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We stitched heavy cast iron parts where I worked, manifolds are to thin to stitch. Contacted JB Weld and they said to try their JB Tank seal on it. Worth a try! The car is an all original model 70 2 door Brougham 1930.  Will post the results.. In the meantime, anyone have a spare they'll part with? Early production 218.6 engine with a downdraft carburetor.

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21 hours ago, Tim Wolfe said:

Has anyone ever used JB Weld to seal a crack on an intake manifold. My 1930 Chrysler with a 218.6 cu. in. engine has been welded and cracked again. Was welded with nickel rod. Any spares out there?

Can you provide a photo of your manifold? I have a couple, but not sure if I have the one you need.

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Edited by keiser31 (see edit history)
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I had a crack years ago and I had it welded then. When the manifolds were taken off I had a new exhaust manifold cast because the original had been welded poorly. The manifolds were mated up by an engine builder who is well known. Years later it cracked again and a weld shop welded it. I installed it and before I had a chance to torque the nuts, I heard it crack. So yes it must be out of alignment. ( welder clamped it to a heavy table before he welded it ) I'll check it out before I install it again before it is tightened down ( hindsight is great isn't it?)

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These combination manifolds, where intake and exhaust are tightly bolted together before mounting on block need special care to ensure all the mounting flanges lie in perfect alignment. Changes to the mating gasket (too thick/too thin) can cause alignment issues. Best practice is to assemble them tightly off the car and then set on a true flat surface and check for any signs of out of alignment. New manifold gaskets can allow for small alignment issue, but not much.

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You need to assemble the intake and exhaust manifolds together with a new gasket and then get a machine shop to clean them up on a surface grinder, so that all the exhaust and inlet ports are in alignment, or they will continue to crack. Any machine shop that skims cylinder heads should be able to do this for you. 

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Manifolds are off the engine, intake going to weld shop Monday. I have new gaskets and will have an engine rebuilder machine them together before they are installed again. Car hasn't been on the road since 2002, it's about time! Thanks ,  for all the input and advise. My other car will be at Auburn, Ind.  show in May and Keeneland Concours later in the year. Just want to drive the Brougham again.

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We stitched heavy cast iron parts where I worked, manifolds are to thin to stitch. Contacted JB Weld and they said to try their JB Tank seal on it. Worth a try! The car is an all original model 70 2 door Brougham 1930.  Will post the results.. In the meantime, anyone have a spare they'll part with? Early production 218.6 engine with a downdraft carburetor.

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With combination manifolds (like my '51 Plymouth) bolt them together loosely then put them on the engine. After you have torqued the manifolds to the engine block tighten the bolts that hold the manifolds together. Reduces the stress of the manifold being square to the block  instead of try to be square to each other. Went through 2 exhaust manifolds before being told this and the the last one has lasted 40+ years.

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