Jump to content

Kestrel

Members
  • Content Count

    204
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Kestrel

  1. CT DMV also says restored (technically altered) plates are a no-no. I found out the hard way with my '32 Chevy. I presented my restored plates first and they gave me a hard time. I should have showed them the original beaten up plates, then go home, restore them, and install on the car. Joe, my mother grew up in Ossining in the 1920s and complained of the lights dimming every time Sing Sing executed someone. โšกโšก
  2. Autonut, If you can free it up with penetrant, great. But I had to remove the manifold, apply heat w/ a propane torch and repeatedly hit the shaft with a hammer drill to free it up (it took people) while spraying with Kroil penetrant. Finally it budged. The words "open" and "closed" are relative terms, easily confused, at least for me. No expert here but it looks like your is partially closed (for a cold engine). Before I bought the car, mine was frozen partly closed and caused the intake manifold chamber to crack open due to continuous excessive heat.
  3. Does anyone know if under hood insulation was original on these early 50s Buicks ? If so, what color and shape, etc.? This is what was on mine. Looks like someone glued in a stock sheet of house insulation. It's ratty, falling down, and spilled out a few acorns the other day. I order a sheet of gray universal hood material from Old Buick Parts, thinking it would work, but have yet to receive it. Thanks guys !
  4. I've spoken with a friendly guy named Eddie at Steele. He helped me nail down the correct weatherstripping since there IS a difference between an early '51 and a late '51 kit. I was first sent the wrong lid piece but Eddie sent me the correct profile one immediately. That might be your problem. Maybe you need to go up or down a year for the right kit. Their web site's "Matching Vehicle" link is very helpful too.
  5. The Steele trunk kit I just installed on my '51 Super look very similar to your kit pieces from Steele. Mine came with 2 x 90 degree corner pieces that go on the body. There's one long piece for the trunk lid. I don't doubt there are differences but maybe these photos help. Their included instructions were mostly accurate. Always some "massaging" in these projects. Unfortunately, I had to remove the long trunk lid piece after gluing it down, then forced to re-position it so the trunk would close and seal. That black 3M adhesive is a royal mess to use and near impossible to remove !
  6. Al, Thanks so much ! Your photos and mark ups are just what I was looking for. ๐Ÿ˜„ There was so much extra glue residue on mine I couldn't ascertain where the rubber was supposed to go. I'll glue in the car body rubber section first, then position the lid rubber with tape temporarily and see if the trunk closes nice and tight. From your photo I see it has to be moved inward along the channel an inch or so from where I had it mocked up. Maybe because I'm new at this game, but it gets confusing with new rubber that has no wear pattern or creases from being compressed
  7. Update on my post. I see that 1951-53 Buicks used the same trunk weatherstripping, at least according to the Steele Rubber. I'd be much obliged if someone could snap a photo of their trunk lid rubber that shows how it lays in the lid's channel. This could become a real gooey mess if I don't get it right the first time. Also, thanks OldTank, butI found a very close match to my original trunk lid material (sound deafening) from Old Buick Parts.com. It's thinner but has the same waffle style pattern. Thanks guys !
  8. Has anyone replaced their woven trunk lid material and/or know of a vendor selling such a thing ? Mine is original and falling apart. It looks impossible to remove entirely as it appears permanently sandwiched between the inner and outer sheet metal, probably at the factory. I plan to cut out just the visible material and replace with something similar. Also does this new trunk lid weatherstripping (from Steele Rubber) look positioned correctly ? The original was badly distorted so not very helpful to compare with the new piece. Maybe someone can share a photo of theirs. Thanks g
  9. Yes, I had the exact problem. After 2-3 months with the engine fully drained of oil and sitting idle for 2-3 months, it took nigh on 20 minutes of running for the 2 front lifters to fill up and quiet down when I eventually re-started it . Gradually I could see all the rockers filling up with oil. I helped them by squirting oil around the lifters to insure proper lubrication. I have the 283 stock straight eight in my 51 Super. Patience was the solution.... at least this time.
