Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by bhemi

  1. For example this was the door fix. Now it fits the door opening. The power window motor works and it looks like the door on the other side. If one more guy tells me "it works in a '37 Chevy so it will work in a '37 Buick" I may go postal. When we phoned NuRelic they claimed to have told us about the "fix" to make it work in a Buick..... All good now but delay after delay.
  2. Every new thing we add we have to keep asking ourselves. "does it interfere with anything else and can we service it and the components around it?" The power steering pump had to be that tight to make sure we could still access the suspension to do a wheel alignment. We keep grinding away on the body work. I am slowly getting frustrated with the issues that crop up after years of work. The new tool tray and rear pan showed us the deck lid was warped. Getting the power windows in made us realize the passengers door had taken a pretty good hit at one point. two steps forward.....
  3. These pics show how tight the nailhead fits. This is the power steering pump.
  4. Whilst we wait to fix the deck lid or hopefully find a better one they have moved to making adjustments to the front sheet metal. The right side of the nose still has a little modeling clay on it from when were experimenting with a different nose treatment. I decided Buick got it right in the first place and left it stock. We have cut the hood down to make the nose cone more rigid. The hood will be modified to have removable side because the nailhead is so pretty If anyone has a 1937 coupe trunk lid they don't need please contact me.
  5. I need a solid rust free deck lid for a '37/38 40 Series coupe. Please pm me with what you have.
  6. Thanks. I appreciate your kind words. When this in paint I will be over the moon. It's been 2 1/2 years of work so far. I think it will be pretty unique when done.
  7. More progress. I measure progress in inches on this project. Every change seems to bring another change and more hours making stuff fit. The original Buick frame was not symmetrical but the Art Morrison one is. The front of a '37 coupe narrows dramatically as you get up to the radiator. Also I am adding A/C and power steering and the nailhead is wider than a straight eight. I also wanted era (nailhead era) correct pulleys as I think a billet serpentine system would spoil the vibe. I want the fully "dressed" engine to stand out and the accessories to fade into the background so no chrome on the
  8. Other than the seat work continues on the firewall and the trunk area. Motor is out again and fenders back off. Maybe two months from paint?
  9. more seat pics. We split the seat in half but when sitting it will look like a solid bench.
  10. My coupe came as jigsaw puzzle. As I finally get it near to paint the fellow building is asking about inner fenders. I don't believe the 40 series cars had metal ones like the bigger series cars. Was there any type of splash shield?
  11. Small update. The solution for power seats was to saw the factory bench in half and use Mercedes power bucket tracks/motors. It solves the transmission hump problem and gives the driver/passenger independent controls. They will be well hidden when upholstered and I am using a '66 Cadillac switch.
  12. I am getting to the point on my car where I am think about getting glass. What tint, if any, was the original glass? Clear or green or something else?
  13. Thanks. I am lucky that in Vancouver we have a fabulous chrome shop nearby in Victoria, BC. https://www.electroshine.com/about/ They have been around for years. The work is fast, reasonably priced and show quality. The work they have done so far on my interior and exterior trim including horn ring has been top notch. I like using one shop for chrome as all the plating has the same shine and "tone" . Electroshine seems to get vintage chrome just right.
  14. I love the look of the stock bumpers. Plus the front grill is hard to replace. I may discard the over riders but definitely keeping the bumpers. The goal is to tuck it all in and make it a little "tighter" . I was looking at bumperettes or nerf bars but the '37 and '38 Buicks are too classy for that. I want people to look at my car and unless they look under the hood or at the frame they will think it is stock.
  15. Great pics. I have been following your thread and forgot how detailed it was. Thank you. I am trying to get mine to look sort of stock. I have an Art Morrison frame and will be making new bumper mounts. The thought is to eliminate the holes and bring the brackets up from underneath for a cleaner look that won't rust.
  16. When I bought my Buick it came with a patch panels to replace the lower trunk opening lip and the tool tray. They are either horrible reproductions or bad attempts to make pieces. Does any vender reproduce these? I need good pics of the tray and the lower trunk lip. As you can see the piece we have is too short and doesn't match the curve of the trunk lid from center to side.
  17. Great looking car. Would take a bit of elbow grease to bring it back
  18. The Fisher Body Manual and the Buick Shop manual are both reproduced and for sale on eBay. Print quality isn't great but expect to pay $20 to $30. i clipped a link to the the body manual https://www.ebay.com/itm/1941-1942-Buick-Body-Shop-Manual-Special-Super-Roadmaster-Century-Repair-Service/161575603391?fits=Year%3A1941|Model%3ASuper+Series+50|Make%3ABuick&hash=item259ea80cbf:g:0PgAAOSwF71Z1Z5r
  19. Definitely a quality paint job in non-stock color. If it is all original otherwise you might have some interest. A purist would look to be returning it to a factory color ASAP. I don't mind the color but would have limited in interest in a four door. It's a hot rod color on the "least likely to be a hot rod" model. Post up the the other Buicks and if you're serious there is a classified page
  20. Drive shaft tunnel done. Only thing left is to take out the clecos and TIG weld it all up.
  21. We made a relief in the trunk pan to get more volume back in the trunk. In the pic above it gently curved down but we lost stowage. This the solution we came up with.
  22. I saw these on the HAMB classifieds. Not mine but very cool. Caveat Emptor https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/buick-invicta-1960.1202947/
  23. Agreed, that's two hard days of driving. Probably 12 hours each way.
  24. A little parts porn. Tilton pedal assembly, vacuum pump and tank.
  25. RivNut is correct. The Allan Grove stuff tries to move all the moving parts "up and in" because of the way the nose on early cars pinch in. I wanted a clean look with lower components and we moved the brake booster to the trunk to make room. I am fitting a Vintage Air compressor, alternator, and power steering pump in a '37 Special with a 401 all while using a modified stock radiator and keep the stock 401 fan.
  • Create New...