Follow up question on 26 DB water pump rebuild

[Wheelmang]

I am taking the recommendation of some and am going ahead with seals (after finally finding a few) instead of packing material for the water pump rebuild. So a couple of questions. 

- what direction do you position the lip on the seal. My presumption is always facing inward.

- when re-installing the original packing retention nuts, do you not reinstall the metal packing ring? (probably the wrong terminology on that component) 

- does the pump just use a general purpose grease for the one grease fitting. Everything else appears to be self lube from the engine oil. 

Thank all for your guidance!

Paul

[cahartley]

In theory the seal lip faces inward.

In practice it doesn't much matter.

I would do everything I can (and have) to retain the function of the original packing mechanism however.

It might worth mentioning the packings also act as an additional bearing.

Modern shaft seals won't work on a shaft that's less than nearly perfect.

I would leave the lantern ring (if there is one) on the shaft and reinstall the packing nut as well.

Should the pump develop a slight leak down the road you can still pack it without having to resort to removing the pump.

[MikeC5]

Hi Paul,

 

I put them in with the spring towards the inside of pump and also did put the packing ring (lantern ring).  If you do put double seals in there may not be room for the packing ring though.  I bought some waterproof grease at a marine supply store.

[Wheelmang]

Thanks both for confirming your practices. It looked like space was going to be tight with the seal but makes sense to use both. I like the idea of the insurance of two types of sealing. The shaft has minimal wear on the bearing surfaces at .6235 being the worst. By the time you add the thickness of lubricant clearance is pretty good.

[Spinneyhill]

The shaft must also be un-marred for the seal to work, i.e. no pits. If there are pits, polish it first. Start with say 180 grit carborundum tape held on a file with the shaft rotating (e.g. drill press, lathe...). Then make sure it is not too small for the seal!

 

What is the difference between a water proof grease and a chassis grease? All grease is "water proof", surely? Maybe it means a stiffer grease that is not so easily washed out by water pressure?

 

Remember to lubricate the shaft and seals when you put it together. Thinking further, the second seal will wear out fairly quickly as there is no way for lubricant to get to it?

[dwollam]

One should use "Water PUMP" grease. Any Model A Ford supplier carriers it.

 

[MikeC5]

Good question.  One would think any grease isn't going to mix with water...  It was a different color 

[Wheelmang]

I found on tear down of this pump what may be the result of improper grease. There was a semi hard yellowish residue on some of the gears and inside the housing for the drive gears for the distributor and water pump shaft. When I first saw it I was afraid it was water in the oil but then remembered there was no evidence of water when I dropped the oil pan months ago. It felt quite slippery when I rubbed it between thumb and finger and actually dissolved slightly. Maybe the wrong kind of grease working it's way into the chamber?    

[Spinneyhill]

Old grease. Dried out. Had a lot of clay in it. Clay consists of platy particles so can act as a lubricant. But it also absorbs water when the volatile oils in the grease dry out.