My blinkers do not work when I turn the parking lights and/or head lights on!

[Guest davidc1966]

Good Evening All and Happy New Year! This forum has been very helpful to me in getting my 49 Super in shape and I have yet another question for you folks. My dash and interior lights are not working. When I pull on my parking lights and/or head lights the blinkers stop working. And when the blinkers are working, both arrows on the dash flash as if the hazard lights were on. I did install an electronic flasher (which come to find out is 12 volt) to get the blinkers to work, which it did. Can you give me some ideas as to what may be causing this? I did notice a piece of tin foil acting as a fuse so I am thinking there is a short some where. Could it be the light switch? Do I need to install a 6 volt flasher as well? I am a bit confused as I am a 12 volt man so I am learning the ropes here with the 6 volt system. Any assistance you can provide is greatly appreciated.

Edited January 3, 2015 by davidc1966 (see edit history)

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

David, the 6 volt works just like 12 volt. Just half the voltage. Yes you should get a 6v flasher. I am surprised the 12v one works.

The other problems are classic bad ground problems, more than likely.

Ben

[bhambulldog]

Bad Grounds for sure. The electricity gremlins are trying to find their way to ground and are having a hard time. So, they're acting up

Also as said, the 6v works the same as 12v

But, 6v has bigger wires

The smaller 12v conductors in the flasher are too small

[95Cardinal]

Grounds X3!!

[Guest davidc1966]

Thanks! I appreciate the input. When hunting down the grounding issues, given that it is positive ground, how would one do that? Reverse of testing for Negative? My buddy and I have a multimeter we are going to use so I was wondering if we could utilize it. Thanks again folks, you are the best!

Edited January 3, 2015 by davidc1966 (see edit history)

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

IT IS NEG GROUND!!

Ben

[rick60]

I've also seen a bad bulb cause similar problems. The bulb burns out causing one of the filaments in a dual filament bulb to contact the other filament. This creates a short be tween the two circuits. For example: Applying the brakes can cause the parking lights to illuminate, activating a turn signal can cause all of the park lights to flash. This scenario is not common but it is something that should be checked when chasing problems of this nature. I agree that poor grounds cause similar problems. A circuit with a poor ground will seek ground through another circuit and create conditions that you describe. Good luck.

[Marty Roth]

David1966,

NOTE: Your car is NEGATIVE GROUND --- NOT POSITIVE !!!

[Guest davidc1966]

Thanks Rick, appreciate the tip!

[Guest davidc1966]

Thanks Fellas for pointing that out. For some reason we thought it was positive ground.

Looking to install a electric fuel pump as well and bought a 6 volt one. I have read that I can use the pump to start the car and that the pump I bought will allow the vacuum pump to work in conjunction with it (it has a special bypass valve). What I was curious about is if I decided to just run the car off the electric fuel pump, I am assuming that I would have to bypass the old vacuum pump correct? If correct, do most folks just leave the old fuel pump in place or do they blank it off?

Thanks again to all, I appreciate your time and knowledge!

[Marty Roth]

You could just leave the mechanical pump in place without negative consequence - except if the diaphragm were ruptured it could send gas into your oil, diluting the oil and ultimately causing an explosion - but this would be the case even without an auxiliary electric pump.

Install the electric pump as far to the rear, and as low as reasonable. Electric pumps are "PUSHER", not "PULLER" style.

You do not need to have the electric running all of the time. If your car has been sitting up for an extended time, and if gas has drained back, the electric pump can be used to prime the fuel line, provide gas to the mechanical fuel pump, and therefore to the carburetor. A couple of quick pumps on the accelerator pedal (without turning on the ignition switch) will get gas into the float bowl, and will set the automatic choke. Then you can:

1. turn off the electric pump,

2. turn on the ignition switch,

3. step on the Accelerator pedal

Your Buick should start right up.

Later, while driving, if as a result of heat or ethanol gas, you happen to notice your car surging or showing signs of hesitation, it is likely experiencing "Vapor Lock". When this occurs, simply switch ON the electric pump and allow it to run. Even a short time is generally enough to clear the vapor-lock and allow your car to run well, but at times you may need to keep it running, depending on external conditions.

It makes little sense to install the electric pump, and then to bypass the mechanical pump which is generally more than capable of maintaining you car's operation. Besides, what if you had an electrical failure? Generally you could make it home, especially if you turn off the radio, heater, use only parking lights if travelling with other cars, etc. But if you depended solely on an electric fuel pump, that is one more current draw!

Good Luck,

Marty