Vic six clutch problems

[Guest BretK]

Well I was driving the car this morning, and all of a sudden it wouldn't shift without grinding unless the car was stationary. The clutch adjustment is maxed. Am I stuck with disassembly at this point? Do I need a new clutch? I am clueless.:confused: is it the clutch, transmission or what. Fluid levels are good. Shifts fine standing still.

Edited July 24, 2013 by BretK (see edit history)

[keiser31]

Sounds like a clutch or throwout bearing or both are in need of replacement.

[Guest BretK]

Anyone have a spare to sell?

[nearchoclatetown]

I think John is right. But BretK wouldn't it make more sense to take it apart and see what is wrong for sure? Then buy parts. I'm not following your discription. You said you can shift when the car is sitting stationery. Was the engine running when sitting ? Moving or not should not make a differance if the engine is running.

[Guest BretK]

Yes the engine was running, I can shift fine stationary, I am ot sur I totally understand the clutch transmission but it is as though the engine connection is not the problem it is the driveshaft end that is not working right. With the car sitting still, and engine running I can shift thru the gears using the clutch with no problems, but if the car is rolling, say and I want to go from 1st to second or second to third. I depress the pedal, it. Comes out of gear fine, I double clutch, but it does not go into the next gear without lots of grinding, not just speed matching the engine , but grinding like there is power behind it. Ie not like just a freewheeling of gears until speeds match but the car must be slowed to a stop to shift. I don't know how else to describe it, and as this is my first old car, I have nothing to compare it with. I just know this is not how it was working before.

[nearchoclatetown]

What it sounds like is that your clutch is not completely disengageing. You said you have no more adjustment. When you are sitting still and you shift into a low gear it MAY feel as if the car wants to move or the engine may sound differant, because the clutch is slipping and trying to engage. You need to take it apart. If the pressure plate feels OK now, you may get away with just a new disc. Or the bearing or linkage could be at fault. Check for loose pivot points in the linkage.

[Guest 1930]

Anyone have a spare to sell?

You can have your clutch re-surfaced in many instances and a modern sealed throwout bearing can replace you original greased unit. Do you realize that you have a grease tube, it needs to be filled and turned down every so often. If you need more info let me know.

[Guest BretK]

You can have your clutch re-surfaced in many instances and a modern sealed throwout bearing can replace you original greased unit. Do you realize that you have a grease tube, it needs to be filled and turned down every so often. If you need more info let me know.

Jason,

thanks, yes I have added and turned down the grease tube, any reccomendations on a shop to do the work on the clutch? I think by adjusting the linkage I was able to get a little more out of the clutch travel, but it will be a must do repair this fall/winter

bret

[Guest 1930]

I would not be able to recommend a shop in your area but I would suggest shopping around, years ago I too was in the market and I had one shop quote me as high as 4 hundred and change and the shop that ultimately did the work for roughly 75 or so dollars. Both were local shops found within the local yellow pages.

I try to stand clear of mentioning application, it seems at least in this area if they find out you have a toy than the price tags jumps considerably.

I am sure you are aware that it would be a good idea to have your pressure plate re-surfaced, I would also recommend that you have your flywheel balanced while it is all apart. I took my flywheel to a local shop, goodoleboy shop, they are honest and do good work. They told me that the flywheel nearly uprooted the surfacer from the concrete floor. It was VERY out of balance, made a big difference in how my car drove after being corrected, I was able to get a few more MPH and noticed a considerably smoother ride.

I seem to remember the possibility of having your flywheel/pressure plate/clutch assy balanced as a unit but I could be way of on this, makes sense to me and I am all for upgrading the engine in these small ways to promote longevity.

I understand that this is more info than you wanted but your post reminded me of some good points to think about.

There are at least two types or variations in how these engines were originally balanced, maybe machinest Bill or someone more knowledgeable will explain this so I do not have to dig up the info to satisfy at least my own curiosity but I do have the info somewhere if need be.

If I remember correctly some engines were balanced as at least a unit or partial unit meaning at least the crank and the flywheel were balanced as one unit, this type engine you would not want to do what I suggested above, then there is another type where parts are balanced individually and this ( I believe ) is your engine type and mine as well in which case it only makes sense to have your flywheel done while the trans is off.

