Kestrel

Same here. All I ever added to my '51 was an overflow tank

Didn't know that. But I had a wooden dowel lying around and a 100+ year old spring scale that's probably never been calibrated since new. How often do we get to use woodworking skills in auto repairs ? 🍺 I did use the new vulcanized retainer and the drag seems correct w/o shims. John D, this photo is from the shop manual

It took about a month, but I finally reassembled and test drove the car today. I replaced 2 oil seals, gaskets, thrust pad, etc in the torque ball and propeller shaft area. The read end was entirely removed, painted, and reattached successfully. Happily no wheels fell off during a 5 mile test drive and she even stopped after bleeding all brakes. No leaks under the car as of this writing. Now I've read about rigorous Navy Seal Training but wondered if the above project might qualify for part of their training. Crawling underneath, back and forth, dozens of times a day certainly makes for a serious workout, regardless of age. 😀 You torque tube veterans know what I'm talking about. My best discovery was using a motorcycle jack to roll the rear end back in and line up the drive shaft to the tranny. It was kinda' fun...almost. If anyone has any questions while this operation is still fresh in my mind, fire away. I did the wooden peg thing to set the ball drag per the manual. Not very accurate this "period correct" procedure. In conclusion, does anyone see any harm in a slightly overfilled Dynaflow ? The dip stick shows a half inch over full mark now. Thanks guys !

Thanks Arctic. I'll give it a shot if nothing else comes along. Maybe since the original seals were leather and less resilient than rubber or neoprene, they required a more delicate procedure during installation. Just a guess...

I'm trying to reassemble the torque tube ball assembly onto the U-joint shaft bushing and have a new lip oil seal pressed into the torque ball. It doesn't want to slide over the shaft with hand pressure and I'm afraid to force it, thereby risking damaging the seal's lip. The shop manual says " Always use Installing Tool J2597 when installing torque ball to avoid damage to new seal." They show nice photos of the tool's ability to do this. The tool is a two part conical affair that expands the rubber seal evenly allowing the seal to then slide onto the shaft. Do you guys know of any work-a-round to coax the new seal over the U-joint ? I've seen $$$ installation tools on-line for professional types, but none for shade tree mechanics like me. Grease it up and push ? Hope for the best ? Thanks all. !!!

I'm finally ready to slide the rear end and torque tube back in the car with new seals, gaskets, etc. I've studied the book and older posts but still have questions. 1. The book says " Always use Installing Tool J2597 when installing torque ball to avoid damage to new seal." Okay, but what to you guys now use to coax the new seal over the U-joint ? It doesn't want to slide over the U-joint. I could simply press hard and hope it doesn't distort the lip seal on the way in. 2. Does this sequence look right in 2nd photo ? On the inner retainer, notch at top and holes at 12 and 6 o'clock position ? 3. Paper gasket only on end of torque ball, no seal in the recess in drive shaft flange ? 4. I don't trust the new rubber spline shaft seal too much so why not leave my torque tube "inspection port" open all the time to check for ATF leaking down into the rear end, before it wreaks havoc ? Make a sight glass ? Thanks all !!

I found a ground clearance of 7.76" at center of rear axle housing. Little late now to measure like you said. I'm inclined to just clean'em up and reinstall. Save any upgrade to another day...

Before I reinstall the torque ball assembly, I was going to clean up and paint the real springs since they're out of the car. But was wondering if there a test or measurement to see if they are within spec while out of the car ? No sense re-installing if they are tired and worn. Didn't see anything in the manual. I see plenty of replacement coil spring vendors out there. Not cheap either. I'd like a stiffer ride but don't want to overthink things either. The car doesn't list to either side unevenly or anything. Thoughts appreciated.... Thanks !!

Looking at it now, that does seem to make sense. THANKS !!

Now that my torque tube is separated from the tranny (recent post of 10-15), I removed the whole ball assembly and was shocked to see 2 distinct grooves in the tranny shaft sleeve where it slips over the torque tube shaft. Guys...please tell me this is by design and not evidence of really bad scoring . I noticed other machined grooves cut into the inner retainer (?) where the new oil seal will be pressed in. So maybe all is fine, the grooves have a purpose. Meanwhile I removed that foul spongy looking thrust pad. and have a new one waiting to go in. Thanks all !!

