SP micro switch fix causing popping in speakers

[RockinRiviDad]

Finally, I fixed my micro switch. It had a hairline crack in the micro switch body that would not allow me to adjust it. A little epoxy, a small clamp to hold it together while epoxy dried & all seems well…NOT!!

Now I am getting a loud “pop” or “crack” like sound from my speakers each time I touch the throttle as micro switch clicks. This happens in park at idle or at a stop sign/light & I touch the pedal.
 

I can also recreate the sound in my garage with the key in Aux position & I touch the throttle pedal with my hand
 

Any suggestions on what to check would be kindly appreciated. 
 

Edited October 2, 2020 by RockinRiviDad (see edit history)

[Jim Cannon]

Does the radio need to be on to hear this click sound?

 

Is the SP in the torque converter actually moving when the switch activates? Can you tell?

 

.

[RockinRiviDad]

My radio is not hooked up. I play music thru my phone which connects to my speakers with one of those Bluetooth thingys. 

I tried disconnecting all of my audio equipment & the popping is still there.

 

My buddy suggested I add a relay to the power wire feeding my audio. He thinks I might have a “dirty power source” as he describes. He explained that a relay may provide a clean source & hope that solves the popping 

 

Edited October 2, 2020 by RockinRiviDad (see edit history)

[arnulfo de l.a.]

Is the micro working right?check the wiring to the micro switch for bare wire possibly making contact with metal . Also make sure your connections on both ends are good and tight.

[arnulfo de l.a.]

A test with a wire from the battery positive to the switch pitch connection on the tranny would essentially be the same thing as adding a relay as your friend suggested. Save you the trouble of adding the relay only to find out it did not solve the problem.

[RockinRiviDad]

1 hour ago, arnulfo de l.a. said:

Is the micro working right?check the wiring to the micro switch for bare wire possibly making contact with metal . Also make sure your connections on both ends are good and tight.

Yes, the micro switch is working right now. I will post a little video. I’m excited about it working. But now that I cruised the car around with the SP working, I’m not sure I like it. It sits at a light/stop sign unless I depress the throttle. I might add the Hot Rod switch under the dash 🤷🏻‍♂️
 

Lately, I have been attacking all the stupid little things that need attention on my car. Both SP micro switch AND KD switch always had bare wires which had me thinking would arc & not allow them to work right. But I never heard “popping” from my speakers. Now that I have repaired the wires I get the “popping”. I can only assume that the both SP & KD did not work before. Now they work & it’s causing the “pop”. 
 

1 hour ago, arnulfo de l.a. said:

A test with a wire from the battery positive to the switch pitch connection on the tranny would essentially be the same thing as adding a relay as your friend suggested. Save you the trouble of adding the relay only to find out it did not solve the problem.

If I am understanding this correctly, a test wire from battery to SP connection would simply activate the solenoid to test if it works, right? In the this little video u can clearly hear the micro switch click but u can’t hear the solenoid activate. But I can clearly hear it in person. 
 

The relay my buddy suggested was not for the SP micro switch. It was for the audio system power source. By unplugging all audio (except power supply) & still getting a “pop” tells us it might be related to where the installer got power for my audio. A quick hunt for said power source revealed that he tapped into a power wire from my ignition. Correct me if I’m wrong, but I think adding a relay for my audio power will still be a safer option for audio even if the “pop” doesn’t go away. 

[RockinRiviDad]

It won’t allow me to add video 🤷🏻‍♂️

[Riviman]

Possible bad ground ?

[RockinRiviDad]

I checked the amp ground. But I’ll check to see if my EQ has one too. Thx

[XframeFX]

The amplifier is probably a Class-A and is sensitive to spikes in the power supply no matter where in the vehicle you hook it up.  A regulated PS would be the solution or find an amp that has it built-in.

On original radios, the same problem existed. GM used a CHOKE which is basically a transformer with a single winding on it. There will be a 1.5 V drop across it but so will a PS with a regulator such as those with an LM317.

There are all kinds on aliexpress or, try an old fashioned choke.

[RockinRiviDad]

What do u mean by “Class-A”?

 

I ordered a relay my buddy suggested I try. Still waiting for it to show up. Is that what u mean by a “regulated PS”?  

[XframeFX]

A quick search and no turn-key solutions. I went to crutchfield.com and you'd think they would have something. Here's a general write-up:

https://www.crutchfield.ca/S-sdxkyAck2p5/learn/big-3-alternator.html

 

Try a local car audio shop as well.

 

A sample DIY PS Product:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001018636795.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.5ad34baeA8CR9k&algo_pvid=81425db8-de14-4b8d-af6c-7545611eb18d&algo_expid=81425db8-de14-4b8d-af6c-7545611eb18d-7&btsid=0bb0624716021305997636155eeb9c&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

 

[RockinRiviDad]

So ur thinking the relay I ordered will not work?

[XframeFX]

On the power circuit of your amp, not likely. A relay allows connecting a heavier load directly to a power source that a switch cannot otherwise handle.

A regulated PS will produce a fixed voltage as its main purpose, again not addressing transient spikes but it will be a clean voltage supply.

So, back to a choke, its purpose is to absorb spikes in the supply.