Cam sensor repair with JB weld

[Jim]

I printed out and gave to a mechanic a while ago the instructions on how to JB weld in the cam sensor magnet.

I just did the job successfully on my car but now I have a person looking for those instructions and cannot find them.

I believe they are on Ronnies site but searched and cannot find them.

Can someone please tell me where I can find the instructions so I can forward them.

Thanks, Jim

[padgett]

Code 41: lost cam magnet in 3800

[Machiner 55]

I was so impressed by this fix that I decided to take preemptive action with the engine I installed in my '90.

The first photo is of the cam magnet in the sprocket that came from the '90 Bonneville with 65k miles on it. You can see that it was already starting to fail as evidenced (yah, it is a word. I looked it up) by the cracked plastic. After cleaning the sprocket I installed the new cam-mag with a coating of JB weld. (next two photos) After another 65k, I'll take a look-see at it. I expect that it'll look just as it does now. Just a note... I kinda had to do something like this anyway because, before inserting the cam-mag into the hole, I pulled on the little retainer tabs to help it "snap" into place but, the only thing that snapped were the little tabs. I swear, I barely moved them. Flimsy little things that they are.

John F.

[Vincent Vega]

I suspect this was engineered to be something more durable like aluminum. Changed to plastic by a bean counter to save 5 cents. Changed to cheaper plastic by another bean counter to save 3 more cents.

[Jim]

Code 41: lost cam magnet in 3800

Padgett,

That is the instructions I was looking for and printed out last time and gave to a local mechanic so he could do my sister's Reatta and one other one. I will either print them out or send the location to the person needing the instructions.

I have a question for those who have done this. I just did it on my Select 60 and I thought I remember having done it many years ago that you could see in the hole by removing the tire and inner fender pieces and the small shock, but in doing it I could not see in the hole. I removed the water pump pulley and then using a mirror from above removed the remaining pieces of plastic from the gear and then had no problem JB welding in the new magnet according to the stated method. ( I will never make it as a dentist, I had a heck of a time working backwards in a mirror. )

I jacked my convertible up and I couldn't see in from below to do the job but in talking to the mechanic yesterday that did my sister's they had the car on a hoist and did it from below.

My question is, can it be done from below and can you see in the hole to remove the old plastic?

[Machiner 55]

Jim,

I don't know of any advantage to doing it from below except in the case of someone with back issues that can't endure being bent over the fender to work on the replacement. Even from below, I think one would still need a mirror because of the angle of attack. You could try a large 3" mirror attached to a magnetic base so that it would stay in position and free up a hand. The only thing else I can think of to make the job a bit more manageable is to remove the A.F. reservoir to give yourself more room. Had you asked this last week, I could have taken some pics from the wheel well with the protective panels removed. I'd just gotten done with a brake flush then.

John F.

Edited August 10, 2013 by Machiner 55 (see edit history)

[Guest crazytrain2]

I also used the JB weld method for replacing cam position sensor interupter magnet and so far so good. To make it easier to install the magnet (with the JB weld applied to it) I used a 1/4" socket extension (3" length) and inserted it through a small length of plastic straw. Then with the magnet on the end of the extension I installed it in place, grasped the straw and used it to maintain pressure against the magnet while I pulled the extension out. It worked pretty good for me and my sausage fingers ...lol. I've also included an illustration which I hope is clearer than my explanation and of some use to others.

[padgett]

I just slid the telecoping magnet sideways & off and pushed in with my finger to make sure it is fully seated.

[ssmithmiami]

I need to find a mechanic in Miami who will do this for me. The mechanic I have been using for all my Reatta repairs has done a great job on everything so far, but seems insistent that the Cam Sensor Magnet should be replaced the way it was installed from the factory instead of the "JB Weld" way. It looks to me like the "JB Weld" way would be a lot longer lasting, given that this is almost a standard replacement item on all Reattas after a certain number of miles. My Reatta has been driven with a bad magnet for many miles, but recently I am driving it a lot more often and would really like to get this done. Unfortunately, I am not mechanically inclined at all, and have no place to work on it. Anyone have any suggestions?

[Guest steveskyhawk]

I agree with your mechanic. Do it right the first time and the new magnet will last another 20 years

[harry yarnell]

NO. Epoxy it in from the front like we're ALL doing. It works.

[55chevy]

I need to find a mechanic in Miami who will do this for me. The mechanic I have been using for all my Reatta repairs has done a great job on everything so far, but seems insistent that the Cam Sensor Magnet should be replaced the way it was installed from the factory instead of the "JB Weld" way. It looks to me like the "JB Weld" way would be a lot longer lasting, given that this is almost a standard replacement item on all Reattas after a certain number of miles. My Reatta has been driven with a bad magnet for many miles, but recently I am driving it a lot more often and would really like to get this done. Unfortunately, I am not mechanically inclined at all, and have no place to work on it. Anyone have any suggestions?

Message Padgett in Orlando, Drive it up there, he would probably help, or someone closer.

[padgett]

GM developed the factory method because it requires mo drying time, just insert from the back and it is clamped in place. It is a good way to go if you need to replace the chain/sprockets/tensioner.

Mine had well under 100k miles & did not need a chain and suspect it was an age issue so I developed this faster/easier way.