1939 Engine Mount Alternatives

[JRHaelig]

I eagerly applied the last work-around offered from the group (1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee clutch bolts right in!)

 

Now I see that my front engine mounts are dissolved.

 

At $165 a pair for re-building I would love to hear that somebody out there has discovered that the $50 mounts from a such-and-such work just fine.

 

Has anyone blazed this particular trail?

 

Many thanks........

[Anzac Buick64]

Hi there

Sorry to say but i ended up going down the re vulcanisation path. From memory i think engine mounts are another 1 year only on the 39. You may just have to bite the bullet and do this. I Looked for a better alternative 2 years back and could not find it. I think both Bobs Automobilia and maybe Steele Rubber offer  re vulcanisation but there maybe some one closer to you and maybe cheaper.

Cheers

Andrew

[JRHaelig]

Well - I'm going to poke around a bit.

 

Can anybody tell me how tall a new mount is?

 

I see that the engine foot actually bolts via a 90 degree "ear" on the mount with a separate vertical stud from the mount through the frame.

 

I wonder how difficult it would be to drill a hole in the engine foot to get a straight-through biscuit mount like a Ford Flathead mount.

[39BuickEight]

If you not in a huge hurry I can see what I have off my parts car.  I don't keep it at my house, so it may be a week or 2.  It had some sort of "other" engine mounts that were different than the original ones-at least on the front anyway.

[1939_Buick]

I need 1 1939 series 40 front engine mount, having donated a pair from one of my cars to Anzac Buick64 (Andrew) to use to re vulcanise The pair from my car were not 100% original as some rubber had been roughly glued in. The pair in Andrew's car were a long way from original.  Did find 1 only in my collection of parts, so still need 1 more.

 

 

 

Edited June 4, 2017 by 1939_Buick
added image (see edit history)

[Bob H]

JRHaelig: 1939 Buick's engine alignment in the frame is critical to the proper operation of the torque ball joint used in the drive shaft. Shop manuals and others on this forum are helpful in tackling this problem. I have attached  a couple of photos showing the adjustment shims needed to line up my engine properly. Roughly, the front mount height controls vertical or up and down adjustment of the torque ball and the rear mounts control lateral or left-right adjustment. Bob H

[Dynaflash8]

The 1940 looks the same, except it has two holes.  They could be welded shut and one hole drilled I suppose.  However, I don't know if the height is the same.  When I get back to my winter residence I think I have plenty of cores in the garage.  I have some NOS, but  those and the torque ball mounts and the rubber covered torque balls I have are simply not for sale at any price.  Since I'll be 79 in October, maybe just wait around another five or ten years.

[Dynaflash8]

Bob H, that's one wonderful chassis and engine restoration you're showing in those pictures.

[Dynaflash8]

Somebody in this thread mentioned the height of the front motor mounts being critical.  That brought something to mind. When I rebuilt my engine in the blue car in 1965 I could not find front motor mounts.  So I went to a rubber place and had them cut out the rubber and glue it to the metal parts.  For years after the engine was rebuilt I had a vibration at about 50 mph.  I tried everything....you know, clutch, moving clutch bolts, torque ball mounts, driveshaft alignment, on and on.  Nothing worked.  As the years went by I found NOS mounts.  Finally in some repair and update work, I discovered one of the glued pieces and come loose from the rubber.  So, I installed a new pair of NOS mounts.  By this time I was used to the vibration.  As time went by, I came to realize the vibration was gone.  I think maybe, now that somebody has mentioned it here, that changing the mounts may have fixed the problem and I didn't even realize it.