Heat riser lube

[Buick35]

Now that I have a working heat riser on my 35 40 series, how do I lube the valve to prevent it from being stuck in the future?Thanks.

[Jim Nelson]

Anti-seize is the stuff.  it come in a tube (small for your job) at your auto parts store.    If I remember,  alcohol or a solvent like that wii let you squirt the anti-seize on and into the shaft.    Work the shaft while getting the stuff  in/on the shaft.     BTW,  DO NOT GET IT ON YOU !     Its very hard or almost impossible to get off.      I recommend using disposable gloves to - minimize - getting it on you.    Its great stuff but be careful...   I don't ever want mine to work.   Its  stuck / frozen in place  and want it to remain thatway.  

[Jim Nelson]

oooops,  I just bumped the wrong key.     My 37 and 38 had / have a dash mounted throttle.    I use that when starting and keeping a cold engine running.     When my water temp gage starts to rise, its warm enough to push it in and resume normal operation.     So thats my operation and my '35' has the same set up now.    I removed my twist  octane selection unit on my dash.     Now it works like a choke knob in the push / pull function.     The '35' is now home but I'm working much slower now.    I had mounted my 12 volt alternator on my regular '38' mounting bracket.   I felt it was to close to the hood and wiring bundle.    So I made a smaller / closer brace to move the alt.. closer to the block.   I ended up making two others to get right ,  close enough.    It is now where I think it should be.    Working on mounting my LED strip lights that are for brake / running lights.    I am making a brace to hold the strips just above the bottom of the rear window.   This will be almost invisible as they are only 1/2" high.    I hope to finish that next week..    Then I can legally drive it on the street.   

[Str8-8-Dave]

The old Buick service literature recommended graphite as a high temp capable lubricant for damper valve and heat riser valve.  I discovered Lock Ease which is a graphite laden penetrating oil in a small aerosol can works well.  The other tip is if your linkage is all there and the butterflies all operate do not leave the car parked in the full heat position, the valves will stick and you can destroy a working linkage setup if you force it open from the dash control.

[Buick35]

Thanks,Mine doesn't have a dash control,just the thermal spring and weight on the opposite end.

[Bloo]

Chrysler still makes their traditional heat riser solvent that they used for periodic heat riser maintenance. They call it "Rust Penetrant" instead of "heat riser solvent" these days. I believe there is a little graphite in it but probably not that much. It kept the heat risers freed up, and is good for getting stuck ones unstuck too. It is mainly a penetrating oil and probably the best penetrating oil ever. MOPAR 4318039AD. https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Chrysler-Accessories-4318039AC-Penetrant/dp/B00BV4DBAU

 

If you just want graphite to put on a working heat riser, Str8-8-Dave's suggestion sounds like a good one to me.

Edited October 3, 2021 by Bloo (see edit history)