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Water pump packing


Mars

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Undo the packing nut and remove the remains of any packing there now. Make sure the shaft is smooth. If it is not smooth, nothing will seal.

 

Put three circumferences (individual pieces) in and do the nut up again. Put some petrolatum grease on the graphite rope to reduce the possibility of galvanic corrosion between the graphite and the steel shaft. Petrolatum is petroleum based but does not contain corrosive substances like molybdenum disulphide (and the anti-corrosives required to control it!). It will be hard work getting the nut on so take care not to cross thread it. You might find it useful to put the nut on and compress each ring of packing before putting the next one on. Again, make sure there is some protection for the shaft from the graphite if it dries out.

Edited by Spinneyhill (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...
3 hours ago, ckowner said:

I was under the impression that the occasional drip from the water pump shaft was intended as some lubrication.

 

Yes. It can be an extremely slow drip if you like, maybe a drop every few minutes. Without that, the packing (and possibly the shaft) might burn up in a hurry.

 

The nut gets tightened a notch or two every now and then to keep the leakage down to a reasonably small drip. When it leaks too much and the nut wont go any further, it is time for new packing.

Edited by Bloo (see edit history)
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The packing is lubricated to provide the lubricant. That is why I said to put some petrolatum grease on the packing. If you use graphite rope, periodically it is beneficial to remove and lubricate and repack. There should be no leakage - it would indicate water on the shaft and that would promote rust, esp. if you are using graphite packing. I am using PTFE rope which some say is no good; mine is well lubricated. But when the car sat for 10 years, the lubricated dried and the shaft rusted.

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