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Kestrel

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Everything posted by Kestrel

  1. I can't help you but I'm looking for the same advice as mine need replacing as well. Hopefully someone will chime in.
  2. According to the manual, they eliminate an unbalance between negative and positive charges as the wheel rotates, which otherwise would cause AM radio static. Something about a "corona effect" ? No expert here but I suspect it's some form of voodoo at work 😄
  3. I'm almost ashamed to admit it , but a few feet away on a shelf was my seldom used metal oil can with flexible spout as Rusty Heaps and other suggested. Why I didn't even think of using this, I can only attribute to advancing age. She worked like a charm, "easy peasy". I ended up using a zip tie as a dip stick. Who needs special GM tool "Shock absorber Gun KMO 1026 & Adapter J 1611" as the manual calls for ??? Thanks guys !!
  4. What apparatus do you guys use to add hydraulic oil to the rear shocks ? The filler hole is a tiny 3/8" . I've tried my smallest funnel, small diameter rubber hose in combination with a large syringe. Nothing fits but a small eye dropper. I'd be there all weekend if I went that route. I'm down about an inch from it's recommended level of 1/2" below filler opening. Thanks all.
  5. Rodney, I took mine apart after reading your post. I found the little spring with the contact point was weakened to the point it no longer made contact at the half way position on that resistance winding. I simply bent it back to increase the tension against the winding so it now makes full contact throughout its range. It worked. Could have saved $60.00. With my luck, it would weaken again and fail before too long. 🥵
  6. That's one of the first things I replaced on my '51. Great ideas from all here, but I took the easy way out. Ordered one from Old Buick Parts.com. Two years later all okay...no issues, fit fine. Gas Lines (3.158) 1940-1953 Gas line to pump hose. 1940-1952: All; 1953: Specials. GL403.................................................................$24.50 ea. 1
  7. Update on my problem. I pulled the tank, removed the sender and bench tested it’s resistance with my old Simpson 260 analog meter. I was able to duplicate the erratic dash gauge movement exactly by watching the needle (set to 1x ohm) begin to swing steady up, then jump to the far left then back again as I continued lifting the sender arm. Apparently there’s a short or open circuit inside the sender rheostat thing. I don’t know how a modern digital meter would show such behavior so clearly. For me anyway, electrical theory makes sense only after actually seeing something tangible happen. I'll test the new sender first, then install, with a back-up ground wire as suggested.
  8. Bob's Automobilia lists many sizes on their site. I believe that's where I bought mine. I had to slice one end of mine a little to slide on. Air Duct Hose 2-1/2" . AD-250 $12.00 Air Duct Hose 2-1/4"Inch AD-225 $10.95 Air Duct Hose 2-3/4 . AD-275 $13.50 Air Duct Hose 3" . AD-300 $13.25 QUICK VIEW Air Duct Hose 3-3/4 . AD-375 $13.25 Air Duct Hose 4" . AD-400 $13.50 Air Duct Hose 4-1/2" . AD-450 $14.25 Air Duct Hose 5" . AD-500 $15.25 Air Duct Hose 5-3/8" to 5-1/2" . AD-538 $16.50
  9. I'd drop the tranny pan and peek inside. Here's a before and after of my '51 Super Dynaflow's pan. She sat for several years (before I owned it.) Mileage was 28,500 and I believe to be correct. The thick black grud on the brass screen could be remnants of the original factory fluid. ☹️
  10. "gdmn852", Did your gauge give a steady accurate reading when the car was at rest, as mine does ? With the engine off but with the ignition on, if I simple push on the rear fender, up and down, it flutters. That creates the identical erratic movement when driving down the road. I clamped on a temporary ground wire from the sender pickup tube to the frame but it didn't change anything. You gotta love that access plate.
  11. Thanks guys. I'll try grounding the tank first with a dedicated wire and see what happens. I never looked, but I don't suppose Buick installed an inspection port in the trunk floor to easily access the sending unit mount. ?? On my '32 Chevy I added an extra ground wire to a nearby frame location, as you recommended. No issues thereafter.
  12. It seems whenever my fuel gauge needle drops below 1/2 tank, the needle begins an erratic dance, fluttering around nervously and intermittently pins over onto the full side reading for a second, before returning to the more accurate reading of between 1/4 and 1/2 (but still continues to flutter.) I can simulate the needle jumping around by pushing up and down hard on the rear fender with the car in park and idling in neutral. Gummed up sending unit ? When tank is full or about 1/2 full, she reads nice and steady. I don't want to drop the tank... just yet anyway. Any thoughts appreciated !
