Daves1940Buick56S Posted February 27, 2020 Share Posted February 27, 2020 All: My 1938 66S has a spotlite. This was not original to the car and was added sometime after 1979. I would like to remove it if I can get the holes patched properly. The hole in the windshield garnish molding can be filles when I get it re-woodgrained next month. The body is another question. Pic attached. I am not sure what the paint is. I have a chip of it (it came from the white spot in the pic), it is 0.01" thick. It does not dissolve or deform in any way in lacquer thinner. Maybe urethane? It looks so good I thought it might be lacquer but no. Assuming I can nail down the paint, do you think I can get the holes filled and this small area painted and have it look good? It is difficult to get a good photo as the body color is black. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted February 29, 2020 Share Posted February 29, 2020 In todays world, I would probably try a piece of metal for backing and use structural adhesive, the stuff that OEM manufacturers use to glue cars together. https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=dFRZXszvC5aGytMPwPq2wAs&q=automotive+structural+adhesive&oq=automotive+structurla&gs_l=psy-ab.1.0.0i13l6j0i13i30l4.32410118.32413939..32417251...0.0..0.201.2062.14j6j1......0....1..gws-wiz.......0i131j0j0i22i30.ek0LVsRhzS4#spf=1582945045455 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikefit Posted February 29, 2020 Share Posted February 29, 2020 I would 2nd Larry's motion there would be no strain on the patch or road salt get up there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daves1940Buick56S Posted March 5, 2020 Author Share Posted March 5, 2020 Today I took a piece of the paint chip and put it in acetone. I though for sure that would dissolve it. Nope! I left it in for several hrs and nothing. Definitely urethane? One thing I have not done is to try and type of cleaner wax, I just used straight wax after I got it. I will try it on a hidden area and see if any color appears on the rag. If not - maybe it's clear coat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhemi Posted March 5, 2020 Share Posted March 5, 2020 It would be easy for a good body man to sand that to bare metal and TIG weld in a plug patch. The screw holes are small enough to be welded shut without patching. That is a permanent fix. Matching black is not too difficult and if it's blended in properly it would be hard to see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted March 5, 2020 Share Posted March 5, 2020 Make certain there is no wiring in the "A" post that might be affected by the heat of welding. You might consider fiberglass patch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhemi Posted March 6, 2020 Share Posted March 6, 2020 18 hours ago, Barney Eaton said: Make certain there is no wiring in the "A" post that might be affected by the heat of welding. You might consider fiberglass patch Good comment on checking for wiring. Fiberglass is an abomination and should NEVER be used in patching metal. I have seen way too many chicken wire, bondo and fiberglass repairs in my life already. New welding technology has put MIG and TIG machines in the hands of hobbyists. Learn to weld or pay a professional. That patch is a sub-$100 fix not including paint match. It can be butt welded and 95%+ metal finished before primer and paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted March 6, 2020 Share Posted March 6, 2020 I have a Corvair that has a fiberglass repair/patch at the base of the windshield done over 40 years ago and there is no evidence of the repair.... there is also no heat to warp the steel. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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