Trunk Restoration

[ricosan]

Hey Guys,

I found a handsome vintage trunk to replace the over sized and disproportionate trunk that it had when I purchased the car. This trunk is 3" less in width and fits very nicely within the trunk shelf. It needs some serious TLC. Structurally it is sound but the covering (canvas?) is a mess. It is put together with rivits and so I am hoping that I can just replace the leather and treat the covering with brown or even black if necessary. Any suggestions. It will not be exposed to the weather.

ricosan

[auburnseeker]

I redid one for a guy locally. The width was OK but I took a couple of inches out of it's depth front to back. Basically almost eliminating the forward piece on the top. I also had to recess 2 spots on the back (it wasn't a drop down back) to clear a pair of spare tire mounts.

What started out as a small job turned out to take alot of time. I had to completely cover the whole trunk over and replace the straps and handles. I should have built a new one from scratch. Anyways, the rivets were actually tacks with a big decorative head. They are peaned ? over on the back so when you remove them you really need to straighten them but you will pretty much ruin the hole they go in for another tack to catch the wood. I ended up using screws, then cutting the decorative tack heads off the new tacks and using a silicone adhesive, put tack tops over all the screw heads. It actually turned out quite well. I found a grained exterior vinyl that looked very correct through a regular upholstery company. The trunk hardware I found online but I would have to do a little research to find the same company again if you need the link. Good luck with your project. I only charged 250.00 for the whole job I did and that included the new material and rivets/ Hardware plus I polished all the hardware I took off and redied the leather trunk corner caps. I think the owner made out very good. (boy do I hate giving estimates) Especially since he brought the car over and made me mount the trunk as well for no extra compensation.

[ricosan]

Hey Auburn,

Thanks for all the info. It has a lot of "peened" rivets that I don't want to tackle. I'm thinking of covering the canvas with a brown or black paint and then replace the leather. I will have to remove some of the rivets but but hopefully I will be able to get them back on. Any product would you would recommend for covering the canvas?

ricosan

[Friartuck]

This article maybe of interest in restoring your trunk:

http://www.metroccca.org/tech_articles/tech_06_winter.pdf

I'm in the process of updating it, so be patient. As for covering, consider vinyls and other coverings from a book binding source like Gane Brothers.

[auburnseeker]

I believe this company is the one I ordered the tacks straps and handles from. http://www.brettunsvillage.com/

I can't remember the fabric company but for some reason I think they were based in Western NY (rochester or Buffalo). I'll have to check.

[ricosan]

thanks Guys,

This is looking more and more like I can do a full restoration myself. With a hundred or more rivets on the trunk, the job seemed daunting. I knew that I wouldn't be able to get all of the rivets back and holding like they came from the factory. I think the trunk will be a perfect addition. I'll try to provide pictures as I go.

ricosan

[auburnseeker]

If it's going on the beautiful car in your Avitar I would do a full restoration on the trunk. You will be happy you did. The One I did went on a kind of tired Overland Sedan and looked great when it was done. Made the whole car look better. Kind of like a new set of tires on freshly painted wheels does to a project car. Good luck.

[MarrsCars]

The link Auburnseeker is a great resource, there is a page there with relevance to your project and I have used them years ago for hardware.

Here's the direct link to the How-to section: http://www.brettunsvillage.com/trunks/howto/howto.html

How to replace handles: http://www.brettunsvillage.com/trunks/howto/parts.html

Spare parts: http://www.brettunsvillage.com/trunks/howto/parts/

I have never seen rivets on big trunks, only tacks so be prepared for that when you dig in, bit I suppose anything is possible with all the various manufacturers over the years.

[Friartuck]

The article on using threaded rivets for trunk hardware has been republished:

http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public4/threaded-rivets-1.cfm

[ricosan]

Thanks for all the great information! With your help, I was able to find all the rivets, nails, tacks and a few doo-dads I needed for the job.

I've started striping the canvas covering (2 layers). Most of it came off without too much hassle except where someone used wood glue to stick the canvas to the trunk. The box has some damage in a few areas. In these areas I've restored the wood where I could and replaced areas with wooden slats as the same thickness as the plywood. Here are some pics of my progress. Tomorrow I plan to sand the box.

I purchased canvas from JoAnns Fabric store. I'm not sure if it is the same quality as marine canvas. This trunk will rarely if ever see rain. I plan to coat the sanded box and lids with polyurethane. I think this will produce a water resistant box and hopefully, long lasting too.