Success ! The rear coil springs came off surprisingly easy and did allow easy access to nurse the rear axle out with a floor jack. I had to balance the axle with 2 hand carts otherwise she was see-sawing, pivoting with just the floor jack. I did use ratchet straps with minimal force for the final coaxing. I'll probably leave the driveshaft where it is for now. I have the room to deal with the torque ball now. A remnant of a gasket was the only visible thing on the shaft. No spring, etc.as the book describes. Now I wait for parts to arrive. And don't laugh at my rear end removal system. It worked. Thanks guys ! 🍺

Okay. Sounds convincing. The '51 book says the (my series 50-70) LOWER spring bolts are left hand threads. I assume the uppers are right hand threads. If so, this is probably a very important first step. I just don't have much real estate in the garage to roll a rear end around in. Driveway is gravel.

4 times ? You're a seasoned veteran with great advice. I'll keep that option open for sure.

I'll keep an eye out for it 👀

Steve, Thanks for the tips. Yes, I ordered the propeller shaft seal kit from Fatsco in NJ. and a new thrust pad too. Bob's Automobilia had the rubber boot, flange gasket, and shims in case they're needed. My Quick Jack lift system has steel locking cams that take the load off the hydraulics when raised to a certain height. The lower right radius rod didn't want to come off today. After repeated blows, I put the hammer down and read something about removing the side support bracket in addition to the nut/bolt going through the rubber bushing. All great fun !

Appreciate the feedback ! I'm going to approach this job slowly and think hard before I go yanking on things. Funny how age does that. 4 jack stands supplement my Quick jack.

I need to replace my torque ball oil seal. ATF is sadly flowing out my "inspection hole". I've read many posts and watched videos but would still like advice from you seasoned experts. -Do you guys recommend complete disconnection of the rear end (rear springs,etc.) as the manual describes OR simply pull the rear end back enough with ratchet straps or something similar to expose and create room to work on the torque ball ? I'm ready to disconnect the cross bar, brake line, and emergency cable but would prefer not to unbolt the coil springs and around have the entire rear end out. With a floor jack under the differential, I could probably clear the gas tank if needed. Also, does this look like the newer replacement outer retainer that does not require shims ? I bought it 3 years ago predicting the demise of my original seal. Can't recall where I bought it. It came with no shims just 2 gaskets. New seal is on right. Thanks !!! ATF streaming out my "inspection port". Glad I decided to check it. No fluid into rear wheels at least.

Finally got around to dropping the pan on this seized '30 chevy "barn engine". I bought it for parts years ago. Mice built a nest inside the oil pan. Must be they crawled in through the oil fill hole. The rodent housing market must be hurting... low inventory.😀

If it's any consolation, I've purchased from Steele recently for front door weather stripping for my '51 Super Riviera. Yes, very expensive BUT it fits perfectly, no annoying 'massaging" to make it work that a less expensive product might require. High cost tends to be forgotten after it's all in.

I felt comfortable with just lap belts. bolted through the floor pan with large hefty backing plates, on my '51 Super 4dr hardtop. I wouldn't worry about shoulder restraints. Just be alert for idiots. Cinched down tight, I feel secure enough.

I've been enjoying my Quick Jack for over 2 years now. Very satisfied. Excellent for any under car work or sitting on a stool working on brakes, etc. I still place jack stands under each corner of the frame for safety. Sliding under from front or rear is facilitated by laying on flattened cardboard boxes and push with legs. Add a pillow, becomes a hide-a-way from wife.😀 When done, lower car and push the 2 lift frames in under center of car so wheels clear, then back her out.

It takes some strength for sure but I worry more about the rod that props up the hood failing while you're leaning over checking something. I wonder if anyone ever experienced such a mishap. Death by guillotine is not a pleasant thought.

Conclusion ! After a few hours of polishing away over 2 days with a felt wheel and cerium oxide, I'm done. Afraid to crack or distort the glass I stopped before risking collateral damage. The crack is definitely less severe with more muted, blurred margins , but still noticeable to the discerning eye, but I can live with it. I therefore deem the project over. My electric drill heated the glass up to 120 degrees at times along the crack. I prudently decided to cut my losses before it shattered or distorted. Masking off the door and everything else took almost longer than the polishing 😀 Thanks again for all the tips and guidance.

As I mentioned above, most of the scratch line does not catch my fingernail. So maybe I have a chance. Good tip to polish a wide area rather than concentrate on just the scratch. I don't whether to have a beer before or after the operation.

Thanks Leif for the tips. I have cerium oxide and some felt wheels coming so I'll give it a try. Good to know about the moisture. Being a passenger side window I don't worry about distortion too much. I'd attempt to yank the glass out and replace with new but, darn....I just re-installed my newly upholstered ($$$) door trim pad. To remove it and line up all those nails again while trying not to do any new damage makes me a nervous wreck. 😬