Something to think about, well worth the effort and hopefully we will get some more feedback from other people more knowledgeable on the subject than I.

When you get ready to do the bearing let me know, slight modification to the throwout shaft is all that may be needed on your tranny if it is like mine ( which I am assuming it is ) and with this mod you can have a sealed bearing that will maybe outlast both of us.

Edited July 24, 2013 by 1930 (see edit history)

[Guest DodgeKCL]

I think the pilot shaft is sticking in the flywheel for some reason and the driver can't fully disengage the engine from the tranny. But there's not enough 'pull' to move the car at rest. Yes. No. Maybe.

[ahdodge]

Well here goes, IMHO: The clutch plate is a wear item and usually slips when reaching the end of it's useful life. It allows the transfer of power from the engine's flywheel to the transmission via a mechanical connection to the transmission input shaft . The clutch plate "rides" on this shaft, being squeezed against the flywheel by the pressure plate. When all is working well, it gives years of service. Most often , if the clutch plate is not disengaging, it is the result of inadequate leverage being applied by the throwout arm or bearing. As mentioned earlier the Vic 6 has a lubrication tube inside the car. Make sure it is properly lube, sometimes the grease can dry up. (Be careful not to overlube it). It could be , since you stated it was a sudden and unexpected action , that the clutch plate is not sliding or "riding" enough to fully disengage. Additionally, if the throwout bearing has failed, or somehow the linkage bent, you will get the same symptoms. Mr. Myer's has some bits and pieces if you find that to be the problem. I believe the reason the car shifts ok at rest is because the transmission input shaft is stationary.

If you are feeling adventurous, try removing the floorboards. Have your wife or girlfriend (but definitely not both) hold the light. Look for a square inspection cover on the bell housing of the transmission. Maybe you can remove this cover and see the worn or damaged part. Maybe you can pry with a screwdriver or lever and dislodge whatever is causing the mechanism to not properly work. Try working the clutch with your foot while doing this. Be sure to count your fingers whenever done.

Good Luck I have a Victory 6 roadster Tom

Edited July 29, 2013 by ahdodge (see edit history)

[Guest 1930]

Have your wife or girlfriend (but definitely not both)

I guess that may be where I went wrong

[cahartley]

If the pilot shaft was sticking he wouldn't be able to shift without crashing at all with the engine running.

As it is he can shift with the engine running, just not while driving......"but grinding like there is power behind it".

You say "this is my first old car" which leads me to think the problem might be how fast are you going between shifts?....... :confused:

Throw everything you know about shifting modern, synchro, trannys out the window and bear in mind double clutching won't save your posterior if you are moving too fast between gears.

I WISH my '25 Dodge shifted as decently as my '29 Model A but it doesn't........it's a crashbox of the highest order which is why I get my shifting out of the way at the lowest speeds possible and STAY in 3rd gear until I need to stop.

Am I on the right track?.......

BTW.......do you have 600 weight oil in the tranny AND rear end?

[Guest BretK]

So I have a question. I took a look underneath where the clutch pedal yoke is and there is still adjustment left there so if I screw it out, ie lengthen the distance of the actuating arm, it is like pushing in the clutch farther. If I do this it shifts ok, but ithe pedal wants to return farther than it can. If I leave it like this, isn't it like riding the clutch? It seems to engage well tho.

[robert b]

So I have a question. I took a look underneath where the clutch pedal yoke is and there is still adjustment left there so if I screw it out, ie lengthen the distance of the actuating arm, it is like pushing in the clutch farther. If I do this it shifts ok, but ithe pedal wants to return farther than it can. If I leave it like this, isn't it like riding the clutch? It seems to engage well tho.

Clutch adjustment is done on the flywheel by rotation cover under the three holding bolts, there is an arch of about degrees of travel in this adjustment. Next post show distance to adjust plate to. bob

[robert b]

Clutch adjustment is done on the flywheel by rotation cover under the three holding bolts, there is an arch of about degrees of travel in this adjustment. Next post show distance to adjust plate to. bob

Where the yellow dot is the setting point Bob