I had to have her - '65

[slosteve]

Hi SloSteve,

With the help of Joe B. (JWB65) on this board, I was able to remove my rear window on my '64 Sunday evening. On my '64 I show 8 screws across the bottom plate spaced approximately as follows (starting from the center):

1.5", 8.5", 15.25" and 21.6125" (that's 21 and five eighths).

Again, my numbers are from a '64, so I'm only assuming they're the same as your '65. The 1.5" measurement is from the *center* of the window, so if you lay out the measurements to the left, and then to the right, you should be very close to original.

In the spirit of of measuring twice and drilling once - I would wait for Ed to come back with his information to ensure they are similar to mine.

The new frame looks great.

Good luck.

Thanks for your effort also, Eric

While removing the hardened 'stickum' from my window molding I found these little divets. Pretty sure they're not from the factory and probably have something to do with why the PO needed something else to hold it in place.

Another project to sharpen my skills.

Steve

[Snake]

Yes, Napa has them like $10 a bag of 6 or more? I had the same type of damage on my rear window Chanel some of the studs were removed, just look at the pattern of studs or even measure them and add small SS screws they should hold the clips in. I did this with 10 in the rear window and 4 in front.

[RockinRiviDad]

...I found these little divets. Pretty sure they're not from the factory and probably have something to do with why the PO needed something else to hold it in place

DUDE! someone did not give a rats a$$ about preserving the condition of that stainless trim when removing it. Removing that trim is a PITA cuz the clips do not want to let go, they hold on for dear life. I tried for hours to avoid damaging my trim when I pulled mine off.

Those "divets" are from the clips. I could totally see that happening to me if I didn't take my time. I stepped back, had a beer & cautiously tried & tried until they let loose. Not fun...but either is the repair you now are faced with...

Here is that picture of the NAPA clips...less than $7 for 16 clips...not bad...I couldn't find the thread but I saved the pic cuz I will be heading over to buy some soon

[RivNut]

DUDE! I tried for hours to avoid damaging my trim when I pulled mine off.

Do you have this tool? It releases the spring tension on the clip and the moldings lift right off.

http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com...FUVo7Aodl1sAYw

[RockinRiviDad]

I have a similar one…definitely wasn't doing the trick. $10 bucks for that one…shot, ordering one now…thx

David

[Snake]

Thanks Dave , that's them and use a can bottle opener and a small screw driver for a tool put a cloth between the metal or glass before prying it and be gentle. If your sending your stainless to be polished the metal finisher (if he is good) will straighten out the molding.

[Eric's.64.Superwildcat]

Steve,

Which replacement clips (and part numbers) did you and up purchasing? Was it MR. G's part or did you end up going through NAPA? If so, were they a suitable replacement for the originals?

I'm about 6 months behind you for the re-installation of my rear window and I'd like to learn from your experience.

Thanks.

[slosteve]

Eric, I used the NAPA offerings, but haven't re-installed the window or moldings yet. They fit the nail-headed studs and are the correct size though.

Steve

[Paul K.]

Do you have this tool? It releases the spring tension on the clip and the moldings lift right off.

http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com...FUVo7Aodl1sAYw

Ed, your link does not work.

If the tool you are talking about it this one

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/oes-25338?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKEAjwwo2iBRCurdSQy9y8xWcSJABrrLiSGnXyIKp_3vg9gMS57l-twcorI6ch8cLA1wJaJBM7jhoCWfDw_wcB

One has to be careful to have an idea or feel just where the tip of this tool is when using it. When hunting for a clip under the trim and pulling on the tool, the tip of the tool can catch or strike the edge of the glass sending a big crack downward.

[RivNut]

Same tool.

I've never had any problems with this tool. I just lay the tool flat against the glass with the handle in a position so the tip of the tool is against the car body under the molding, slide it down until the tip of the tool catches the clip, then rotate the tool to release the spring tension in the clip. It might take a couple of tries to get a good idea how to catch the clip, but after that it's really quick.

Edited October 20, 2014 by RivNut (see edit history)

[Eric's.64.Superwildcat]

Ed,

I think Paul was saying that the link that you posted no longer functions. I tried clicking on it but the URL appears to have been truncated.

[RivNut]

Ed,

I think Paul was saying that the link that you posted no longer functions. I tried clicking on it but the URL appears to have been truncated.

I replied that the tool in my link that doesn't open is the same tool that he pictured.

I'm looking at other posts of "tricks" that others are using to remove the rear window and windshield moldings and it scares me that they're willing to have to rework the molding after prying it off. If you can't figure out how to use the tools designed for the job, by all means get your car to a glass shop and pay someone to remove the moldings for you. If you broke a windshield, do you think the guy replacing it would tear up the molding and repair it in order to get the glass out? No, he'd use a tool designed for that job and know how to use it.

Here's a link to a YouTube video showing the correct way to use the tool. If this young gal can do it without tearing up the moldings, you can too. Watch her method. There are better shots toward the end of the removal segment.

Those clips are spring loaded. The tool releases the spring tension and the molding lifts off.

The rest of the video show removal of old clips and installation of new clips, and re-installation of the molding.

GM, Ford, and Chrysler all used similar clips; different sizes, etc. but all use the same tool and technique.

I worked for a company for a while that went to car lots and did all sorts of repairs. In the mid 80's repainting the blacked out moldings on a Pontiac Firebird Trans-Am "Bandit" trim package or a Z-28 Camaro was a daily money maker. We could take off all of the moldings, scuff them for new paint, paint them, and re-install them quicker than you could mask them off. Could not have done it without the correct tool and technique.

Edited October 21, 2014 by RivNut (see edit history)

[RockinRiviDad]

I ended up finding this at my local jobber. I've never used such a tool before & it made my world a happy place. I LOVED it! Super easy to use.

David