Reatta2drive Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 I just got a 1990 buick reatta. so sequence of events i got the AC fixed, new compressor accumulator, orifice tube, serviced and system all works great. but wouldn't kick on. on referral i took it to an electrical mechanic who chased it down to a power steering pressure sensor that wont let the compressor kick on, tried to put a new sensor but the pressure is stuck on high recommends a new power steering rack and pinion but said its ok to drive just unplugged the pressure sensor so the ac works. a day or two later took a 15 mile ish drive downtown and car engine thermometer starts reading hot, upon inspection there was a leak in the coolant line and i later figured out it was the thermostat hose and gaskets line. buy new thermostat an o ring for the pipe but there a no new thermostat seal gaskets, this one didn't look bad ,it was the o ring that was brittle and broke and was replaced, so i reinstalled the old thermostat seal until i could find one to order and get shipped. Took it on short drive no leaks no problems didn't get hot. Here is where i am asking for help took on a drive this morning was actually going to practice not even 5 miles away figured it be fine but i turned and the reatta suddenly wouldn't do anything when i press on the gas pedal. It didn't stutter or die just wouldn't accelerate. It was early enough for me to need headlights to see and drive those didn't stutter or die, and i don't remember if the dash blanked out or stayed on, i do remember seeing a service engine soon light though briefly. I pulled over had a hard time putting it in park and turning the car off and then the whole thing locked up. couldn't turn the steering wheel or pump the brakes, couldn't change gears (i.e. take it out of park as its an automatic), couldn't turn the ignition and no dash light turned on. interior courtesy lights came on and i turned the headlights off manually. I had actually called to have it towed but about 45 minutes of finagling disconnecting the negative battery turning the wheel as far as it could back and forth( which wasn't far so it was more like jiggling the steering wheel) and putting both the main key and the spare in i managed to turn the car back on and get it home. we tested it again this time only getting 400m it cut the fuel pedal but within a second or two returned so i just took it back home. timeline yesterday was when i did the thermostat. Just to cover bases i suspect the security system the most. However about 6 months ago it was necessary for the car to get the fuel tank cleaned and a new pump installed so my brain immediately also wondered if a lazy mechanic had not cleaned the fuel tank well and the fuel filter was in the process of clogging. These last few weeks are the first weeks it has been driven with the intent of being regular to put it in perspective it had been through 8 gallons of a full tank in 5 months and this month we are almost through the tank. I don't find the fuel tank or the air filter at fault simply because they wont explain the locking however i will check both and report back. also i cannot enter on board diagnostic, above electrical mechanic read the power steering code and also a code for some talking issues between bcm and ecc but no specifics were available when i asked about these. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 (edited) In one paragraph you have described about everything that could possibly go wrong with a Reatta between the front bumper and the rear bumper. Is there a specific question you would like to have answered? Edited August 22, 2019 by Ronnie (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 Sorry to hear about the problems you are having..........hope you got the extended warranty. Please don't think all Reattas have these problems......remember you have a 30 year old car, regardless of the mileage. * I would not put a new steering rack in the car, just leave the connector unplugged. * I once had a Reatta that needed a new fuel pump, when we pulled the tank it had lots of what looked like coffee grounds.....turned out to be a badly rusted tank in the inside. needed to replace the gas tank.....good news, Riviera, Eldorado, and Seville use the same tank. * If you do any of your own work, buy a Buick Reatta Service manual and you can track down many of the problems. There are several people on this forum that have spare parts.......if you need a BCM or ECM they can probably help you at a fraction of what a mechanic will charge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reatta2drive Posted August 22, 2019 Author Share Posted August 22, 2019 (edited) yes my car engine is stopping while driving, it suddenly loses power while driving pressing accelerator does nothing but speed it death. it doesn't sputter just quits. put a lot of my explanation in that top paragraph. it quits and seems to security lock edit: car has 113,528 miles Edited August 22, 2019 by Reatta2drive (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 I believe there are two things at play. One you need an Ignition Control Module which can explain the loss of power and no start. I just went through that on my Red Reatta. It had no power and and wouldn't start easily and when it did ran for a short period of time and died. I also think you are correct in thinking your "Vats" system is bad. Sometimes they will work if you clean the resistor on your key. Do us a favor and put the year of your car in the signature line. It helps us a lot. Most people thing 4 year run of Reatta they must all be the same. I assure you they are not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reatta2drive Posted August 23, 2019 Author Share Posted August 23, 2019 (edited) ok so i replaced the fuel filter as well, i will work on the ignition control module but i am unsure if i meet all criteria. Today i test drove after each replacement i pulled up the thermostat to make sure i had inserted the thermostat the correct direction after reading a guest post on this site from 2002 with intermittent power loss. I also pulled out the air filter replaced test drove, then after being dumb and breaking the o ring seal for the water pipe portion of the thermostat i replaced that again and the fuel filter. To work on the ignition control after every test drive in 2 miles ish sometimes less i'd lose power according to the person following me i lose all lights as well from the rear. i turn the car off minute later i stick the key back in and it powers to life no problems. the first time is the only time it security locked on me where i couldn't even turn the key in the ignition. again i have no stuttering and no putting just loses power and then quits idling. and every time i turn the key in it it starts up. I was planning on starting it and watching it idle for a few minutes tomorrow and if you think it worth switching out the ignition control module still then i'll do that just looking for a plan of attack. Edited August 23, 2019 by Reatta2drive (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted August 23, 2019 Share Posted August 23, 2019 13 minutes ago, Reatta2drive said: after every test drive in 2 miles ish sometimes less i'd lose power according to the person following me i lose all lights as well from the rear. i turn the car off minute later i stick the key back in and it powers to life no problems. the first time is the only time it security locked on me where i couldn't even turn the key in the ignition. Since you are losing power to the lights when the engine dies you might want to check this out. Battery Cable Checks & Repair I don't believe the security system can lock the ignition switch where you can't turn the key. It only disables the starter so the engine won't turn when the key is turned. Something besides the VATS is causing that. BTW, Welcome to the forum! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reatta2drive Posted August 24, 2019 Author Share Posted August 24, 2019 (edited) how can i go about asking the pricing and such for an ecm and bcm and possibly ecc if available. and thank you for the welcome also an ignition control module Edited August 24, 2019 by Reatta2drive (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted August 24, 2019 Share Posted August 24, 2019 (edited) If you are wanting to buy those items you can post a want-to-buy ad in the Buy/Sell forum. A link to that forum is at the top of this forum. If you are just looking to get an idea of the prices I'm sure one of the parts vendors that frequent this forum will chime in soon. Edited August 24, 2019 by Ronnie (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin M Posted August 24, 2019 Share Posted August 24, 2019 The VATs is a lock out of the fuel pump and starter. If the VATs fails while driving your car will still run until you shut it off. If trying to start the car cold the security light is flashing and you get a no start the easiest thing to do is try the other key. Or clean the resistor like said above. In my opinion it’s probably not a VATs issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reatta2drive Posted August 28, 2019 Author Share Posted August 28, 2019 ok so idk if it was locking me because i was using spares, but we have tagged the issue due to the fuel pump not being set properly or completely into the tank because we filled up the gas (had 3 gallons left) and it now works properly. Thanks everyone for your help. id like to try to be able to access on board diagnostics at some point so i was just contemplating too try switching the ecm or the ecc. so i'll make a post in buy and sell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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