GaryP65 Posted October 7, 2015 Share Posted October 7, 2015 Finally some good news!It was a litle cold last night so I thought I'd put up a little heat in the garage with the doors closed. After a little tinkering and some luck I got her started!! It wasn't even trying to get it started, just testing. So before I passed out from the fumes in a closed garaged, I shut it off, open the doors and let it clear out. All excited, I hopped back in the seat and try to start it again. NOTHING. Now it will not even turn over.My first thought is the starter/generator but unsure.Any thoughts/remedies? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 Definitely sounds like the starter or a wire that has come off. Have a quick check the wire from the distributor is ok and the coil also.I assume the battery is ok ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
platt-deutsch Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 put a test light on the wire on the S/G unit and it should light with 12 volts when you hit the starter button. If not, It is probly the start switch contacts or battery cable. What year is it? It is probly 12 volt Pos.. Ground. Either polarity will work but Ampmeter will read backwards.. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted October 8, 2015 Author Share Posted October 8, 2015 It's a late 25 sedan. Positive ground Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted October 8, 2015 Author Share Posted October 8, 2015 Because I'm electrically retarded, do you mean ground the light to the frame and tough the light to the post terminal on the unit that connects to the starter switch? I will tell you this, sometimes, before I got it to start, the motor (or maybe the unit, unsure) would make a chugging sound with very little movement of the rotation of the motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 Are you sure the battery is sufficiently charged? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted October 8, 2015 Author Share Posted October 8, 2015 It's brand new and reads 12.6Hey platt, I put the lead on and hit the button. Light went on so switch works.What's next? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted October 11, 2015 Author Share Posted October 11, 2015 Does anyone want to weigh in on this? Any help would be much appreciated. Also, does anyone know of a repair manual on this unit? Model is GA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Bob Call Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 I'm not very knowledgeable about early Dodge Brothers, Chrysler, Graham, Maxwell and Plymouth. I do know that some cars in the teens and 20's had a 12 volt electrical system. Is the 1925 Dodge a 6V or 12V system? I'm thinking it's a 6V system and when you started it with a 12V battery you damaged something in the starter or ignition circuit. That's why it's a good ideal to get a shop manual for your car. That old of car there probably no factory manuals. So, look for a used manual like a Dyke's Auto Repair 14th edition. I'm not sure how far back Chilton's repair manuals go but they are pretty good. Maybe someone with a 25 Dodge will confirm the correct voltage for your car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Bob Call Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 Disregard my post above. I just looked at a thread about a 25 Dodge starter/generator problem and it clearly shows it is a 12V system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted October 11, 2015 Author Share Posted October 11, 2015 (edited) Yes it's a 12v system. I really think I need to rebuild the unit. Looking back on past start up attempts, the unit clearly wasn't up to par. I really need to know what to do because I'm confident that I can start it again. Edited October 11, 2015 by GaryP65 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 I would open up the starter foot switch and take a look at the condition of the contacts first. If you suspect the contacts you can try starting it with a pair of jumper cables. If positive ground connect generator output directly to negative terminal on battery and the connect positive terminal to ground. If starter operates then you know the problem is 'upstream' (Cable condition, connections, starter switch). If it won't crank with jumpers then problem is in starter - check brushes, brush springs. I don't know why my text has a line through it.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cahartley Posted October 11, 2015 Share Posted October 11, 2015 Double check the ground wire first to make SURE it's actually making a good ground.The next move is step on the starter button for maybe 10 seconds and CAREFULLY feel around every electrical connection for hot spots.CAREFULLY........12V will create a lot of heat real fast........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted October 11, 2015 Author Share Posted October 11, 2015 (edited) What do the hot spots indicate? I'm assuming a bad switch. Edited October 11, 2015 by GaryP65 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted October 12, 2015 Author Share Posted October 12, 2015 Took the ring cover off and found a spring that looks like what I have been told are the elusive brushes. I think, but you fine folks can confirm. One of the springs that holds them in place is apparently broken. Is this why it won't turn over of is this only one problem in a series. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 Yup, those are the critters. The spring looks a bit mis-shapen but not necessarily broken. My guess is that whomever replaced them had some difficulty getting the spring to fit properly over the stepped spacer (on right side of spring in photo). You can pull back on the little tab that extends past the brush and feel the spring force. Compare this one to the other starter brush. If it feels noticeably weaker then the spring is a problem. Those springs look to clean to be very old (mine were quite rusty)... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted October 12, 2015 Author Share Posted October 12, 2015 I thought the same. Looks like someone made an attempt some time ago and possibly gave up given the condition of the rest of the system.Do you think this is why it won't crank? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 (edited) It is probably the wrong spring. The diameter looks too large. The ring on the end looks odd too. Edited October 12, 2015 by Spinneyhill (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted October 12, 2015 Author Share Posted October 12, 2015 Yep. Spins with the crank handle. Other springs have good tension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 Try the jumper cables. It will bypass the foot switch, cables etc. and tell you if starter is the culprit or upstream. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted October 12, 2015 Author Share Posted October 12, 2015 I will. So negative on battery to terminal with cable, positive connected to ground (frame of car)? It should spin? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 Yes, just make sure your car is in fact connected with plus side of battery to ground. Over the years many were converted to negative ground (so I've read). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted October 14, 2015 Author Share Posted October 14, 2015 I did what platt said above. I hooked a test light to the terminal on the S/G and ground the other end to the frame, hit the foot switch and it lite up so that should mean that the switch is good, correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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