DaveC6970 Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 Hello again,First I want to thank everyone for the tips and advice on my water pump/timing chain replacement last summer. The car is running great now!I do have a question for those of you with the first gen Turbine Wheel Covers. Do you have a preferred method for removing the spinner caps? My 63 has these and while I've done a lot of work on the car since I bought her, I've never had the wheels off. I'm hesitant to use the spinner "bars" for a grip, I would hate to snap one off. I did try to pry the cap from the base turbine piece at the mating groove. But I was using a nylon trim removal tool trying not to damage anything. My tool was too thick and would not fit deep enough in the groove. I must of removed a thousand Chevy rally caps in my life but usually you can get your finger tips behind the edge of them. Any advice would be appreciated. -Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 This style cover has been on my '63 since it was new and I've owned it since '82. I've never had a problem using the spinners to remove the caps. Just make sure that when you put them back on that you DO NOT hit the emblem to seat them. The emblem is plastic and sits in a hole. All you'll do is crack the emblem and the cover will still not be seated. Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Curran Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 Hello again,First I want to thank everyone for the tips and advice on my water pump/timing chain replacement last summer. The car is running great now!I do have a question for those of you with the first gen Turbine Wheel Covers. Do you have a preferred method for removing the spinner caps? My 63 has these and while I've done a lot of work on the car since I bought her, I've never had the wheels off. I'm hesitant to use the spinner "bars" for a grip, I would hate to snap one off. I did try to pry the cap from the base turbine piece at the mating groove. But I was using a nylon trim removal tool trying not to damage anything. My tool was too thick and would not fit deep enough in the groove. I must of removed a thousand Chevy rally caps in my life but usually you can get your finger tips behind the edge of them. Any advice would be appreciated. -DaveI owned my 64 for 24 years and always pulled them off by the spinner. I would put heavy work gloves on first and I never had a problem. Like Ed says, don't put them back on by hitting the plastic center or you will either crack it or push it in.Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelman Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 A little off topic, but when you get the caps off and decide to pull the wheels, remember the driver side lug nuts are left hand thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveC6970 Posted March 21, 2015 Author Share Posted March 21, 2015 Once again you guys were right. I wrapped the spinner in a towel so I could get a get a grip against the sharp edges. Yanked a few times and off it came. I posted a pic below, you can see the "L" on the ends of the studs so they have never been changed. Hey Steelman, if you don't mind, how wide are your back wheels and what is the offset? I'm thinking of a set of period mags as an alternate set of wheels and wondering how big I can fit under there.Thanks again -Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lrlforfun Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 OK Dave: A suggestion. Clean the inside of the turbine cap with some steel wool, clean the edges of the fasteners the same and spray a little bit of WD-40 on the areas that touch....It makes it a wee bit easier. Mitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelman Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 (edited) Once again you guys were right. I wrapped the spinner in a towel so I could get a get a grip against the sharp edges. Yanked a few times and off it came. I posted a pic below, you can see the "L" on the ends of the studs so they have never been changed. Hey Steelman, if you don't mind, how wide are your back wheels and what is the offset? I'm thinking of a set of period mags as an alternate set of wheels and wondering how big I can fit under there.Thanks again -DaveMy rears are 17x8 with a 4 1/4" backspacing and a 255/55/17 (28.04 OD) tire. I have seen wider and taller tires used, but I wanted a real sidewall. On my bagged car, this fills the wheel wells nicely. Edited March 22, 2015 by steelman Added OD (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveC6970 Posted March 22, 2015 Author Share Posted March 22, 2015 Mitch, thanks for the tip. I was thinking a little lubricant might not be a bad thingSteve, thanks for the wheel info. The wheels I've been looking at have that same backspace only a 15x8. I'm trying to get a period vibe so I'm looking at a Halibrand style wheel like the image attached. What do you think? -Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 I'm trying to get a period vibe so I'm looking at a Halibrand style wheel like the image attached. What do you think? - DaveIf you want period correct, you should look for either Ansen ET's or Ansen slotted mags (Halibrands were expensive and found on all out racers,) Cragar SS wheels, or American Racing's Torque Thrust wheels. Nothing says "..from the 60's" like these wheels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveC6970 Posted March 22, 2015 Author Share Posted March 22, 2015 Hi Ed, Initially that was my thought too. I was going to go with American Racing TTO's, the torque thrust with the straight spokes not curved like the torque thrust D. Also considered a set of 5 spoke supremes with skinny white walls. While I like the look of both wheels I thought I would try something different, something I don't believe I have ever seen. Kind of like what you said Halibrands were more a true racing wheel. Maybe what a Indy car owner might put on his personal car back in the early 60's. Plus they're made in the USA and will drill them any bolt pattern. I spoke with the owner at the GNRS in Pomona and he even offered to open up the center bore hole so no spacers are needed. -Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelman Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 These will give it a hot rod look alright. I like these. Should fit the gentlemen's hot rod theme well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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