valk Posted September 10, 2019 Share Posted September 10, 2019 Been busy cleaing up/painting my radiator, inner front clip and installing fog lights. Taking off the front splash pan was a little tricky (8 bolts altogether), but now I can see and determine exactly where I want the fog lights installed. Now the hard part of locating and drilling the holes. Fortunately, the holes are located very close to the front grill which I can use as a reference for drilling. Now to reinstall the pan, drill the holes and final install of the lights! This method was shared with me by "Grandpa" who reminds me of the "Man in the Tree" in Game of Thrones as he knows and sees evertything.... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLYER15015 Posted September 10, 2019 Share Posted September 10, 2019 Valk, Looking at your second picture, and were it me, I would place them just a bit "outboard". Say centered on the outer edge of the grille. I think the style and size are perfect for a '41. 1941's are a bit too late for a big round Guide fog light. The expert here would be Matt Harwood, or Edinmass. I feel sorry for you guys with those "newer" cars with splash pans. HAHA............ Just my $ .02 and worth every penny. Mike in Colorado Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valk Posted September 10, 2019 Author Share Posted September 10, 2019 Thanks Mike. I kinda like them where they are - centered between the bumper guards. Moving them outward puts them behind the guards and not as balanced IMO. You're right about the spash pan - makes installation much more complicated. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted September 10, 2019 Share Posted September 10, 2019 I think they're in a good spot. The factory photos show them pretty far outboard, almost below the headlights, but I always thought that looked odd. They were concerned about blocking the grille opening and restricting cooling, but I think that's probably a non-issue. I was kind of restricted on my Limited where they lights would go simply because someone had already drilled holes for a crappy set of lights, but with some tweaking of the mounts I got them pretty much centered the way Peter's are. He's also using the right brackets, which raise them above the bumper an inch or two. I think he's made the right choice and those are definitely the right lights. After seeing the squared-off fog lights, anything else starts to look a little odd on a '41 Buick. Nice job, Peter! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valk Posted September 10, 2019 Author Share Posted September 10, 2019 Thanks Matt - great minds think alike. As one can barely see in the last pic, the brackets are clamped to the bumper support so you have limited options regarding where to install the lights. You can slide the bracket along the support for various light positions but that's it. Also, the front bumper supports are very weird in my opinion, in that they have many complex curves and twists. Mine are also slightly out of line - probably a common fault being smacked around for 75 years - one end being slightly higher than the other but it can be adjusted out. This is probably the best reason for bagging the factory installation instructions as they do not account for any variance from perfectly positioned front bumper braces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLYER15015 Posted September 10, 2019 Share Posted September 10, 2019 (edited) I told you Matt would know. And he mentioned the potential overheating concerns too. So, did you do the frost plug mod to your bypass valve ? PS; LOVE the heater hose shut off. I did the same thing to my '31 Chrysler. Mike in Colorado Edited September 10, 2019 by FLYER15015 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valk Posted September 14, 2019 Author Share Posted September 14, 2019 Ok I've reassembled and measured everything and ready to drill. The '41 Buick service bullitin I have references a "special tool' for drilling the holes for fog lights, a 1 5/8 inch hole saw with a pilot drill in the center. I bought one and am now wondering if it's too big. The largest circumference of the bracket is about 1 1/4 inch but the extra width may be needed to clear everything. Just thought I'd run it by you guys before I drill and can't turn back. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valk Posted September 15, 2019 Author Share Posted September 15, 2019 Too Late! Thankfully, everything worked out. I''ll have a pic of everything back together tomorrow. The hole saw worked great - put a block of wood underneath the pan to keep things solid and steady and let her rip. I put the pan back on before drilling - somewhat difficult in that it has to line up with 2 other pans underneath as they are all bolted together. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valk Posted September 16, 2019 Author Share Posted September 16, 2019 ..and finally I'm done with the install, now to wire them up..and straighten them out a little. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valk Posted September 30, 2019 Author Share Posted September 30, 2019 As suggested here, I'm running a single 12-gauge wire from my dash fog switch to right behind the front grill, then "splicing" in the 2 fog light wires so I don't have to run both light wires all the way to the switch. How would you guys suggest I make that 3-way connection? Butt connectors so the lights can be removed easily should I have to? Thanks for your opinions. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valk Posted September 30, 2019 Author Share Posted September 30, 2019 ....and I'd love to know how the factory wired 'em, including routing of the wires, if anyone knows or has a factory installed fog lights....fat chance on that one.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLYER15015 Posted September 30, 2019 Share Posted September 30, 2019 Were it me, I would solder my 3 wire connection up by the terminal block on the inner left fender, then run your single wire under the loom and thru the firewall to the switch. That's how I did mine, but I had to run 2 wires to the on-off-on 3 way toggle, for the Trippes and fogs. I put a 15 amp fuse on the hot lead to the switch. Mike in Colorado 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valk Posted October 2, 2019 Author Share Posted October 2, 2019 That sounds like a good alternative. Not many options for wires to pass through the firewall and I don't want to drill any holes. I'll keep exploring.