dalef62 Posted November 18, 2020 Share Posted November 18, 2020 (edited) I am working on a customer's 1948 Chrysler Windsor, putting the engine and transmission in and I got new motor mounts for it. The problem I am having is the large metal washer that was on the original upper mount will not fit in the new rubber mount? Does it not go on the new mount or do I need to trim the mount? As you can see in the pictures it is the same diameter on the outside of the rubber as the outside of the metal washer... I have a shop manual coming for it but if anyone has some detailed pictures of the engine compartment it would be appreciated as I have no idea where some parts and wires go! Edited January 21, 2021 by dalef62 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryB Posted November 18, 2020 Share Posted November 18, 2020 Here is the parts book photo. Part number is 866050. Similar ones on eBay do not show washers. I don’t have the car so can’t give any firsthand help. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted November 18, 2020 Share Posted November 18, 2020 The new mounts install as is. The washer you have was originally vulcanized to the original mount. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WPVT Posted November 19, 2020 Share Posted November 19, 2020 The replacement rubber you get may or may not be the exact size as your original. The important thing to know is the basic design principle of that Chrysler engine mount. The engine should just rest on the upper rubber mount by it's own weight, not be bolted tightly to the frame. The lower rubber mount should be held by the bolt, spacer, and washer so that there is a slight bit of clearance between it and the frame. The length of the spacer and/or washers may have to be adjusted to accomplish this. So the engine rests on rubber by gravity...its not bolted to the frame. The lower rubber mount prevents the engine from flying off the upper mount under torque or a bump. It's all a matter of the spacer being the correct length to prevent the two rubber mounts from being tightly bolted. Tightly sandwiching the frame between the upper and lower mounts with the engine bolted to the sandwich negates most of the mount's intended vibration isolating qualities. The design depends on the engine being able to bounce up and down a tiny bit. Bolt it down, and the engine will make the whole vehicle shake. Understanding the above should help you navigate the problems you may encounter obtaining exact replacement parts. I'm a little concerned that I don't see the spacer tube in your photo, as that's the most important part. It may have been discarded at some point, as with the motor in place, it can be difficult to remove without damaging it. If it's missing you can use a piece of steel tubing with an appropriate inside and outside diameter, cut to the the exact length needed. It doesn't even have to be welded to the steel washer. Just get the length right so you can tighten the bolt without pulling the two rubber mounts completely together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalef62 Posted November 19, 2020 Author Share Posted November 19, 2020 Thanks for all the information. I do have the spacer so all should be well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WPVT Posted November 19, 2020 Share Posted November 19, 2020 44 minutes ago, dalef62 said: Thanks for all the information. I do have the spacer so all should be well. Dale, That's good news. Don't assume, however, that the spacer is the right length. It may have to be shorter or longer to accomplish the objective, or you may be able to achieve the necessary condition by adding washers. As long as you understand the principle, you'll be fine. Good luck ! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 (edited) Make sure the replacement new mounts are fairly soft rubber....fingernail should easily push into the rubber. Old hard rubber mounts or even new replacement mounts sometimes are so hard the engine transmits vibrations to the passenger compartment. The "T" tube and large diameter washer assembly are a welded one piece unit. This "T" tube and washer unit pushes down into the new motor mount before you install the rear donut mount into the cross member.... the tube portion is the spacer that won't let you over tighten the large rear mount bolt and nut. Sometimes it's very difficult to raise the engine enough to slip the assembled rear mounts into the cross member and under the corner of the bell housing. The car body has possibly dropped down a small amount. T- tube spacers and washer, different Chrysler and plymouth rear mounts.... different heights of tubes... Tubes are welded to the large washer. Edited November 20, 2020 by c49er (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalef62 Posted December 10, 2020 Author Share Posted December 10, 2020 (edited) Now I am working on getting the engine and transmission in and looking at all the shift levers and brackets and I think I am missing some. Can someone show me the linkage for the shifter? I have the shop manual but the pictures are terrible! Reprint... Am I missing something on the end of the linkage that is in the picture below that would mount to the bell housing? What is the metal plate with two holes and a few notches in it, the clean piece on the table??? I wish I would have bought a parts manual... Edited December 10, 2020 by dalef62 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WPVT Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 Regarding the spacers on the motor mounts, as another poster pointed out, they were dropped into the rubber cushions from above...not easy to do if the engine is in place. You'd have to lift the engine 3". Better to separate the washers from the tube and install it piecemeal. Mine were press fit and swaged. Some are apparently welded. Either way, you just want the tube to prevent over-tightening the bolt. The original design allowed a bit of clearance so that the lower rubber wasn't even snug. That's what helps the mount absorb vibration. Installed correctly, the engine is free to hop up and down on the upper cushion just a tiny bit. The bolt and lower cushion keep it from getting away. Tighten up the bolt to snug and compress the rubber, and you're back to transmitting the engine vibration to the frame. This small point is a surprise, but that's how it was intended to work. I'm guessing that many replacement installations aren't done this way, and don't work nearly as well as they could if done properly. (The cab mounts are similar, but they were installed tight. ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryB Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 Any help? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryB Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 More 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 (edited) Some pics....clutch fork spring is installed backwards in one pic...don't do that! Edited December 10, 2020 by c49er (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalef62 Posted December 10, 2020 Author Share Posted December 10, 2020 Sweet, between the parts diagrams and the pictures I should be able to figure it out! Thanks so much. I wish a club that I will not mention would offer support like this without always wanting me to join their club... Puts a bad taste in my mouth. Again, thanks for the help Terry and C49er. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryB Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 You are a member of our unofficial club, no dues required. Glad to help. C49er is THE MAN for real hands on help with this kind of stuff. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted December 11, 2020 Share Posted December 11, 2020 Love to help out! 1946-52 Chryslers is my arena for sure...love em 👍 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalef62 Posted January 6, 2021 Author Share Posted January 6, 2021 (edited) Quick question, where does the spring for the E-brake attach? From the E-brake lever to the floor stiffener on the body? Seems kind of a funny angle but looks right??? Edited January 6, 2021 by dalef62 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 Goes to the hole in the floor stiffiner brace....spring and extension rod on some body styles. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalef62 Posted January 7, 2021 Author Share Posted January 7, 2021 C49ER, I had a heck of a time getting that counter balance spring(heavy spring on clutch shaft) on. I finally removed the lower bolt on the bracket and rotated it, but I couldn't get the bolt to start threading back in so I put it back in and took the top bolt out and rotated the bracket and was able to get it threaded back in and tightened. Then I looked at your pictures and can see slight scratches on the frame from said bracket rotating to install the spring as I had done. Pictures are worth a thousand words! Thanks again for the help!! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalef62 Posted January 13, 2021 Author Share Posted January 13, 2021 One more question on the Chrysler. Where should the distributor rotor be pointing for number 1 cylinder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 (edited) Before I took my 1953 engine apart I took a photo and scribed the distributor housing. To ensure I reassemble it properly. Your oil pump drive tab will need to be indexed to match this position. So that the tang that drives the distributor, lines the rotor up in the position seen here. Edited January 15, 2021 by keithb7 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 On 1/13/2021 at 3:26 PM, dalef62 said: One more question on the Chrysler. Where should the distributor rotor be pointing for number 1 cylinder? Unless you are trying to make the position of the distributor match a wiring diagram or an original factory photo it does not matter where the rotor is pointing. All that is important is that the wire from there goes to # 1 cylinder when it is at TDC on it's compression stroke. The rest of the wires just follow around in order CW or CCW depending which way the rotor turns. keithb7 had the right idea. Before taking anything apart you should mark the position of everything. Even with timing gears or chains that are marked, I always make my own marks with a punch because I never know what some previous owner/mechanic has butchered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalef62 Posted January 15, 2021 Author Share Posted January 15, 2021 1 hour ago, Tinindian said: Unless you are trying to make the position of the distributor match a wiring diagram or an original factory photo it does not matter where the rotor is pointing. All that is important is that the wire from there goes to # 1 cylinder when it is at TDC on it's compression stroke. The rest of the wires just follow around in order CW or CCW depending which way the rotor turns. keithb7 had the right idea. Before taking anything apart you should mark the position of everything. Even with timing gears or chains that are marked, I always make my own marks with a punch because I never know what some previous owner/mechanic has butchered. I know that I can just put the wires on to match where the rotor is. I was trying to decide if someone had the distributor out and put it back in a different location, my rotor is pointing in about the same direction as keithb7, but the clips and ears on the distributor are different than mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalef62 Posted January 21, 2021 Author Share Posted January 21, 2021 Trying to get the throttle linkage connected to the carburetor and hook up the return spring, but can't seem to find out where it hooks on the head or ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalef62 Posted January 22, 2021 Author Share Posted January 22, 2021 I found a bracket in the trunk for the air cleaner and it has the spring attaching point on it. Installed and working! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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