  10. I can't really help except to add that my '51's hood tends to overlap and stick out where it joins both front doors and mine never has been hit. Looks kinda sloppy but it's factory correct I believe. I like your paint combo !!
  11. Old Tank, I had the same experience trying to follow the manual's 12-15 clicks after installing new shoes. That left the pedal down uncomfortably far so I left the adjustments at 6. I have a nice hard pedal now. The pedal is much higher but no issues after several hundred miles. Is that why they used to say 15-16 clicks, because the older asbestos shoes expanded a lot ??
  12. Thank you. Yes a '51 Super. Wife actually found the car, not me. A well cared for, low mileage (27,000) car that mainly needed heavy degreasing, undercarriage derusting and paint. New brake lines, cylinders, shoes, rear wheel bearings, core plugs, manifold resurfacing, and basic component cleaning, and engine detailing, new roof paint. Interior is original except for floor rugs I installed. No Dynaflow leaks or issues....so far. You'll get there. Enjoy the process.
  13. If you need headlight/parking light harnesses, Rhode Island Wiring www.riwire.com sells a nice repro set. The terminal blocks can be found through various venders. My originals were shot. Other than that, I replaced only what was needed, for now. Full harnesses are $$$.
  14. I simply click and drag a photo from my Photo app on my Mac directly into the reply field here that says "Drag files here..." No other steps needed and it seems to work. For some reason this photo of my rear torque tube's "tranny fluid inspection screw" is upside down. I drilled and tapped this today after reading how important it can be. No red or brown fluid ran out. The seals must be working. Yay !
  15. In legal terms it means a court has suspended someone's execution in the final hours. In your Buick' s case, your seller, his friend, and you saved it from the junkyard's crusher. ๐Ÿ˜Š
  16. As M1842 mentioned above, check out the Buick 1950 Buick Roadmaster series Part 21 through 24 You tube videos. They show in perfect detail what to expect when opening up the drivetrain, torque tube affair. The book can be confusing reading unless seen first, for me anyway. I have a 1951 Buick Super and am sure it is basically similar to the 1950 models. I'm waiting for a leak before I pull mine apart.
  17. Thanks old-tank. The shoes were professional re-lined and drums turned by a reputable shop that specializes in brake and suspension systems. I'll keep it adjusted to just where no drag exists and then go for some test drives.
  18. I have approx 200 miles on a new set of brake shoes and wanted to re-check all wheels for proper adjustment. I noticed it pulled to the right somewhat so I figured it's a good time to check especially the left front one. Tire pressure is even, alignment good. The shop manual says, after expanding each adjustment screw to create drag on each wheel, to "back off adjusting screw at each wheel 15 notches." . Well, I get them free of drag at about 6 notches. Question: Why the additional 9 notches (stars on the nut I assume) ? Wouldn't that result in unnecessary pedal trave
  19. Good information. I'll give it a try. I'd hate to discover a leak after all the bearing work and new brake shoes.
  20. Thanks Roadmaster_56. I replaced both rear wheel bearings , inside and out last year. The brakes were wet but I suspected it was from escaping differential gear oil caused by worn axle seals. Didn't know about the spline shaft seal, but all is dry now, no issues after a few hundred miles. Question: If the spline seal was leaking as well , wouldn't ATF fluid or a mix thereof, come pouring out the differential fill plug when removed ? I haven't checked it since the replacing the gear oil last year. Also, at what position did you install your " inspection tube" ? Bottom,
  21. Just curious here. How did you first notice the rear was filling up with tranny fluid ? Leakage around the differential cover, fluid oozing out rear axles onto drums ? Or just low reading on the dip stick. I was thinking of tapping in a short 3/8" pipe in the end of the torque tube to intermittently check for fluid passing the spline shaft as other owners here have suggested. Thank you !
  22. Neil, Did you look for any access holes in the frame's cross members ? My '51 Super straight 8 has 4 holes in the forward cross members, 2 per side, to allow access to the 4 forward pan bolts. I used a socket and extension like Daves1940 Buick5 described above. You can't see the bolts but can feel the socket grab 'em.
×
×
  • Create New...