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil morse Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 Peter, you will see that the biggest hole in the firewall for wires is at the top driver's side corner. There is a large rubber grommet. I believe the factory grommet had two different size holes -- one for the main harness that goes straight out, and one for the smaller "tributary" that takes a 90 degree turn and goes to the horns, starter, and distributor. The grommet that was on my car when I bought it (not sure if it was from the factory) had a third "blank" opening that could be punched out to take another wiring loom, a little smaller than the smaller of the original two holes. A former owner had opened up the third hole for fog light wires (among other things). When I got a replacement grommet from Steele, it had all three holes opened up. I don't know how your car is set up in terms of non-standard items. I'm using that third opening for my fuel pump and Pertronix wires, as well as wires to the carb for the under-dash starter button that my car uses instead of the accelerator switch. But anyhow this is a long-winded way of suggesting that you take a look at that large opening and see whether there's room there to run your fog light wires, even if you have to open up another hole in that rubber grommet. As you mention, there aren't many options. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLYER15015 Posted October 2, 2019 Share Posted October 2, 2019 Valk, Neil has it right. use the big grommet on the high left side of the firewall. I gave my wires a couple of turns of electrical tape where they went thru, just to act as a bit more insulation as they pass thru under the loom. Mike in Colorado Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valk Posted October 3, 2019 Author Share Posted October 3, 2019 That is the obvious choice, but my main "porthole" has a metal cover and is already maxed out with added window washer tube and wire. I may use one or two of these spring holes just to the left of the voltage regulator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil morse Posted October 3, 2019 Share Posted October 3, 2019 Yes, I see that it already looks pretty crowded in there. The "metal cover" is actually just around the edge of the rubber and is easy to remove. Once you take that off, you may find that it's possible to enlarge one of the holes in the rubber to fit another wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valk Posted October 3, 2019 Author Share Posted October 3, 2019 The metal cover covers the whole hole (that's pretty weird...) and cannot be removed without either disconnecting all the harnesses and stuff going throught it or cutting a slit and bending it off, neither of which is an option for me. I could drill another hole in the metal cover but it's pretty crowded already. I'll figure it out... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted October 3, 2019 Share Posted October 3, 2019 I'm pretty sure I just pushed the wire through next to one of the others in an existing opening. There's always a little give in the grommets. The car is at home, so I can't go look to confirm, but I didn't do anything extraordinary to get the wire out into the engine bay. Just make it look professional and tidy or hide it under a bigger bundle of wires, which is probably what I did. Looks great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil morse Posted October 3, 2019 Share Posted October 3, 2019 Are you sure about that? From your photo, it looks like my car where the metal piece just surrounds the rubber grommet and holds it in place. From your photo, it seems you can see the edge of the metal and it's just rubber in the middle. On my car, there is also a cut in the metal so it can be removed. Did you try to remove it? You may be surprised. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valk Posted October 3, 2019 Author Share Posted October 3, 2019 Well I'll be damned. You're right as usual Neil, I can't see sh*t anymore. So I could drill another hole or squish the wires through but, again, it's pretty there crowded already. I may have to do that but I'll poke around for another discreet route. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valk Posted October 4, 2019 Author Share Posted October 4, 2019 I think I'm going to route the wires through the spring holes in the pic above as it reqires no fiddling and positions them very close to where they have to be under the dash. According to Bill Anderson's book, fog lights were a dealer installed option, not factory installed. Pressing my luck here, but I could use some guidance regarding how best to connect the 2 fog light wires to the 1 power wire coming from the switch, a "Y" connection of sorts. Thanks very much, Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLYER15015 Posted October 4, 2019 Share Posted October 4, 2019 Valk, It's just a little wire. Shove it thru under the blue one with the red tracer. Don't forget to "fuse" THE HOT SIDE OF THE SWITCH. Mike in Colorado Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valk Posted October 4, 2019 Author Share Posted October 4, 2019 Mike, Yea I guess I could do that. There are 2 wires, though, that need to go through the firewall if i understand it right. And the switch itself already has a fuse, are you suggeting I need another one?? This is how I'm wiring it: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil morse Posted October 10, 2019 Share Posted October 10, 2019 Hi Peter: I don't know whether you resolved your fog light wiring, but I ended up just powering mine from the + terminal of the charge indicator. There was discussion earlier and in the other thread about using the BAT terminal of the regulator, but since there's already a 10 gauge wire connecting that terminal to the + terminal of the charge indicator under the dashboard, it seemed unnecessary to me to run yet another wire through the firewall. Neil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valk Posted October 10, 2019 Author Share Posted October 10, 2019 Hi Neil, I plowed ahead and tapped the voltage regulator for power. Everything's finished, install looks and works great. Case closed. Peter 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil morse Posted October 10, 2019 Share Posted October 10, 2019 Great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buicknutty Posted October 15, 2019 Share Posted October 15, 2019 Nice to hear! Enjoy! Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valk Posted October 15, 2019 Author Share Posted October 15, 2019 Thanks Boys, and thanks very much for your help. This is a cool option and I'm lucky to find them and have so much help with installation. Peter 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLYER15015 Posted October 15, 2019 Share Posted October 15, 2019 Looks great ! So, what's next ? Mike in Colorado Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valk Posted October 15, 2019 Author Share Posted October 15, 2019 Ha! Hey Mike, you seem to know me pretty well...three projects are being mulled over at the moment, 2 rather controversial. 1) Install a non-intrusive, no holes to be drilled, 2-tone (to match the car) windshield visor 2) Paint the firewall; and the most aggregious sin to purists, 3) a monogram on the driver door. I understand this one is a bit self-absorbed and egotistical but, hey, you only live once... Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valk Posted October 16, 2019 Author Share Posted October 16, 2019 ...and I am looking for a cool front license plate, maybe something WWII related like an Air Force insignia or even better, a 4-star General plate! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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