March 5 Share Posted March 5 Riv Eng your progress in some fiddly areas is inspiring. You remember those ac vents and rear arm rests I was chasing well Riviera63 helped me immensely and they were shipped to the car way down south, I haven’t even seen them but look fine in pics. You maybe passed the assembly stage on that dash but if by chance you have the eye vents out and can make a quick template would be much appreciated! I hope to get some updates on my progress soon as a start is planned for the car in May with my son doing school work experience at my nephews resto shop and the riviera is the chosen one. That means I can kick the boys butt if he stuffs anything up 😂. I think that hideous dash I have maybe a good place to start. ciao and keep up the good work I took some screenshots of some of your work for reference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riv Eng Posted March 5 Author Share Posted March 5 12 hours ago, BulldogDriver said: Dakota Digital multi-gauge oil/volt/temp, usb, and Rostra cruise control. Plug-in usb in passenger socket with cig lighter in glovebox. Close ashtray door and swap usb/lighter and interior looks stock. Ray I'll check out the Dakota Digital, thanks for the suggestion! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dundee Posted March 5 Share Posted March 5 2 minutes ago, Riv Eng said: I saw this guy when it was posted too, and I've been following him ever since. He's doing an amazing job! I don't pretend to be doing as good as a job as him, but I learn from what he's doing. The main difference I'll be doing is keeping the interior accessories in black leather, but I decided to go tan leather for the seats for a two-tone interior effect. Its not cheap though! For anybody interested, I sourced the leather from a local (to me) store in Toronto, and went with Carrera Leather (https://www.ctlleather.com/product-category/leather/carrera/). I decided to go with 2 hides of Ebony (black) and 4 hides of Tuscan Brown for the seats. If I have any left over, I'll probably sew a headliner too. at around $900/hide, it was not inexpensive, especially considering the same cost can get you all brand new upholstery from Clarks. I made paper templates of all my pieces to make sure they all fit before I started cutting. I ended up using about 1.5 hides, so that gives me a buffer for mistakes! Has he posted since last year?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riv Eng Posted March 5 Author Share Posted March 5 4 hours ago, XframeFX said: Very nice Ray with your '63 like mine. ". . . cig lighter in glovebox" Image? A Rostra is the way to go for aftermarket cruise control. However, I'm still trying to modify the original Electro-cruise to continue using the dashboard control. I like the 3in1 Dakota Digital Gauge. I suppose I could do the same. Thanks for the idea! Hmmm interesting, everyone has a different idea with the ashtray. The Riviera was ahead of its time hiding it behind a door. For '64 they moved it lower to allow for a new HVAC control which is what Ottawa Dave has. The USB Type-A charger that Ray has in the rear socket, I have it in the front. 2nd image is a cheapo blue-tooth adapter for the Mono Delco AM/FM. Orange USB cable is to power the adapter of course. But, my Android still has a 3.5mm Jack for direct plug-in and the orange cable to keep it charged. Blue arrow shows a pancake LED to illuminate the ashtray compartment since that poorly designed Casca lighter light is gone with a replacement power point. Picture was taken low, light is not a distraction unless the Driver is short! To show how useless the original light was. Observe those pinhole perforations in the side of the ashtray, how could that possibly work? Again, this is all for 1963. Yeah, its the ashtrays I'm stuck on. Cigarette lights are easy to convert, but I'm left scratching my head in regards to the ashtrays. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riv Eng Posted March 5 Author Share Posted March 5 4 minutes ago, Dundee said: Has he posted since last year?? http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?threads/1964-buick-riviera.7251/page-8 Nope, not since Nov. But his attention to detail is both terrifying and inspiring. I don't know any other restorer (myself included) that would think to replace seat springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riv Eng Posted March 5 Author Share Posted March 5 7 minutes ago, Dundee said: Riv Eng your progress in some fiddly areas is inspiring. You remember those ac vents and rear arm rests I was chasing well Riviera63 helped me immensely and they were shipped to the car way down south, I haven’t even seen them but look fine in pics. You maybe passed the assembly stage on that dash but if by chance you have the eye vents out and can make a quick template would be much appreciated! I hope to get some updates on my progress soon as a start is planned for the car in May with my son doing school work experience at my nephews resto shop and the riviera is the chosen one. That means I can kick the boys butt if he stuffs anything up 😂. I think that hideous dash I have maybe a good place to start. ciao and keep up the good work I took some screenshots of some of your work for reference. Sure Dundee, what template do you need? template of the cut-out in the dash? Also, if you need any specific photos let me know - this is the current stash I have on my phone of photos taken during the restoration so far. I expect to take over 10K photos by the time I'm done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now