dhaven64

Did you sell this carb?

Never mind, I found one.

Hey all, looking to buy a working fuel gauge for my 64 Riv. Anyone have one or know who might? Checked on eBay but no luck. Thanks, Dan.

Thanks Rick. I've got all the necessary pieces to make this work, and the threads are fine, I just need longer screws like you said. One question though, I hooked it up without the spacer to see if the threads were ok, but all I hear is a clicking sound when I press the horn bar and when I turn the steering wheel. I read in another post that it could be dirty points on the horn relay, but they are clean as it's new. Any other ideas? Thanks in advance. Dan

Hi Rick, I purchased the horn guts (as a kit) but with the spacer makes it so the screws cannot reach and thread into the hub. Also, it didn't include the 2 smaller screws and washers like those in the link you provided. Any ideas on how to make the screws fit? How necessary is the spacer?

Hey Gene. I'm interested in the horn parts, but exactly is the horn switch? Where can I find it? Thanks, Dan

Yes, I reached out to him first, but haven't heard back from him yet. Thanks Ed.

Hey everyone, Looking to buy a horn cap (R script) and innards for my wood steering wheel. Anyone know where I can find them? Thanks, Dan

Thanks, I'll try that!

Hey All: What is the best method for cleaning the gunk out of my crankcase breather cap on my 64 California riv so I can reuse it? Also, I plan on replacing the rubber hosing.

Got the # 1cylinder at tdc, distributor still not playing nice but I'm taking it slow.

Nevemind I found a picture of what it should look like and it's correct.

That's perfect thanks. One last question, in the picture I just took of my distributor, is the tab supposed to look like that? It doesn't seem right to me.

By that I mean cranking with thumb over #1 hole

Ok, so am I supposed to repeat the process until the timing mark hits 0?

Thanks, seafoam for your detailed instructions and cautions regarding my starting problems. I definitely will take yours and others advice in turning the oil pump gear to align with the distributor shaft tab. I read up on finding tdc on the compression stroke but how can I tell when I'm there? I know I need to remove the valve cover on the number 1 cylinder side, but how can I tell after each turn of the crank if its at tdc? As for the rebuild, the shop I used started the motor and tested it before giving it back to me. I had the carb rebuilt and I rebuilt the fuel pump and installed it along with a new water pump, hoses, belts, plugs, wires etc. I also put in a new fuel sending unit (for an air conditioned riv, but capped off the return line as I don't have air conditioning installed yet) and new rubber fuel lines front to back. I don't feel comfortable working with gas in my garage, so after installing the distributor correctly, I'll give it one more try to start it, and if it won't start, it's back to the the engine shop.

Ok thank you very much for the advice. I do have break-in oil in the engine and will use the priming method you described. I'm not sure it's going to fire until I figure out the fuel issue, but I'll be one step closer to firing this bad boy up. I'll let ya know when I do.

Ok good to know. How exactly do I go about using a drill to prime the motor with the oil pump?

But I have yet to start it

It has been rebuilt. Dan

Hey I'm still looking for a horn cap for my wood wheel (64 riviera) do you know where I can find one? Dan

Couldn't I prime it by disconnecting the number one plug and turning it over 10-15 seconds at a time?

Ah ok, so there are 2 lines that run from the exhaust manifold to the carburetor?

I have the port just below the one in my picture connected to the vacuum modulator on the transmission because the steel line connecting to the carb is screwed in??