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Distributor Install Woes on My 64


dhaven64

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"Let's talk about getting the distributor to go all the way in. If you are a novice you can get into trouble pushing down on the distributor while someone turns the engine over. If you don't do this right you can get the engine out of time very easily. "

I disagree. The distributor gear is rather "tall" and to skip time with the cam the distributor would have to be raised a good 1 to 2 inches for the gears to lose mesh. This should not happen if one is putting steady downward pressure on the distributor. Pulling the distributor in and out of the motor is unnecessary once you are confident the timing is correct. Of course, your advice regarding TDC and setting intial timing is spot on...but no need to keep going thru this procedure repeatedly.

I agree with your advice to use compressed air at the filler neck to bring fuel up to the pump. My thoughts exactly as I read that the fuel system was completely dry. But BE CAREFUL. A spark, generated by contacting the filler neck with a metal blowgun, or perhaps by creating a ground for static electricity will turn the fuel tank into a perfect bomb. I always feel rather apprehensive when I do this as creating gasoline fumes always makes me nervous. There are probably safer ways to accomplish this but because time is always at a premium I tend to just grab a rag, as Winston suggests, and a rubber tipped blowgun.

Tom

Edited by 1965rivgs (see edit history)
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I have been reading this thread with interest as I am in the middle of putting an engine back in the car and am at the spot where I was putting the distributor in. I noticed a couple of things that can help you.

1. The rotor on the distributor and the tab on distributor gear are in the same place. Meaning it the rotor is running vertical, the tab on the bottom of the distributor that goes over the oil pump also runs vertically.

2. The distributor turns about 15 degrees as it slides down the gears, the means the oil pump has to be oriented the same.

Knowing this, you can look where your rotor points when you put it in the hole, take it out and then line the oil pump the same way. It should be close and with luck it will go right on. If not take the distributor back out turn the oil pump a little bit and try again. By little I mean 1 or two degrees. Eventually it will drop all the way flush with the block. It took me about 5 times in and out to get it in.

I also marked where # 1 is and had the engine a TDC to make sure all will be correct when I try to start this later the winter.

Good Luck.

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By that I mean cranking with thumb over #1 hole

As the piston on no. 1 starts it's upward movement on compression stroke, you will begin to feel the compression pushing on your thumb. At that point the timing mark will be approaching zero but not there quite yet. Once you feel the push on your thumb, watch the timing marks and stop turning the engine when the pointer gets on zero.

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