ArticiferTom Posted January 20, 2022 Share Posted January 20, 2022 Looking for info on the planetary brake disk system . it is on both rear wheels at axle . Was covered in dirty grease . Was told similar was used on fork trucks and should be clean and dry . There is no fiction material just metal on metal plates ,alternated drive to wheel . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cudaman Posted January 20, 2022 Share Posted January 20, 2022 https://books.google.com/books?id=9Z8gb0m3-kUC&pg=RA3-PA30&lpg=RA3-PA30&dq=metz+brakes&source=bl&ots=CW_gy_bpc_&sig=ACfU3U2WFwax_46nMOsCpM-7q9po9fVfjw&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiqi9nxisH1AhX9lIkEHVZVCSEQ6AF6BAhuEAM#v=onepage&q=metz brakes&f=false 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted January 20, 2022 Author Share Posted January 20, 2022 (edited) Thanks cudasman ,great read . Could not determine if lube so going dry for now . Edited January 20, 2022 by ArticiferTom spellin (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cudaman Posted January 20, 2022 Share Posted January 20, 2022 If you have the patience, you can try logging onto https://www.hcfi.org/ and see if they have an electronic copy of the owner's manual for your car. You need patience because their website is slow as molasses and intermittent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlLaFong Posted January 21, 2022 Share Posted January 21, 2022 I'm still trying to figure out why it's called a planetary brake systen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted January 21, 2022 Author Share Posted January 21, 2022 Now after finding more about it . It proper name was " multiple- disk brake " . i called /gave the " planetary" ,because it was out of this world and needed something to call it .LOL ! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted January 27, 2022 Share Posted January 27, 2022 Looks like the brake system of the old Schwinn bicycles of the 50's. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted October 17, 2022 Share Posted October 17, 2022 (edited) Per the owner of this 1911 Or 1910 Metz, these brake discs are supposed to be greased. They should not be dry. The manual says you can also add oil, but I would try to keep that out of the wheel bearings. Adding oil reads as if that is something to do between greasing. He also mentioned that the maintenance manual suggested that these brakes do not produce full stopping easily, but merely slow the vehicle. For a full stop the driver may need to fenagle the reverse operation. Remember this is 1910 and an inexpensive car. Sorry for the delay on posting this. I would also like to get a copy of the section of the manual to show you. Maybe Tom will chime in. Hugh Edited October 18, 2022 by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted October 18, 2022 Share Posted October 18, 2022 This is a reprint from the original METZ manual. It explains the operation of the car and the brakes. Thank you to Tom Pruett for this information. Hugh THE USE OF THE METZ PLAN CAR. DIRECTIONS FOR DRIVING AND RUNNING THE CAR Although we are aware that a great number of our purchasers already understand the mechanism and operation of an automobile, still we feel that even they should study the following points as to driving the Metz Plan Car, as we wish the users of our automobile to get the VERY BEST results in operating. “FESTINA LENTE” This translated into English means “make haste slowly” and it embodies our advice to the constructor of a Metz Plan Car. Therefore, in the first place, before running the engine be careful to ascertain that the lubrication is working and that the gasoline feed is perfect. In the second place, go over every nut and bolt and be sure that no detail has been missed. Many motorists make the error of only giving consideration to the engine, leaving such important details as adjustment of transmission and wheels until these get troublesome through neglect. We feel constrained to give this warning, and a few moments spent in heeding it will be TIME WELL SPENT as it will materially prolong the life of the car. TO START THE ENGINE First of all, fill tanks. In filling the gasoline tank it is always advisable to use a funnel fitted with a strainer, as this prevents any water or dirt reaching the carburetor through the feed pipe. In 1909 models, remove motor base cover and pour in 1 ½ pints of best air cooled lubricating oil, then fill the lubricator with the same. The sight feed drips should be so regulated as to maintain this amount of oil constant. The best oil is always cheapest in this case for the difference in running will be distinctly better and the cost will only be a few cents more for 500 miles of driving. First see that the clutch pedal is withdrawn and that, thus, the friction discs are not in contact. Switch off magneto and open throttle lever. Notch the starting crank with handle DOWN, so that you will pull UPWARDS TO START THE ENGINE. One Or two brisk upward pulls, and the engine will readily start. Throttle the engine down after cranking so that it runs slowly, do not allow it to race. Prior to sending the carburetor from the factory we adjust it so as to meet average conditions and we send it with a booklet dealing with its adjustments. Sometimes the climate etc. in different localities may necessitate a slight readjustment of needle valve and air intake. It is easy to decide this by experimenting when the engine is running but, generally speaking, our adjustment will meet most conditions and the engine will start up quickly and fire regularly. ON THE ROAD Having seated yourself in the car release the foot- brakes, if they happen to be applied, place the driving lever in the third notch from forward. Accelerate the engine by opening the throttle and engage the clutch pedal gradually. When the car has travelled a few yards and the engine has picked up speed, release the clutch quickly, move the speed lever forward and again engage the clutch. In changing to a higher speed it will be found necessary on most occasions to accelerate the engine by opening the throttle. Always “let in the clutch”, that is, bring the friction disks together GENTLY as this imposes less strain upon the tires and other parts of the car. Always run the engine as slowly as possible for the work it has to do, that is to say, use the higher gear for the load and gradient without straining the engine. If you “race” the engine when it is running light you put unnecessary strain on the moving parts and are much more liable to do damage than when the engine is running fast under a load. Never let the engine run fast on a low gear when you can get the same speed out of the car, and a lower engine speed, by changing to a higher gear. Foe example:-If the car is running on the level, on, say third speed, and the engine begins to race, change at once to top speed, you will then get along as fast with the engine speed much less, quieter, and with a resultant saving of wear and tear of engine, bearings, and transmission, and also a reduction in the amount of gasoline and lubricating oil consumed. On the other hand, if the engine labors on a steep hill and the speed falls off appreciably, a change should be made to a lower gear of course and the throttle lever should be opened on a hill as wide as the occasion calls for. THE USE OF THE BRAKES Avoid as far as possible any necessity for sudden stoppage. More damage is done to cars by inconsiderate and violent application of powerful brakes, than by any work they have to do. When intending to stop, release clutch at a reasonable distance and let the momentum of the car carry it up to the stopping place, when it can be brought gently to a standstill by a very slight application of foot brakes. When about to descend a steep hill and you do not want to use the brakes, put the first or second (that is one of the LOWEST) speeds in and switch off, letting the car drive the engine. This will prevent the car “getting away” on any hill, and the lower the speed you are in, the more effective the brake. A powerful emergency brake can be employed by using the reverse. This should be used only in case of extreme necessity. To effect a sudden stop release the clutch, throw the speed lever back to reverse and the engage the clutch gradually. This will bring the car to standstill in its own length. The rear wheels should be detached every few months so that the multiple disc brakes may be packed with the very best grease. These brakes should also be oiled through the screw hole provided, from time to time, but grease also is needed to insure perfect working conditions. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Gregush Posted October 20, 2022 Share Posted October 20, 2022 That would be a friction disk brake setup, not planetary. Planetary would involve gears, generally small ones revolving around a larger one, like planets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted October 21, 2022 Share Posted October 21, 2022 The set up looks similar to the old Schwinn bike coaster brake system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted October 21, 2022 Author Share Posted October 21, 2022 Thanks for all info and responses . We have car running and brakes do slow down . Lube was only thing unsure of . That is answered now . With grease per manual . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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