A question about older (50s) key blanks

[Brandon Todd]

Hello, 

I am needed to get a couple new keys made for the 57 Buick. I only have one key and i'd be in a lot of trouble if I lost it. 

 

I know online i can get the original looking keys very cheap. However, I've seen some Buick keys that look really neat, gold plated with emblems and such. The problem is I do not know if I'd be able to buy just any blank key for that car and make it work. I know in the 60s GM started stamping letters on keys so they match certain years. But .I cannot find anywhere which will work for an older car like mine.

 

If I have to buy the normal, original-looking kind that is alright, I would just like to get a less boring one if possible. 

 

Thanks!

[Bill Stoneberg]

Check out Jesser's Classic Keys.  You should be able to find something to suit your needs there.

 

http://www.jessersclassickeys.com

[Brandon Todd]

11 minutes ago, Bill Stoneberg said:

Check out Jesser's Classic Keys.  You should be able to find something to suit your needs there.

 

http://www.jessersclassickeys.com

Thank you Bill, I just found the information that I need!!! I appreciate the help!!

[Beemon]

McLendon Hardware store is where I got my new keys. 

[NTX5467]

In the prior Briggs&Stratton key days, there were four key blanks, designated by "A",  "B", "C", and "D".  These SAME key blanks were used in later years, but without the octagonal Briggs key head.  The "shank" of the key is the same, though, but a little thinner than the earlier blanks.

 

On the "shank", where the key cuts are, the different blanks are distinguished by the width and spacing of the longitudinal slots in them.  These slots MUST match the corresponding "tangs" inside of the key cylinder.

 

As Beemon illustrates, the modern keys will work in the earlier key cylinders, EXCEPT of they might interfere with the ignition cylinder's "wings". 

 

As I learned from my '68 Buick chassis service manual, there are 5 key cut depths on the key.  In some years, the "no cut" level is a "1", with the deepest one being a "5" (which just barely gets into the main width of the shank).  In later vehicles, the cuts are "0" to "4".  Same depths as the other cuts, just a different designation of the cut depths.  Once you can "see" the depths, it's easy to duplicate the key cuts on a new blank with a cutter (rather than a grinder wheel).

 

IF you have an existing key with some wear on it, it would be best to get it duplicated in a hand cutter as this should make the new key have NEW cut levels, rather than a new key with "worn" cut levels.

 

Inside of the cylinder, there are spring-loaded "tumblers", with corresponding numbers (to match the key cut depths).  They are light brass and can have some wear on them, too.  Usually, it's the key that wears.  MUCH better to get the original key re-cut than to use it until it might have so much wear on the shank that it breaks-off in the cylinder!

 

In some of the 1950s service manuals, they also gave specific depth ranges for each cut, so you could use a micrometer and a file.  The old "hand cutter" had a metal wheel with the cut slots in it, into which a wire was placed to regulate the depth of the cut.  The later (and more current) hand cutter will work the same.  Similarly, one of the newer "numeric control" computerized cutters can do the same, IF you know the cut depths and positions.  Five cut locations, five cut depths (for the 5-cut keys, as compared to the 10-cut keys we now have).

 

Seems like the "A" blank was an ignition blank and the "C" blank was a door/trunk/glove box blank?  "B" and "D" were similar. 

 

As mentioned, you can still get the original octagonal-head blanks from several places.  The 1970s versions will work fine, but might need some "trimming" of the blank's head so it'll insert completely into the cylinder and wings.

 

The gold keys could be had from GM in earlier times (especially for Cadillacs), but the gold keys for other carlines were generally sourced from aftermarket vendors.

 

Other than locksmiths, GM dealers can cut keys PROVIDED you have an old one to match.  Current availability of codes is usually at about 1985 or so, for getting codes out of the GM database (getting them has a NUMBER of things which must happen BEFORE the request for the code from GM can be made!!!.  In prior times, the code for the particular cylinder was stamped onto the side of the cylinder, but then you'll need an old paper "code book" to decipher the codes into "cut codes".  The unfortunate fact is that few dealers kept the old code books (earlier ones or the later ones) when the computerized cutters came online in the 1990s.  Still, though, as GM generally only supplies "bare cylinders", uncoded, in many cases, there will usually be somebody in the particular parts department who has experience in "building key cylinders" from the uncoded cylinders supplied by GM into a cylinder which can be installed into a vehicle.  The charges to do such can vary widely!  Some might desire that a locksmith do that for the customer, too.

 

I discovered that the newer keys would work in the place of the prior Briggs key blanks "by discovery".  Once I did, it was no problem to do it with the hand cutter I used for the newer blanks.  With, of course, the knowledge that the base of the head might need some trimming to fit inside of the ignition cylinder's wings on 1950s-60s GM cars.

 

I suspect that Chrysler and Ford keys are similar (depths of cut codes and key head shapes), but have unique key blanks.

 

NTX5467   

[Beemon]

It cost me about $5 per key. They took my original key and put it into their computer and let the computer make the measurements on thickness and depth of the teeth. Then they put the blank in and cut it. This key is a little longer than the original and has no problem clearing the ring of the ignition cylinder. The blank was a little thicker than the original, you can see where they shaved the side of the blank to the correct thickness. 

[Bill Stoneberg]

Beemon,  The point is Brandon was looking for something special.  Not just your run of the mill key.

Edited September 19, 2016 by Bill Stoneberg (see edit history)

[Brandon Todd]

Thanks for the replies! yeah, like on ebay they have old key blanks like this one. can i just buy it and have them make it into a copy of my original key? or do i HAVE to have a certain type?

 

 

[buick5563]

I have one of those for my 55 wagon. I didn't ask beforehand. It just worked .  

[NTX5467]

IF the slots in the key shank do NOT match those of the key cylinder, it will not slide into the cylinder.  Might well be that the key blanks were model-year-specific as they can be in the more recent model years.

 

Buy it "un-cut" so that if it doesn't go into your key cylinder, it can be returned. 

 

NTX5467

[buick5563]

Marked A, B10 and C

All exactly the same profile. Some are longer.

My tri-shield key is out in the garage or I would show that one, as well.

That key (that you have pictured AND want to purchase) WILL work.

 

[buick man]

… a few years ago, I bought an unique original antique embossed keys that was made in the late fifties.  Had the locksmith cut it for me.  However, he was busy that day so he asked his young assistant to do it.  The kid inserted the the blank into the cutting block and did not set it properly.  The result was a cut that had a tip of the key too short.  It works in the lock but one has to press and wiggle it to work.  Ruined an otherwise neat rare original key…  So beware and astute as I will not make that mistake again …