Barney Eaton Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 I had a call from a Reatta owner that cannot find the front sway bar bushing for his 1991. He said everything he has found is not wide enough....he said virtually all he found were made by Ramcor and their part number is HP-766 and they are narrow and seem to be taller than the originals Anyone have input? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted January 13, 2017 Author Share Posted January 13, 2017 The owner looking for the bushings says he has already tried rockauto, and many auto parts stores and they are all the one made by Ramco and are about 1 1/2 inches between the raised edge and need to be 1 7/8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 (edited) He contacted me as well about the sway bar bushings. I couldn't help him with bushings the width he needed. Seems to me the easy thing to do would be to get some different brackets that would fit the standard 21mm diameter bar bushings that are readily available. Edited January 13, 2017 by Ronnie (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted January 13, 2017 Author Share Posted January 13, 2017 All I know is this guy has done a bunch or research and purchased bushings from both Rockauto and local auto parts stores and none are like the originals, he mentioned that this Ramco is the manufacturer and Delco, Moog, Mas are all selling the same part with the Ramco HP-766 number molded on the inside of the hole, you can see it in some of the Rockauto photos. We all know that people on Ebay are selling parts daily with the statement "fits Buick Reatta" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 1 hour ago, 89RedDarkGrey said: Has he measured the bar diameter? Is there a "standard" amount for all 4 years of Reatta production? AFAIK the bushings are only measured by the diameter of the bar- not by the clamping strap. When I said "standard" I meant the standard bushing for a 21mm sway bar. When he emailed me he told me he had a 21mm bar. I consider this bushing to be the standard ACDelco bushing for a 21mm bar. It is supposed to fit all years with a 21mm sway bar. I'm no expert on this stuff so I don't know that for sure. He wanted me to measure the width of each bushing listed and supply him with information on who manufactured them. I told him I didn't have them on hand to measure and that was the last I heard from him. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted January 14, 2017 Author Share Posted January 14, 2017 (edited) The size of the sway bar is not the issue...he needs a 21mm and that is what he is getting. The problem is the aftermarket bushings do not fit the mounting bracket....the groove "X" is not as wide as the factory bracket, so when he tries to mount them the bracket does not fit into the groove or recess between the ends, so when you start to mount them one end wants to drop in the groove and then the bushing is recessed on one side and sticking out on the other. Like you I can look at different web sites and see the parts but until you get them in your hands and try to install them you must take the word of the sellers that they are made for your car. I was hoping someone had actually purchased and installed something that works. I am just trying to help a Reatta owner solve a problem that he has actually spent some time trying to resolve on his own...without success. Edited January 14, 2017 by Barney Eaton (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 (edited) I have a takeout bushing and a new one for my '90 in my spare parts bin. The used and somewhat worn one is almost exactly 1.5" between the raised "flanges". The brand new one is slightly narrower, closer to 1.375" on the flat between the flanges, and it was purchased many years ago from a GM dealer, If memory serves, they are a very tight fit and are designed to flatten and extrude as they are clamped. The description of the parts sounds correct, at least for mine? I would guess at least the '90 and '91 would be similar as they use the same mini tie rod style end links but maybe not? My car is in storage but I would swear the bar is bigger diameter than 21mm? Edited January 14, 2017 by 2seater (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 (edited) I jotted down the multiple part numbers embossed on the new insulator and looked at GM Parts Giant and GM Parts Direct to see if I could find any additional information. There are three numbers listed all beginning 354: 5376 blue, 5378 white and 5380 orange. The colors appear to be a paint streak across the numbers, likely to make it easy for the parts guys to locate easily? The new insulator I have appears to have the white stripe on it and is for a small diameter bar, approx. 3/4" opening, and is likely why it is still laying around, it's too small for mine Looking up those numbers show 5376 blue to be for some other GM model but 5378 white is for the 90-91 Reatta as well as 5380 orange. Clicking on details only brings up the same year Toronado, which is also an E-body, but 3545378 is standard suspension and 3545380 is sport suspension (F41??) I don't know if this will help, as bar diameters are not listed but that info. is likely out there somewhere. Doing a little research shows all sorts of conflicting information on the web. 21mm, 29mm and 31mm, the last two sound about right. Is that 21mm on a convertible by chance? It seems pretty small. Edited January 14, 2017 by 2seater (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 Agreed on the 21mm sounding more like the rear bar diameter, but it was definitely listed as for the front. Of course that doesn't mean it is correct. Take a look at what is listed for 3800 rocker arms sometime. They show the old shaft mount stuff for the 3.8, so bad info. abounds. The new bushing does have a saddle appearance with raised flanges on each side, and my experience shows the wear to be on the interior where the hole gets egg shaped, sometimes bad enough the bar contacts the frame causing a knocking sound. I thought all Reatta's had heavy duty suspension, F41? and maybe Barney can confirm? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 I would agree that a 21mm for the rear and a 31mm for the front would make sense even though the 21mm is listed as "front to frame" anywhere you see it listed. The problem with that is when you search for "stabilizer bar bushing" on RockAuto or the other major parts websites they list 19mm, 21mm, 28mm, 29mm and 31mm all as being " Front to Frame". Very confusing. Adding to the confusion, apparently there is a difference in the width of the mounting brackets as well. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted January 16, 2017 Share Posted January 16, 2017 I searched through my old receipts and found the original part number for the ones I purchased way back when: 3540944. These were purchased from VanDeVeere Buick in Ohio from a parts guy, Dallas Slabaugh. This was 20ish years ago. The part shows up as discontinued on most common sites except one: oemautopartsand accessories.com The price is way lower, like $5.64 ea, so I don't know about the quality? This a link to an old forum discussion with part numbers for the clamps as well as the bushings: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fox W. Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 (edited) Just making a post about the front sway bar end-links. I got the 545-1015 Raybestos Pro ones listed on the Reatta store, and just wanted to show they are a bit longer than the original. That being both the bolts as well as the spacer. I'm trying to picture, would this make it more or less stiff? Does it pre-load the bar more or less by increasing the length? It would cause the bar to be torqued downward less. Edited March 18, 2017 by Fox W. (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordrodsteven Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 (edited) well now there's two different things going on here in this post. First of all regarding the OP and the bushings. I have found in my experience that the bushings are usually a little bit narrow and push into place. They work just fine as long as they are the proper diameter. The only other thing is that the OP could, if he had the inclination to do it, grind a little bit off the sides of the clamp to make it slide together easier. The bushings are more designed as a "holding" point. They don't make the bar flex any more or less. The "anti" sway effect is the bar "flexing" from end to end. When the suspension lifts on one side and lowers on the other during hard cornering the bar "flexes". Therefore the second question about the length of the links being an issue is a moot point. The length of the link just positions the end of the bar a little higher or lower. The bar will still "flex" due to forces at each end and it will still be held the same at the bushings at the mounting bracket. If you want a stiffer (more anti-sway) suspension you put on a larger diameter bar. If you want it more flexible (softer) you put on a smaller diameter bar. I'm not a suspension engineer but I do understand how metal moves when under different forces. The concept is similar to the old torsion bar suspension on Chrysler products. I'm remembering specifically changing out the torsion bars on my '66 Dodge Charger. Of course you must keep in mind that if you want to enter your car in a car show and be judged you could lose points because it is not "as original". Me.... I don't care because I don't enter shows for points. Edited March 18, 2017 by fordrodsteven (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordrodsteven Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 (edited) I don't mean to be argumentative but... I honestly don't think the length of the links makes much of a difference. They need to be somewhere near the correct length for the bushings to fit into the hole and seat properly due to the angle that is set at the end on the sway bar. But I know I can undo the links at both ends and I can swing the bar up and down. The mounting points (bushings & brackets) will allow the bar to pivot. I still maintain that the effect on the ride is mainly due to the bar flexing end to end. That is why they sell sway bars of different diameters for cars. I know when I bought my 2011 Charger with the "high performance" suspension. One thing that was quoted was larger diameter sway bars. After all if the bushings were the determining factor they would only change out the bushings rather than the whole bar. I have voiced my opinion and am now moving on. Edited March 18, 2017 by fordrodsteven (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordrodsteven Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 8 hours ago, Fox W. said: Just making a post about the front sway bar end-links. I got the 545-1015 Raybestos Pro ones listed on the Reatta store, and just wanted to show they are a bit longer than the original. That being both the bolts as well as the spacer. I'm trying to picture, would this make it more or less stiff? Does it pre-load the bar more or less by increasing the length? It would cause the bar to be torqued downward less. 8 hours ago, Fox W. said: Just making a post about the front sway bar end-links. I got the 545-1015 Raybestos Pro ones listed on the Reatta store, and just wanted to show they are a bit longer than the original. That being both the bolts as well as the spacer. I'm trying to picture, would this make it more or less stiff? Does it pre-load the bar more or less by increasing the length? It would cause the bar to be torqued downward less. In looking at the pictures... It looks to me like the inner dimension (two inner bushings and the spacer) are the same as the originals. It would make absolutely no difference in fitment or handling. The extra length of the links appears to be the outer bushings and the overall length of the threaded shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 I agree that in general the stiffness is based on the bar diameter. If there is a substantial difference in the end links causing the bar to be at an angle, rather than at approx. 90* to the applied force, I would think it would change the effectiveness. I would think, if the bar is slightly high under no load, and it approaches 90* under load, it might be somewhat more effective, and the reverse would make it less effective. The end travels in an arc after all. JMO 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fox W. Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 It's hard to tell based on that one picture, but the new spacers are longer than the original. I could give measurements if you'd like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fox W. Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Just finished changing all bushings for front-sway bar. Harder than I am used to.. but then again what I am used to it mostly a Miata. On the Miata, everything is just daintier to work with. I've change my springs, mounts, struts and sway bars on it and everything just came off/on withe ease. The Reatta suspension however, some things feel like they may as well have just welded it together.. it's heavy-duty, harder to get in or out. This isn't a complaint however, It's just a heavy car.. I am impressed with how tight that front sway bar has to get torqued down. The bolts that hold the inner bushings (the ones going around the bar) will at first seem like it's an impossible fit. The bracket and bolts start very high, and you have to torque it down quite a ways as it forms/squishes the bushing. The end-links won't reach at first.. You really gotta play with it all for a long time.. mainly in my case I have my front jacked up, wheels off, and I had to use a bottle-jack to raise the control arm quite high and hit the top of the end-link bolt to try and get enough through at the bottom in order to thread the nut on. Was not easy. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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