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Rear quarter window mohair strip


Beemon

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For the end fold over use aviation snips to cut a 90 deg notch and, well, fold it over. The rest is just bent by hand and eye. Final adjustment made when installed. Easy peasy. Everything should be so hard...... Bob

 

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 okay, so I've got a few more questions. I'm really on the fence about going all out on the mohair because it seems a little more involved than I had previously thought. 

 

On the vent window channel, how does the upper channel separate from the vent window? I see the lower channel is riveted in, that should be pretty easy. There's a rubber gasket that goes under the vent window, does anyone supply this gasket? Looks to be pooped into place. 

 

The mohair that goes into the upper roof channel from front to back, what's a good way to replace that? 

 

I should mention, my mohair isn't bad but it isn't good and I'm considering leaving this to a professional shop since I don't have the tooling to replace some parts it seems. I also do not own a heavy duty stapler. 

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I can tell you what I did in lieu of staples. I used small pop rivets. To prevent the drill from grabbing and twisting the mohair use a red hot rod the size of the rivet head to melt a depression in the mohair. Drill the hole. The head of the rivet will "disappear" into the depression when installed. Use black rivets or paint the heads flat black. That's what I did and my cars have "passed" judges scrutiny from concours to grand nationals with out a point default. Everything should be so hard.............Bob 

Edited by Bhigdog (see edit history)
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6 hours ago, Beemon said:

okay, so I've got a few more questions. I'm really on the fence about going all out on the mohair because it seems a little more involved than I had previously thought. 

 

Nope. Easy peasy..............Bob

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 okay, so how do you go about separating the upper division channel from the vent window and lining the anti theft channel with new mohair? 

 

The anti theft channel and the channel that sweeps down to the rear are in decent enough shape I can get by without messing with but the vent window I'm having difficulty with. 

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9 hours ago, Beemon said:

On the vent window channel, how does the upper channel separate from the vent window? I see the lower channel is riveted in, that should be pretty easy.

 

There is a small screw that secures the upper channel to the frame at the very top.

9 hours ago, Beemon said:

There's a rubber gasket that goes under the vent window, does anyone supply this gasket? Looks to be pooped into place. 

 

 

It was not available when I did my cars. You can try Steele.

2 hours ago, Beemon said:

okay, so how do you go about separating the upper division channel from the vent window and lining the anti theft channel with new mohair? 

 

 

Not sure what you mean here by anti theft channel. Never heard that term before. The channel that runs from top to bottom is held by a screw on top and 2 rivets mid section. The chrome lipped fuzzy is pressed into the channel with a bead of rubber sealer in the channel. I've seen the fuzzy both in one continuous length or split upper/lower. If you wish a small pop rivet or two can be used too, as described in above post.

You might as well replace the window gasket. Steele's fit good..............................Bob

Edited by Bhigdog (see edit history)
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Anti theft.. flipper thing on 2 door hard tops that open when the door opens and closes with the door closed. They look to be a strip without the stainless bead but I'm not sure. 

 

Vent window gaskets are being replaced, as well as the rubber strip on the rear quarter window. 

 

Thank you Bhigdog for the information, greatly appreciated! 

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25 minutes ago, Beemon said:

Vent window gaskets are being replaced, as well as the rubber strip on the rear quarter window. 

 

Windex will be your friend here. If you are tempted to use silicone spray smack your self soundly in the back of your head......................Bob

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1 hour ago, Beemon said:

Anti theft.. flipper thing on 2 door hard tops that open when the door opens and closes with the door closed. They look to be a strip without the stainless bead but I'm not sure. 

 

 

I think they are best left alone................Bob

Edited by Bhigdog (see edit history)
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If replacing the fuzzys the staples need to be removed in any case. Easiest way is to use your Dremal with a cut off wheel and cut the legs then just pull off the old fuzzy.

If you plan to use the old staple holes the problem is putting the matching holes in the new fuzzy. Doable but tedious and pulling the fuzzy tight as the original staples did is problematic..................................Bob

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Thanks for the replies. I've already broken off all the staples by twisting them until they broke. I like the rivet idea and I'll most likely go that route since I'll have to rivet the division channel back into place. 

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23 minutes ago, Beemon said:

Thanks for the replies. I've already broken off all the staples by twisting them until they broke. I like the rivet idea and I'll most likely go that route since I'll have to rivet the division channel back into place. 

 

Always another way to skin the cat, Eh? I never even thought of the twist off method but then I'm kind of spring loaded to the abrasive cut off position.......Bob

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