I am unsure what to use to attach the canvas to the trunk. My plan is to use contact cement unless someone can recommend another product.

Thanks again!

ricosan

[ricosan]

Canvas is some tough fabric. I tried using a belt sander with 80 grit paper. It won't take it off. I am going to try using a paint stripper heat gun today.

I also found more wood damage on the bottom. I will be replacing this today also if I can find the time before it gets too hot. I have to do this work outside because of the dust and or chemicals and it's supposed to be 97 this afternoon.

ricosan

[Durant Mike]

Another place that has trunk supplies is Van Dykes Restorers at www.vandykes.com. Although not specifically automotive, they do have handles, straps, corners etc. Hit their web site and look up Trunk Hardware.

[auburnseeker]

I used contact cement on the one I did. I'm not sure how it's holding up now but one year after I did it, I saw the trunk and it still looked good. I used a Vinyl type cover material. You will want to be sure the contact cement doesn't bleed through the canvas. I would do a test piece on scrap wood first. The original trunk I built the new one from was all "cemented" or adhered down in a similar fashion. A heat gun is probably your only option and patience.

Good luck.

[ricosan]

I'm going to try contact cement. The canvas is pretty stiff and I think contact cement will help with corners and curves. I bought a heat gun for $22 at Home Depot and I've tested it on several areas and it looks like it's going to work. After striping the canvas off the bottom I discovered more rot. I replaced the bottom this morning with new wood. Tomorrow I'll attack the rest of the canvas and then sand the box smooth.

[ricosan]

The heat gun worked really well. It took about 2 hour to strip the remainder of the canvas. Then I sanded the remainder of residue off. My next step will be covering all of the wood with a coat of polyurethane to seal everything. After that it's time to start putting on the canvas. I have to admit I'm a little intimidated at the thought of replacing the canvas. This is all new territory for me.

ricosan

[auburnseeker]

I would do a dry run with your canvas first. even use a few clamps to hold it in place to determine the best way to run it. Hopefully you kind of took note how they tucked corners in and how they relief cut it in places to make the bends. I should have thought to mention that before I guess. I think they usually covered the sides first then the main body. Since you bought the canvas at a local supplier if you make a mistake before it's all glued you can always run and get a little more. No waiting another week for it to come in the mail.

Good luck.

[ricosan]

Good morning,

Auburn, Thanks for the tips. I took lots of photographs of all of the areas where the pieces of canvas came together. I hope they will give me enough detail to see how it was joined previously and where to make the relief cuts.

Today I am going to have to hand sand the top with the slats as it still feels a little bumpy. I don't know how forgiving the canvas will be but this is the only area that isn't absolutely flat. After that I'll coat with polyurethane and hope to start with the canvas on Sunday. Clamps - I hadn't thought of that. I have lots of clamps and even though I'm using contact cement, there are a number of challenging bends to be addressed. Clamps will do it!

ricosan

[auburnseeker]

You can use tacks or even staples in some of the concealed areas to help hold the canvas as well. I wouldn't be surprised if there were some used when it was made anyways. I think I found some on the one I did.

[Joe in Canada]

I am restoring a 1930-31 Cadillac trunk with the drop front also that I found on EBay. Mine is metal skinned wood lined and no canvas cover. The corners were originally nailed so to keep the corners in the same position as original I left the nails in the corner aluminum trim. When assembling the trim nails went back in the same sheet metal holes using them like dowel pins to line up the sheet metal. I used body panel glue to hold it all together and now the tounge and grove lid seal fits great. For the rivet screws and hardware I ordered them from Koolpackrat@aol.com who specialises in trunk hardware only and very reasonable. I never found the original style leather handles so I had them made at a tack shop. I am in the process making the wood liner at this time .

Mine is on the left and hoping to look like the red one some day except for those handles.

[ricosan]

Hey Joe,

You have a different set of challenges than I do but the end result will be worth the effort. That's a beautiful red trunk!

ricosan

[ricosan]

Hey Guys,

I finally got up the nerve to start fitting the new canvas to the trunk's exterior. I coated the wood surfaces with a brush coat of contact cement and used a spray contact cement on the canvas. I was surprised at how easy the canvas was to fit into tight turns and over edges. Once the fabric was dampened by the contact cement, it was much softer and proved to be more pliable. I had to replace another piece of wood on the front panel after several attempts attempts to salvage it failed. Some of the "relief" cuts were a little sketchy but overall I'm pleased with the outcome.

