Reatta2drive

Thank you for the ipc idea I will definitely try it! update so far is that I have replaced the o2 sensor and the car has 7 miles on it after a new catalytic converter. However I still have a check engine light. I still need to check the voltage but I unplugged the battery after the o2 sensor change to reset codes and I still got one. I will look for an ipc and work on the voltage and update again. Thank you all for the support.

In the next few days we will read the voltage and test that. The climate control does work, and when trying to enter diagnostics the dash flashes but I am unable to scroll or receive codes. I'll take of video of trying to enter diagnostics before I test the voltage and probably grab an O2 sensor sometime this week. Thanks for the replies everyone! I'll keep you updated.

Apologies, the code reading instructions we followed were from https://www.reattaowner.com/roj/onboard-diagnostics/how-to-access-trouble-codes#2-how-to-access-the-codes-for-90-91-models not reatta.net Yes, the ALDL cover was on. The check engine light only pops up at idle, such as at a stop light or after warming up. Once you get moving it shuts off.

This is a constant issue we've been having since purchasing the car. Following the reatta.net instructions on reading codes for the 1990 model it just flashes once and doesn't do anything else. Since then we have replaced the ECM, no change. We have not been able to find the correct BCM for sale anywhere. In the meantime we purchased a Red Devil River ALDL connector and have been attempting to use the Tuner Pro RT software to read the codes but it has been showing some majorly erratic data. Any advice on where to go from here? If it helps, the car failed to pass SMOG, it had double over the max value of NO. So it is due for a new catalytic converter.

ok so idk if it was locking me because i was using spares, but we have tagged the issue due to the fuel pump not being set properly or completely into the tank because we filled up the gas (had 3 gallons left) and it now works properly. Thanks everyone for your help. id like to try to be able to access on board diagnostics at some point so i was just contemplating too try switching the ecm or the ecc. so i'll make a post in buy and sell.

how can i go about asking the pricing and such for an ecm and bcm and possibly ecc if available. and thank you for the welcome also an ignition control module

Hello I just got my Buick reatta and I know the front struts in the hood need to be replaced but I was unsure about the trunk, it appears that a previous owner put a tail on the vehicle and I wasn’t sure if that could be the cause of it not jumping off the latch. Whenever I release it through button remote access or key I have to physically lift it off the latch to gain access to the trunk at a timing when the lock releases.

ok so i replaced the fuel filter as well, i will work on the ignition control module but i am unsure if i meet all criteria. Today i test drove after each replacement i pulled up the thermostat to make sure i had inserted the thermostat the correct direction after reading a guest post on this site from 2002 with intermittent power loss. I also pulled out the air filter replaced test drove, then after being dumb and breaking the o ring seal for the water pipe portion of the thermostat i replaced that again and the fuel filter. To work on the ignition control after every test drive in 2 miles ish sometimes less i'd lose power according to the person following me i lose all lights as well from the rear. i turn the car off minute later i stick the key back in and it powers to life no problems. the first time is the only time it security locked on me where i couldn't even turn the key in the ignition. again i have no stuttering and no putting just loses power and then quits idling. and every time i turn the key in it it starts up. I was planning on starting it and watching it idle for a few minutes tomorrow and if you think it worth switching out the ignition control module still then i'll do that just looking for a plan of attack.

yes my car engine is stopping while driving, it suddenly loses power while driving pressing accelerator does nothing but speed it death. it doesn't sputter just quits. put a lot of my explanation in that top paragraph. it quits and seems to security lock edit: car has 113,528 miles

I just got a 1990 buick reatta. so sequence of events i got the AC fixed, new compressor accumulator, orifice tube, serviced and system all works great. but wouldn't kick on. on referral i took it to an electrical mechanic who chased it down to a power steering pressure sensor that wont let the compressor kick on, tried to put a new sensor but the pressure is stuck on high recommends a new power steering rack and pinion but said its ok to drive just unplugged the pressure sensor so the ac works. a day or two later took a 15 mile ish drive downtown and car engine thermometer starts reading hot, upon inspection there was a leak in the coolant line and i later figured out it was the thermostat hose and gaskets line. buy new thermostat an o ring for the pipe but there a no new thermostat seal gaskets, this one didn't look bad ,it was the o ring that was brittle and broke and was replaced, so i reinstalled the old thermostat seal until i could find one to order and get shipped. Took it on short drive no leaks no problems didn't get hot. Here is where i am asking for help took on a drive this morning was actually going to practice not even 5 miles away figured it be fine but i turned and the reatta suddenly wouldn't do anything when i press on the gas pedal. It didn't stutter or die just wouldn't accelerate. It was early enough for me to need headlights to see and drive those didn't stutter or die, and i don't remember if the dash blanked out or stayed on, i do remember seeing a service engine soon light though briefly. I pulled over had a hard time putting it in park and turning the car off and then the whole thing locked up. couldn't turn the steering wheel or pump the brakes, couldn't change gears (i.e. take it out of park as its an automatic), couldn't turn the ignition and no dash light turned on. interior courtesy lights came on and i turned the headlights off manually. I had actually called to have it towed but about 45 minutes of finagling disconnecting the negative battery turning the wheel as far as it could back and forth( which wasn't far so it was more like jiggling the steering wheel) and putting both the main key and the spare in i managed to turn the car back on and get it home. we tested it again this time only getting 400m it cut the fuel pedal but within a second or two returned so i just took it back home. timeline yesterday was when i did the thermostat. Just to cover bases i suspect the security system the most. However about 6 months ago it was necessary for the car to get the fuel tank cleaned and a new pump installed so my brain immediately also wondered if a lazy mechanic had not cleaned the fuel tank well and the fuel filter was in the process of clogging. These last few weeks are the first weeks it has been driven with the intent of being regular to put it in perspective it had been through 8 gallons of a full tank in 5 months and this month we are almost through the tank. I don't find the fuel tank or the air filter at fault simply because they wont explain the locking however i will check both and report back. also i cannot enter on board diagnostic, above electrical mechanic read the power steering code and also a code for some talking issues between bcm and ecc but no specifics were available when i asked about these.