Water leaks under the windshield

[Aaron65]

I got caught out in a rainstorm in my '53 yesterday, and it just leaked like a sieve under the dash.  I generally don't drive my old cars in the rain, so this was a bit of an eye opener.

 

It leaked really bad right in front of the door opening, just soaking the carpet.  It seems like it's coming from the corners behind the dashboard, maybe leaking down the kick panel.  It also looked like it was coming in the center of the dash right above the heater, but it was trailing all over the place and I decided to spend my time getting the carpets dried and stuff like that.

 

Anyway, when I had the car apart five years ago, I remember that the beltline trim had some nuts with gaskets on them, and I replaced the wiper post gaskets.  I'm guessing the windshield gasket is original, however (I've never replaced it).  Could a windshield gasket leak that badly under the dash?  I see a few cracks in it throughout, but who knows if it is still sealing underneath.  

 

I'm really just spitballing here.  I think I've been caught out in the rain with it twice now, but yesterday's rain was pretty heavy.  Thanks!

[buick5563]

I know on a 55, there are several holes where stainless trim retainers screw into the body. Those need to be sealed. Even new weatherstripping installed properly can leak some in severe rain due to ill fitting glass or repro rubber. Sometimes you can get away with sealing between the window and the glass with weatherstrip adhesive... Sometimes. FWIW, my wagon was leaking everywhere in all of those Midwest flooding rains last month.

[TexasJohn55]

Mine also leaks around glass on left corner, haven't decided what type of sealer to try yet. I think a sealer that will flow and fill would work better than silicone, silicone requires that you get a 100% seal and it doesn't flow well, if you miss a spot, it leaks.

[Aaron65]

Well, I found this on Amazon...it may be worth a shot for all of us.  

 

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81730-Flowable-Silicone-Windshield/dp/B000BKEBO0

Edited July 20, 2015 by Aaron65 (see edit history)

[old-tank]

Try it and report back.

[bullheimer]

take out the fing windshield!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i still prefer the old time butyl tape, but most people glue them.

if you are super paranoid about it and your car's been painted already, and you  have a great (shined with OOOO steel wool)) stainless molding, you can use that black windshield glue, to use as caulk instead of the clapped out clear silicone, and permanetly seal, again: glue your molding and windshild all almost together. that will guarantee you never see water in there again.  i wipe it down like any other caulk, with my finger in shop rag or paper towel. or skin.     you have to obviously do both sides of the molding to get it water tight. and fo SHO you dont want to do this until AFTER your final  paint job.   But if your metal is good on your body, or it 's not painted yet, then do without that, and just re glue, or butyl tape,. your windshield back in.

 

come to think of it. i just told you what i did on the BACK windshield of my tempest. i do not think i would glue my moulding on over a FRONT windshield at all. esp here in the n.w. we get our windshields broken on a regular basis. it is ridiculous!  DONT glue your front molding on. i guess the windshield guys can get glued in windshields out cause they been gluing them in for years now. so i dont really know if removing a windshield installed with tape would be much easier to remove to a professional.  i imagine they cut thru glue like nothing too.  but, from what you are sayin, your seal is toast holmes, you need to remove and reinstall. should take a half hour including removing the molding. or moulding. you can get a moulding removing tool anywhere. make sure you use one. oh and buy a few new moulding clips to replace all the broken ones you are going to make.

 

 

ps. my 62s windshield is going to cost over 8 bills. .

Edited July 21, 2015 by bullheimer (see edit history)

[sweetpotato]

A possible leak area is the rubber strip on top of the cowl that the closed hood rests on. The push pin holes that hold it down go straight into the under-dash area. While the mounting area for this strip is slightly raised for drainage, in a downpour water can come in there if the bottom of the strip is not caulked. Bob