  13. CT DMV also says restored (technically altered) plates are a no-no. I found out the hard way with my '32 Chevy. I presented my restored plates first and they gave me a hard time. I should have showed them the original beaten up plates, then go home, restore them, and install on the car. Joe, my mother grew up in Ossining in the 1920s and complained of the lights dimming every time Sing Sing executed someone. ⚡⚡
  14. Autonut, If you can free it up with penetrant, great. But I had to remove the manifold, apply heat w/ a propane torch and repeatedly hit the shaft with a hammer drill to free it up (it took people) while spraying with Kroil penetrant. Finally it budged. The words "open" and "closed" are relative terms, easily confused, at least for me. No expert here but it looks like your is partially closed (for a cold engine). Before I bought the car, mine was frozen partly closed and caused the intake manifold chamber to crack open due to continuous excessive heat. 1rst photo show closed position (heat going into intake heat jacket). 2nd photo shows a fabricated steel plate welded in to repair and close off the cracks. Luckily I didn't need a new manifold. Mine is now fully closed when cold, then gradually opens (clockwise movement of weighted shaft) when warming up, diverting away exhaust heat, as designed. I suspect most people keep them wired open to keep exhaust heat out of intake manifold, since we mostly drive in warm weather. Bought the AC Delco stuff online and I obsessively lube the riser every 2-3 weeks.
  15. Does anyone know if under hood insulation was original on these early 50s Buicks ? If so, what color and shape, etc.? This is what was on mine. Looks like someone glued in a stock sheet of house insulation. It's ratty, falling down, and spilled out a few acorns the other day. I order a sheet of gray universal hood material from Old Buick Parts, thinking it would work, but have yet to receive it. Thanks guys !
  16. I've spoken with a friendly guy named Eddie at Steele. He helped me nail down the correct weatherstripping since there IS a difference between an early '51 and a late '51 kit. I was first sent the wrong lid piece but Eddie sent me the correct profile one immediately. That might be your problem. Maybe you need to go up or down a year for the right kit. Their web site's "Matching Vehicle" link is very helpful too.
  17. The Steele trunk kit I just installed on my '51 Super look very similar to your kit pieces from Steele. Mine came with 2 x 90 degree corner pieces that go on the body. There's one long piece for the trunk lid. I don't doubt there are differences but maybe these photos help. Their included instructions were mostly accurate. Always some "massaging" in these projects. Unfortunately, I had to remove the long trunk lid piece after gluing it down, then forced to re-position it so the trunk would close and seal. That black 3M adhesive is a royal mess to use and near impossible to remove !! HINT : Don't use it. I bought some 3M VHB (very high bond) double sided clear tape. I used that the 2nd time around. So far, it holds nice and gives you a 2nd chance to re-set the $$ weatherstripping. In fact, Steele sells "peel and stick" weatherstripping for later models.
  18. Al, Thanks so much ! Your photos and mark ups are just what I was looking for. 😄 There was so much extra glue residue on mine I couldn't ascertain where the rubber was supposed to go. I'll glue in the car body rubber section first, then position the lid rubber with tape temporarily and see if the trunk closes nice and tight. From your photo I see it has to be moved inward along the channel an inch or so from where I had it mocked up. Maybe because I'm new at this game, but it gets confusing with new rubber that has no wear pattern or creases from being compressed in the closed position.
  19. Update on my post. I see that 1951-53 Buicks used the same trunk weatherstripping, at least according to the Steele Rubber. I'd be much obliged if someone could snap a photo of their trunk lid rubber that shows how it lays in the lid's channel. This could become a real gooey mess if I don't get it right the first time. Also, thanks OldTank, butI found a very close match to my original trunk lid material (sound deafening) from Old Buick Parts.com. It's thinner but has the same waffle style pattern. Thanks guys !
  20. Has anyone replaced their woven trunk lid material and/or know of a vendor selling such a thing ? Mine is original and falling apart. It looks impossible to remove entirely as it appears permanently sandwiched between the inner and outer sheet metal, probably at the factory. I plan to cut out just the visible material and replace with something similar. Also does this new trunk lid weatherstripping (from Steele Rubber) look positioned correctly ? The original was badly distorted so not very helpful to compare with the new piece. Maybe someone can share a photo of theirs. Thanks guys !
  21. Yes, I had the exact problem. After 2-3 months with the engine fully drained of oil and sitting idle for 2-3 months, it took nigh on 20 minutes of running for the 2 front lifters to fill up and quiet down when I eventually re-started it . Gradually I could see all the rockers filling up with oil. I helped them by squirting oil around the lifters to insure proper lubrication. I have the 283 stock straight eight in my 51 Super. Patience was the solution.... at least this time.
  22. I can't really help except to add that my '51's hood tends to overlap and stick out where it joins both front doors and mine never has been hit. Looks kinda sloppy but it's factory correct I believe. I like your paint combo !!
  23. Old Tank, I had the same experience trying to follow the manual's 12-15 clicks after installing new shoes. That left the pedal down uncomfortably far so I left the adjustments at 6. I have a nice hard pedal now. The pedal is much higher but no issues after several hundred miles. Is that why they used to say 15-16 clicks, because the older asbestos shoes expanded a lot ??
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