64Rivvy Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 I'm having a problem with my sail panel lights working intermittently. I've taken out the lights, cleaned them, and checked all the housings and wires. I used a voltmeter to verify there is current coming into both sail panel lights. I have the classic car wiring diagram and have checked the service manuals and can't figure it out. I did notice that the lights did seem to magically work a few times when I was sitting in the back seat on the driver's side. Then I would move and they would stop working. I know there's a ribbon cable running under the seat. Could it be getting pinched somewhere or maybe a loose ground down there somewhere? Figured I would see if anything else has had a similar problem before I start pulling out the seas and disconnecting things. Also, I know in many cases the door jam switches are the culprit. The driver's side seems to work and I also took each wire off and grounded one by one to eliminate a bad switch. The Pass side door jamb switch is not working at all. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Curran Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 The sail panel lights are controlled by turning the headlight switch in addition to automatically illuminating when the doors are opened. As you stated, usually the problem is with the door jamb switch. I had an issue with my 65 and found a wire under the dash that had worn its coating off by rubbing against a piece of metal over the years. I fixed this and they were fine after that. You could have a bad connection at any junction point but I would be suspect of the issue with the bad switch in the passenger door. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alini Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 I have seen folks have the connector corrode away in the trunk (behind the drivers side rear seat). Both lights are actually powered all the time and finally ground through the door switches. So you should always have 12 volts at one of the terminals in the light socket, if you dont you have a power issue. If you do, I would suspect the switches. Check for continuity between the other terminal of the socket and the ground when the door is open to verify a specific one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 I did notice that the lights did seem to magically work a few times when I was sitting in the back seat on the driver's side. Then I would move and they would stop working. This is where I'd concentrate my search. Sounds like you've found the where, now you need to figure out the why. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64Rivvy Posted October 23, 2015 Author Share Posted October 23, 2015 I verified I have 12v to one of the terminals in the light socket when the door is open. Should I have 12v at both terminals when the door is open? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msdminc Posted October 24, 2015 Share Posted October 24, 2015 64Rivvy, Seems like you need some door jamb switches rebuilt, at a minimum you need one rebuilt. I rebuild them for the ROA, putting in new beryllium copper sliding contacts and any other parts necessary to get your cores into working condition for $15/switch including return shipping in lower 48 United States. See my ad in the Riview or send me a PM and we can make arrangements. Rock On gord Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64Rivvy Posted October 24, 2015 Author Share Posted October 24, 2015 Gord,Sounds like they do need it. How long does it take to get them back to me once you get them?thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alini Posted October 24, 2015 Share Posted October 24, 2015 No you should only have 12v to one terminal, and it should be there all the time, door open or closed. The electric circuit isnt completed til the door is opened. It sounds like you need new door switches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64Rivvy Posted October 24, 2015 Author Share Posted October 24, 2015 I took the rear seat out last night and everything seemed solid with the ribbon cables from what I could see. I'll try taking both jamb switches out and testing the circuit. I def have 12v to only one side of each terminal so that's good. I'll plan to have my switches rebuilt. Might as well just do it right while I'm chasing this issue. Unfortunately, when I did this, I found my rear lower seat frame is in terrible shape. Going to need a new one or will have to do some fabrication and welding to rebuild this one if I can't find one. Thanks,Raul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msdminc Posted October 24, 2015 Share Posted October 24, 2015 Gord,Sounds like they do need it. How long does it take to get them back to me once you get them?thanks.Raul, It usually takes a day or at most two days to get them in the mail back to you, after I receive them. Take them out, send them to me (PM me for the address if you want me to do them) with a check for $15/switch. I use First Class US Mail to get them back to you. Let me know and Rock On, gord Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petelempert Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 Highly recommend Gord's rebuilding skills. Well worth the cost. It made my car light up like Christmas. Also, if memory serves me, it's good idea to make sure the rebuilt switches seat correctly in the door jamb when you re-install. I seem to remember that the switch needs to ground on bare metal on the jamb. A poor ground can cause some light hijinks. PRL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 Highly recommend Gord's rebuilding skills. Well worth the cost. It made my car light up like Christmas. Also, if memory serves me, it's good idea to make sure the rebuilt switches seat correctly in the door jamb when you re-install. I seem to remember that the switch needs to ground on bare metal on the jamb. A poor ground can cause some light hijinks. PRLPaint is not a good conductor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64Rivvy Posted October 26, 2015 Author Share Posted October 26, 2015 Thanks guys. Gord I will get them out and send them to you. I just sent you a PM for the info. Raul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msdminc Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 Raul, I responded. Rock On gord Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64Rivvy Posted November 5, 2015 Author Share Posted November 5, 2015 Got my switches back from gord today and put them on tonight. I have sail panel lights, map lights, console lights and they are much brighter as well! I highly recommend his switch rebuilding service and he got them back to me very quickly. Thanks gord!One electrical issue solved, now on to the dash lighting that doesn't want to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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