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Door Latch Question ‘27 Buick


Crazyfamily

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Yep it’s me again!  

 

Ok so quesrions keep keep coming to mind that I want to ask advice on for the 1927 Buick “Bonnie”.

 

I can’t seem to latch one of my doors all the way, I securely latches on the first step of the jam but doesn’t catch on the inside step of the jam no matter what I do!

 

i see there is a screw on the stepped jam but when I turn the screw or just loosens the screw, do I need to shim it out from the back side?

 

whats the process to successfully adjust the jam/latch so it securely catches tightly!!?

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  • 2 weeks later...

No the screw tightens fine, the wood and car are solid.  I just don’t know how the stepped door jam part where the door  latch meets this stepped jam section adjusts so I can get the doors to latch onto the tightest position.

 

anyine else have a door that would only latch on the first notch of the stepped jam and find a way to adjust it so it latches tight in the tightest position?

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Your latch could be worn on the end which could cause it not to catch on the second level of the striker.  Something to try is to take the striker off and try a thin shim (perhaps wood or a double layer of "friction tape") between it and the door post.

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First of all you have to determine whats wrong because I'll bet that it use to latch properly (perhaps 91 years ago) When you close the door is the gap between the door and the pillar consistent top to bottom? 1/4" makes a difference. If the door touches at either the top or bottom the door needs tweaking. If it touches at the latch you may have to move the latch.

You say your wood is good but remember it's 91 years old and wood is not the most stable material.   

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The rubber bumpers are to cushion the door and to avoid squeaks. The problem is that they are probably petrified as the ones on my 1925 cars were. Hugh and I have made new ones and they work great. These sedan door bumpers are probably available from Steel Rubber. 

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2 hours ago, dibarlaw said:

The rubber bumpers are to cushion the door and to avoid squeaks. The problem is that they are probably petrified as the ones on my 1925 cars were. Hugh and I have made new ones and they work great. These sedan door bumpers are probably available from Steel Rubber. 

 

Do they adjust in any way?

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www.zoro.com Rubber for making trapazoid shaped door Bump stops -  Correct soft rubber.   30A Neoprene, ¾” thick x 2” wide x 36” long     search part  number “6030-3/4x” or G1430274

I also found these that you can order from Australia.
http://www.oldera.com.au/door-buff-block-all-gm-to-1925-28/

They also sell the rubber and metal pieces that the door dovetail slides into (door striker).  (Bobs Automobilia sells these too)

http://www.oldera.com.au/door-striker-block-cap-all-gm-to-1928/

 

Hugh

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Hugh:

 Sedan doors are somewhat  different from our open cars.. I believe BOB's Automobilia may have what you need. Page 101 in Volume #63    2017-2018 Door Parts

1926-1933 Closed car Door Jamb Bumper 1"X1 1/8".

1926-1933 Closed car Door Jamb Bumper  1 1/4"X1 1/8" (May be for different series cars as I do not have reference to closed car parts books.) Check what you have.

Closed Car Dovetail Rubber Bumper

Also a 1926-1940 Upper center door post self holding bumper. (I need 4 for my 1937 Special sedan.)

As Hugh has indicated some of these can be fabricated from the rubber he mentions. The "SQUISH" is perfect!

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Start with replacing the rubber cushions first.  You should be able to compress them some.  If they do not move, they need to go.  If you don't want to replace them yourself, then you can take it somewhere but take all the parts with you if you want to keep the cost down.  Adjusting the door with hard rubber in it is a waste of time.  You may not need to adjust the doors if the rubber is soft and installed correctly.   

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