What is this planetary brake system on 1912 Metz ? Mutiple-disk brake system.

[ArticiferTom]

Looking for info on the planetary brake disk system . it is on both rear wheels at axle . Was covered in dirty grease . Was told similar was used on fork trucks and should be clean and dry . There is no fiction material just metal on metal plates ,alternated drive to wheel .

 

[cudaman]

https://books.google.com/books?id=9Z8gb0m3-kUC&pg=RA3-PA30&lpg=RA3-PA30&dq=metz+brakes&source=bl&ots=CW_gy_bpc_&sig=ACfU3U2WFwax_46nMOsCpM-7q9po9fVfjw&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiqi9nxisH1AhX9lIkEHVZVCSEQ6AF6BAhuEAM#v=onepage&q=metz brakes&f=false

 

[ArticiferTom]

Thanks cudasman ,great read . Could not determine if lube so going dry for now .

Edited January 20, 2022 by ArticiferTom
spellin (see edit history)

[cudaman]

If you have the patience, you can try logging onto https://www.hcfi.org/ and see if they have an electronic copy of the owner's manual for your car.

 

You need patience because their website is slow as molasses and intermittent. 

 

[CarlLaFong]

I'm still trying to figure out why it's called a planetary  brake systen

[ArticiferTom]

Now after finding more about it . It proper name was " multiple- disk brake " . i called /gave the " planetary"  ,because it was out of this world and needed something to call it .LOL !

[Larry Schramm]

Looks like the brake system of the old Schwinn bicycles of the 50's.

[Hubert_25-25]

Per the owner of this 1911 Or 1910 Metz, these brake discs are supposed to be greased.  They should not be dry.  The manual says you can also add oil, but I would try to keep that out of the wheel bearings.  Adding oil reads as if that is something to do between greasing.  He also mentioned that the maintenance manual suggested that these brakes do not produce full stopping easily, but merely slow the vehicle.  For a full stop the driver may need to fenagle the reverse operation.  Remember this is 1910 and an inexpensive car. 

Sorry for the delay on posting this.  I would also like to get a copy of the section of the manual to show you.  Maybe Tom will chime in.  

Hugh

 

Edited October 18, 2022 by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)

[Hubert_25-25]

This is a reprint from the original METZ manual.  It explains the operation of the car and the brakes.  Thank you to Tom Pruett for this information.  Hugh

 

THE USE OF THE METZ PLAN CAR.
DIRECTIONS FOR DRIVING AND RUNNING THE CAR
Although we are aware that a great number of our
purchasers already understand the mechanism and
operation of an automobile, still we feel that even they
should study the following points as to driving the Metz
Plan Car, as we wish the users of our automobile to get
the VERY BEST results in operating.
“FESTINA LENTE”
This translated into English means “make haste
slowly” and it embodies our advice to the constructor of
a Metz Plan Car. Therefore, in the first place, before
running the engine be careful to ascertain that the
lubrication is working and that the gasoline feed is
perfect. In the second place, go over every nut and bolt
and be sure that no detail has been missed. Many
motorists make the error of only giving consideration to
the engine, leaving such important details as adjustment
of transmission and wheels until these get troublesome
through neglect. We feel constrained to give this
warning, and a few moments spent in heeding it will be
TIME WELL SPENT as it will materially prolong the life of
the car.

TO START THE ENGINE
First of all, fill tanks. In filling the gasoline tank it is
always advisable to use a funnel fitted with a strainer, as
this prevents any water or dirt reaching the carburetor
through the feed pipe. In 1909 models, remove motor
base cover and pour in 1 ½ pints of best air cooled
lubricating oil, then fill the lubricator with the same. The
sight feed drips should be so regulated as to maintain
this amount of oil constant. The best oil is always
cheapest in this case for the difference in running will be
distinctly better and the cost will only be a few cents
more for 500 miles of driving.
First see that the clutch pedal is withdrawn and that,
thus, the friction discs are not in contact. Switch off
magneto and open throttle lever. Notch the starting
crank with handle DOWN, so that you will pull UPWARDS
TO START THE ENGINE. One Or two brisk upward pulls,
and the engine will readily start. Throttle the engine
down after cranking so that it runs slowly, do not allow it
to race.
Prior to sending the carburetor from the factory we
adjust it so as to meet average conditions and we send it
with a booklet dealing with its adjustments. Sometimes

the climate etc. in different localities may necessitate a
slight readjustment of needle valve and air intake. It is
easy to decide this by experimenting when the engine is
running but, generally speaking, our adjustment will
meet most conditions and the engine will start up quickly
and fire regularly.
ON THE ROAD
Having seated yourself in the car release the foot-
brakes, if they happen to be applied, place the driving
lever in the third notch from forward. Accelerate the
engine by opening the throttle and engage the clutch
pedal gradually. When the car has travelled a few yards
and the engine has picked up speed, release the clutch
quickly, move the speed lever forward and again engage
the clutch. In changing to a higher speed it will be found
necessary on most occasions to accelerate the engine by
opening the throttle. Always “let in the clutch”, that is,
bring the friction disks together GENTLY as this imposes
less strain upon the tires and other parts of the car.
Always run the engine as slowly as possible for the
work it has to do, that is to say, use the higher gear for
the load and gradient without straining the engine. If you
“race” the engine when it is running light you put

unnecessary strain on the moving parts and are much
more liable to do damage than when the engine is
running fast under a load. Never let the engine run fast
on a low gear when you can get the same speed out of
the car, and a lower engine speed, by changing to a
higher gear. Foe example:-If the car is running on the
level, on, say third speed, and the engine begins to race,
change at once to top speed, you will then get along as
fast with the engine speed much less, quieter, and with a
resultant saving of wear and tear of engine, bearings, and
transmission, and also a reduction in the amount of
gasoline and lubricating oil consumed.
On the other hand, if the engine labors on a steep hill
and the speed falls off appreciably, a change should be
made to a lower gear of course and the throttle lever
should be opened on a hill as wide as the occasion calls
for.
THE USE OF THE BRAKES
Avoid as far as possible any necessity for sudden
stoppage. More damage is done to cars by inconsiderate
and violent application of powerful brakes, than by any
work they have to do. When intending to stop, release
clutch at a reasonable distance and let the momentum of

the car carry it up to the stopping place, when it can be
brought gently to a standstill by a very slight application
of foot brakes.
When about to descend a steep hill and you do not
want to use the brakes, put the first or second (that is
one of the LOWEST) speeds in and switch off, letting the
car drive the engine. This will prevent the car “getting
away” on any hill, and the lower the speed you are in,
the more effective the brake.
A powerful emergency brake can be employed by
using the reverse. This should be used only in case of
extreme necessity. To effect a sudden stop release the
clutch, throw the speed lever back to reverse and the
engage the clutch gradually. This will bring the car to
standstill in its own length.

The rear wheels should be detached every few months
so that the multiple disc brakes may be packed with the
very best grease. These brakes should also be oiled
through the screw hole provided, from time to time, but
grease also is needed to insure perfect working
conditions.

[Mark Gregush]

That would be a friction disk brake setup, not planetary. Planetary would involve gears, generally small ones revolving around a larger one, like planets. 

[Larry Schramm]

The set up looks similar to the old Schwinn bike coaster brake system.

[ArticiferTom]

Thanks for all info and responses . We have car running and brakes do slow down . Lube was only thing unsure of . That is answered now . With grease per manual .