Next: Replacing the hardware.

PICS so far

[auburnseeker]

Looks great so far and the worst part is behind you. It'll be a nice touch to your car.

[Joe in Canada]

Superb job of your trunk. I can see you take great pride in your work. You will have yours done and I will not be back at mine yet.

[ricosan]

Hey guys,

I was really scared about pounding these "tacks" into the trunk's thin board. I needed to bend them over so that they will hold tight. I used a 5 lb barbell to absorb the blows and bend the tacks over beautifully. It took two people to do the job but it went quickly and efficiently with all of the tacks bending back into the wood on the backside.

This afternoon I'm going to try to get the clasps attached.

ricosan

[auburnseeker]

Wow those tacks look really long. How thick is the wood? How long is the tack? The job looks great so far. The trunk I did the wood had ripped out around all the tacks I had to use a different fastening message to make them hold.

[tomwallace]

I am going to restore a similar trunk. I cannot reuse my nails are they are rusted away. I can find no supplier for new ones.

Where did you get your supply of these domed capped tacks?

Thanks

Tom Wallace, Dayton, OH

Wow those tacks look really long. How thick is the wood? How long is the tack? The job looks great so far. The trunk I did the wood had ripped out around all the tacks I had to use a different fastening message to make them hold.

[auburnseeker]

I am going to restore a similar trunk. I cannot reuse my nails are they are rusted away. I can find no supplier for new ones.

Where did you get your supply of these domed capped tacks?

Thanks

Tom Wallace, Dayton, OH

I think we went over suppliers and what not earlier on in this thread. Check back through the posts.

[ricosan]

Tom,

The tacks I used are not capped. I was disappointed in these tacks as they didn't have a very pronounced "dome" either. The overall effect is good but not as nice as the originals. Everything these days is made cheaper and cheaper. Take a very close look at the product before you buy. I ordered from both Restoration Supply and Brettuns Village. On the flip side, the "rivets" I got for the clasps are very nicely domed. This is my first trunk and I've learned a lot from my miss-steps.

The trunk is now at the cobbler's house to have the leather pieces fitted. Pics to follow.

ricosan

[ricosan]

Hey Guys,

Finally finished! Outside anyhow. There were times that I really didn't think I could do this but I forged ahead and it has finally come together. I mounted the hardware using the threaded rivets with a washer and nut on the backside (inside). Rivet size was limited so I ended up with bolts that were all too long. I used a forstner bit to recess a hole so that I could countersink the washer and nut. I then used my dremal with the sanding discs to cut the rivets flush with the inside of the box.

Next will be the inside of the trunk. I haven't given a lot of thought as to what to cover the inside with. I plan to go the Jo Ann's Fabric store to choose an inside cover. Maybe a good wall paper will work well.

ricosan

[Joe in Canada]

You are doing a great job on your trunk as mine is still on hold. I did have a tack shop make new leather handles like the original and get the rivet screws at Hershey next week. After I sand blasted the metal skin the floor had sun shine coming through a couple of spots. I made a new skin that is one piece that covers the bottom and back but I made an executive decision not to use it so I repaired the holes. The reason is I was very nerves about the top lining up with the sides when closing as it is a tongue and grove fit with about 1/16" tolerance. I left the nails in the aluminum corner trim but cut them shorter to use as dowel pins and when assembling. The shortened nails went back in the original holes so I was sure it should all line up again. Then cut them flush after assembly so not to create a gap between the wood and metal skin.

Now you are probably wondering what is holding it all together seeing I have no wood liner in it that was originally made first then the metal skin nailed on. I am gluing the outer metal skins together with panel bond used for gluing car body's together. I was in a body shop and observed them gluing a box side on a pickup and thought why not. I was also told that BMW for one example has a considerable amount of glued on panels. The local NAPA auto parts store supplied me with the product. Doing it this way the box should be at the original dimension's as the nails in the corner trim are back in the original holes of the sides. A word of caution that if you use panel bond it is a one shot deal as it does not come apart again once cured. Secondly paint will not stick to it so any residue must be cleaned off. The sides are now all glued together as I am working backwards and next to make a wood liner. In the picture you can see the shortened nails in the corner trim. This part goes below the drop down front of trunk.