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Question on reproduction aluminum valve covers


Guest Mikael

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Hi there,

as a beginner I would like to hear some opinions and experiences on reproduction valve covers from you who are more anvanced with their Rivieras. I have a base 1965 RIviera with 401 engine. I'm planning to dress up a little the engine by replacing those basic valve covers with aluminum ones. The good originals seem to scarce and maybe even expensive. Are the aluminum valve covers offered by the Old Buick Parts, CARS, ok? See the ones behind these links:

http://www.oldbuickparts.com/catalog/up-to-1960-buick-group-engine-valve-cover-1953-66-buick-aluminum-p-25685.html

or

http://www.oldbuickparts.com/catalog/up-to-1960-buick-group-engine-valve-cover-1953-66-buick-aluminum-p-18850.html

Either of those would seem quite a good deal to me.

A friend of mine has a Hudson Rod with Nailhead engine. He has some repro aluminum valve covers (I don't know from where) and he warned me about the repros since the ones he got were leaking. Generally I think that the aluminum covers are easier install so that they won't leak. If you tighten the basic covers too tight or mishandle them otherwise, the leak is usually the result.

Any opinions or recommendations?

Your faraway friend from Finland,

Mikael

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Mikael, I have bought two sets of the reproduction valve covers and was pleased with the first set from TA Performance. The second set from Original Parts Group was a sorry attempt at making this item. Fortunately the set from OPGI also had a crack in one, so I was able to return them without any problems. Their website said that they were painted for uniformity in color. This paint job was a feeble attempt to cover up flaws.

The aluminum valve covers from CARS look good in the picture and the price is very good and Clark's Corvair parts also offers them but at a higher cost of $340.00. Calvin Clark has always tried to offer a superior product but for that sort of money you should be able to locate an original set. I bought a set from Wheatbelt Buick but the link on the ROA website is not working for some reason. You could also try Larry Daisey at Rancho Riviera for an original set. Remember that the 1966 Valve Covers have a dent on the inside of the drivers side front that I believe was for the California pollution pump. The 1965 models did not have this. You are right that the aluminum valve covers brighten up the whole engine compartment.

Good luck

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M-I love the finned aluminum look, but you might also consider chrome. When I rebuilt my 401, I had planned to go with repro covers. Along the way I got sort of sentimental about the valves covers that had been on the engine for over 40 years. I re-chromed the covers and the intake valley under the carb. IMHO it looks super cool. It adds just enough bling underhood and looks factory. Even the firing order is visible. Back in the day, when you opened the hood of a car that "had something special", it was usually a factory motor with chromed covers and a really cool air cleaner. Just something to consider. PRL

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Guest atomickneedrop

Hi Mikel,

Here are a couple of pictures of the engine bay of my 64 with the Aluminium Valve Covers from CARS. They fit well and were just what I was looking for.

Cheers Kraigpost-77345-143142266191_thumb.jpg

post-77345-14314226618_thumb.jpg

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M-I love the finned aluminum look, but you might also consider chrome. When I rebuilt my 401, I had planned to go with repro covers. Along the way I got sort of sentimental about the valves covers that had been on the engine for over 40 years. I re-chromed the covers and the intake valley under the carb. IMHO it looks super cool. It adds just enough bling underhood and looks factory. Even the firing order is visible. Back in the day, when you opened the hood of a car that "had something special", it was usually a factory motor with chromed covers and a really cool air cleaner. Just something to consider. PRL

No need to chrome aluminum valve covers. You can have them polished so that they look chrome plated. That's what's on my car.

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So Patrick, you're alive after all. Nice of you to advertise a rear floor mat and then totally disappear after I quickly (after your ad and proferred photos) said I'd take it. Get a higher offer?

For those of you following this thread, I apologize for the distraction:

SBRMD, unfortunately, I've been 2500 miles away from home burying a family member and settling an estate. I regret that my focus has not been on responding to your interest in a 50 year old rubber mat for your precious car. I always find it interesting how some folks first assume the worst about others. I really don't give a damn about a few extra dollars that anyone could have offered (and no one has). Give me a break. If you have an issue with me, this is not the place to do it.

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Well Patrick, my condolences; however, you sure have the time and "focus" (your word not mine) to post on this thread, but not to follow through on your own thread where you advertised and have a responsibility. If you don't think this is the appropriate place to gain your attention, after my posting to your sale thread a few times and sending you more than one e-mail without response from you, then maybe you should check in on said thread once in a while, where others besides me have commented on your business practices.

And by the way, regarding your mat: I formally retract my offer. Good luck.

Edited by SBRMD (see edit history)
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In the 60's Buick offered chrome steel nailhead valve covers as part of a 'dress up' kit from the parts dept=they do look nice and I'm surprised somebody around here hasn't grabbed up a bunch of the OE painted and chromed them up for resale- Dan Mpls. Mn.

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Dan,

When is the last time you took something to the chrome shop to have it plated. Agreed, they do look nice, but I'm betting that it would be as expensive as a set of the repo cast aluminum ones are.

I took a chain ring, crank, handlebar stem, and two truss rod from one of my Schwinns in to be re-plated and was quoted $310. Big shot to the solar plexus. :eek:

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Some years ago a couple of us looked at a Wildcat for sale here in Minneapolis. The seller was the production manager of a commercial plating company and told us that most of their actual work was similar to that of a painter=extensive prep-required before the plating steps could begin=thus most of the cost. If a guy had the valve covers 'ready' for dip, the cost would be lower. Of course, some are all about extracting the most $ while others bill according to the actual work! Dan Mpls. Mn.

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The pieces I took in were "dip ready." I had done all of the prep work. That's why I was so staggered by the cost. As I got to thinking about it, I wondered if that was his way of saying "I don't want to work on pieces this small unless I can make the extra bucks."

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Dan,

When is the last time you took something to the chrome shop to have it plated. Agreed, they do look nice, but I'm betting that it would be as expensive as a set of the repo cast aluminum ones are.

I took a chain ring, crank, handlebar stem, and two truss rod from one of my Schwinns in to be re-plated and was quoted $310. Big shot to the solar plexus. :eek:

I agree and if I could not find a set of originals, I'd fork over the cash for a repro set and have them polished. The dress-up kit using the chromed steel covers is okay, but nothing beats the look of a nailhead with AL valve covers. Even if they're a bit more pricey, you'll be enjoying that look long after you've forgotten the extra money that you spent. There will come a day when you will not be able to buy either.

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