bhemi

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  1. Not really 5th and 6th are overdrive gears 6th being 0.63:1. Rear end ration is 3.73:1 Tires ~ 28" tall. Red line is 5500 or better with roller rockers. Weight of a coupe was 3380 lbs. I bet a nailhead and T56 weighs 250 lbs less than the 248 and three speed. I think a a fuel injected 401 0.30 over with 11:1 compression and roller rockers should make 400+ horsepower. I think top speed is 170 mph+ not that I have anywhere to drive it that fast. What I want is to loaf along using all the nailhead torque at 70 mph.
  2. This what we came up with to allow me to keep the cool look of the old gauge package and add a tach without going to an ugly set of off the shelf round gauges set in a board like so many resto-mods do. The T56 allows for a sensor that runs a digital signal speedometer so we will go with that or a GPS unit. The drawings are out to Classic Instruments for pricing.
  3. You get a tiny bit of discoloration but flash rust is minimal. The car was last on the road in the late '50's or early '60's all the filler on the car is lead. Zero plastic. The minor body work on fenders and patches is all being TIG welded and metal finished so we are leaving it bare until all that is done.
  4. And this is what it looked like a year ago. going on the trailer
  5. Here is what it looks like underneath. We dipped the body at Redi-Strip. The amount of rust was minimal.
  6. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Buick-Radiator-medallion-Cloisonne-1937-maybe-other-years-too/113887171822?hash=item1a843454ee:g:AZIAAOSw4RBde~td They now have them on eBay. i get mine on Saturday so will be able to comment on quality then. Again, I have ZERO commercial interest other than I bought one.
  7. I have had a lot of help here even though I am not doing a pure restoration. I have made sure to pass on parts I am not using to Buick enthusiasts. I am pretty excited about the build and just posted a picture of the 1964 401 nailhead inside the engine compartment over in the modified section. Go have a look if you like engine porn 😊
  8. I recently passed the one year anniversary of my '37 coupe build. It has been a long haul just getting the engineering and suspension done. The engine is a 1964 401. 0.030 over with forged pistons, roller rockers from TA performance. We just ordered the Tremec 6 speed from American Power Train. The fuel injection is Hilborn but EFI. If you look closely you can see the bell housing which is a Quick Time unit. Rear end is True Trac posi 9 inch with 3.73:1 gears. Chassis is Art Morrison. Triangulated 4 Bar out back and IFS up front with an Opel rack. Engine is sitting in just for mock up. On the road by July 2020 (hopefully). Painting the car 1965 Riviera Bamboo Cream. 95% stock interior but being redone in leather. Adding A/C and power windows.
  9. I have been trying to get a good set of medallions for my 1937 Coupe for a year. Both the grille badge and the one on the nose. I looked at restoring mine and the cost was prohibitive and the wait times too long. I ended up sending my originals to Nostalgic Reflections in Washington state and they have made a set of reproductions. My belief is that they will be making these in batches of 10 or so so and selling them in the $200 range. Once i know I will post an update. I have zero commercial interest in the sale of the reproductions just posting to let people know there may be a solution to the problem I had. I doubt many McLaughlin badges sell but beat up original nose badges are on eBay and the prices can be high and the quality rough.
  10. Thanks. That is really close to what I am looking for. I found a code for Ditzler 80118. I might mix both and see what comes up. I will take a pic of both samples and post them.
  11. Does anyone have a paint code from a brand of paint still in production i.e. PPG etc. for Sequoia Cream. The color was used in other years after 1939 did the code stay the same? I don't just need the code I need what a supplier would use to blend the color.
  12. Basically there are two Canadian companies that do restorations of running boards. There was a "go to guy" in the USA who was in Georgia I believe but he has retired. The other option is to buy the reproduction rubber and glue it on running boards you have restored for rust and dents. Bob's Automobilia has them and some vendors on eBay but I it's all the Steele product. The original boards were "vulcanized" and the rubber bonded to the running board which is why it's so hard to get off. The Steele pieces for my '37 are in two pieces and you will have a seam. Glue of any sort is not as good as bonding.
  13. There is another thread on the same topic that is not that old
  14. There are vendors who sell "engine turned" stainless and aluminum 2D panels and will custom make any pattern. I have seen none that can stamp new 3D . i wonder if,after stripping off the lacquer you could find a non abrasive cleaner/polisher. I love the '40-41 dashes and am considering one for my '37 resto-mod http://www.fpmmetals.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/Street-Rod-Price-List.pdf This came up one my first Google search. Below is a link to a DIY solution that is pretty cool.