Kestrel Posted January 2, 2019 Share Posted January 2, 2019 I couldn't believe the amount of hardened crud on my transmission's oil pan filter. The poor Dynaflow must have been starved for flow. 27,500 miles on the car but obviously the pan was never off. Plenty of sludge there too. 2 days soaking in a can of Berryman's Carb Cleaner fixed that ! 🤮 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted January 2, 2019 Share Posted January 2, 2019 Usually that kind of mess happens when there is some water getting in...usually from the transmission cooler/heat exchanger. Check it or bypass with an aftermarket transmission cooler. Nice clean-up. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kestrel Posted January 3, 2019 Author Share Posted January 3, 2019 Thank you. I'll poke around in there. Could normal condensation from the car sitting for many years contribute somewhat ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
51dyno Posted January 3, 2019 Share Posted January 3, 2019 What did the tranny oil look like . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kestrel Posted January 3, 2019 Author Share Posted January 3, 2019 A uniformly dark reddish color, almost black. No traces of milky white moisture laden oil. At least to my eyes. Might be interesting to have it analyzed, if I knew where to bring it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted January 3, 2019 Share Posted January 3, 2019 Almost looks like an overheating transmission. Stranger yet, it looks like the oil pan after years of sitting and lack of oil changes. Wonder if anyone dumped something in other then transmission fluid? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kestrel Posted January 3, 2019 Author Share Posted January 3, 2019 That's what I was thinking. Someone didn't have their morning coffee and poured in some 30 wt oil by mistake. Yes, my crankcase oil pan looked the same. The oil doesn't smell burnt. Car shifted and ran fine, but I didn't test drive it far. No leaks, except a small one out the rear torque ball thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted January 3, 2019 Share Posted January 3, 2019 9 minutes ago, Kestrel said: That's what I was thinking. Someone didn't have their morning coffee and poured in some 30 wt oil by mistake. Yes, my crankcase oil pan looked the same. The oil doesn't smell burnt. Car shifted and ran fine, but I didn't test drive it far. No leaks, except a small one out the rear torque ball thing. I'm sure the transmission is much happier with the new fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted January 3, 2019 Share Posted January 3, 2019 An empirical test for water in oil or fluid: put a small drop on a hot plate or hot manifold...if there is a sizzle there is moisture; smoke only there is no moisture present at this time (but previous exposure to moisture will make it look like yours). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kestrel Posted January 3, 2019 Author Share Posted January 3, 2019 When the wife goes shopping maybe I'll fry up a little on the stove. I have over 5 quarts of the stuff. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kestrel Posted January 3, 2019 Author Share Posted January 3, 2019 Just curious why the shop manual says in large capitals "TRANSMISSION MUST NOT BE FLUSHED" . It so states in the 25,000 mile Lubricare section. Chance of crud lodging in critical areas and causing trouble ? I've read several past AACA post war threads on this subject and the consensus seems to be simply repeat filing and draining until the ATF runs clean, running engine and driving in between if possible. I've drained out initially about 5 qts. I've watch many videos on flushing but they were always on modern cars. Appreciate any comments. Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted January 3, 2019 Share Posted January 3, 2019 Check to see if yours has plugs in the torque converter (to drain it) like my 55's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kestrel Posted January 3, 2019 Author Share Posted January 3, 2019 Yes, 2 diametrically opposed. One was loosened (for air) and the other removed, converter was drained. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted January 3, 2019 Share Posted January 3, 2019 2 hours ago, Kestrel said: I've drained out initially about 5 qts. 1 hour ago, Kestrel said: converter was drained. What is the refill capacity? Mine is 10 qts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kestrel Posted January 3, 2019 Author Share Posted January 3, 2019 Approx. 8 and 1/2 qts. unless dry , then it would take an additional 1 and 3/4 pints. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted January 4, 2019 Share Posted January 4, 2019 On newer vehicles, the "flush machines" have many variations. The better ones put new fluid in as the old fluid is removed, automatically. The less expensive ones you had to orchestrate/watch manually, so that the trans pump didn't run dry temporarily. Those machines didn't exist (as far as I know) prior to the popularity of "flushes" in the 1980s. I also suspect that any newer ATF will have a stronger detergent additive package than the 1950s ATF did. With everything now cleaned, run it a few times to get it hot (about a 30 mile drive, or so), then do a fluid removal/installation while it's still warm. Then see how things go. NTX5467 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
51dyno Posted January 4, 2019 Share Posted January 4, 2019 The tranny fluid back then was darker than todays fluid .If it did not smell burnt or was dark brown it was probably not overheated . At that age from sitting someone might have added 1-2 quarts of seal swell and that is what the Black stuff is from . If you have a tractor supply store buy the store brand GM fluid and drive about 1000 miles and Change again including converter .If the pan and screen is not filled with gunk , I would avoid the universal type and look for GM only . Don't leave the tranny empty so the seals dry up . Remember Dynos do not shift . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kestrel Posted January 4, 2019 Author Share Posted January 4, 2019 Greatly appreciate the advice. I have 8 qts of NAPA's DEX/MERC ATF fluid. It says it's recommended for pre-2006 GM cars requiring Dextron III Mercon fluid. It should be backwards compatible with these old Buicks. I read the early Type A ATF contained sperm whale oil. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted January 5, 2019 Share Posted January 5, 2019 13 hours ago, Kestrel said: I read the early Type A ATF contained sperm whale oil. That was another GM lube additive. Maybe Posi-Traction additive? The Type A fluid I remember seeing was pretty clear, not colored/dyed as the normal Dexron or other 1960s ATF was. A minor issue. Even the current Dexron VI is backward compatible to the first GM automatic in the '40s. But I believe a Dexron III equivalent would work just fine. NTX5467 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now