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Parts strippers, paint, rust, etc.


Guest Foggy norm

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Guest Foggy norm

When someone mentions part's stripper's, the thought of a big vat of stripping agent pop's up, not so. I've taken part's to a professional stripper locally and was suprized the method of stripping was heat! BIG oven's! Informed that the temperature wasn't that bad, approximately 370?? and it may discolor chrome. Amazed at what this process accomplishes with rust (lucky anything was left). The temperature does bother me enough that I hesitate to take wire spoke wheels for this, thinking the heat (if this is the correct temp) may weaken the metal. Anybody use this process, any opinion......norman

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Guest Normbc9

I'm in my mid 70's and an old ranch kid. We used heat for breaking loose rusted bolts on our implements and on small things my grandfather would get out a gallon of Cider Vinegar and soak it for a day of two in a pan we had. It seemed to do wonders too. Thanks for the reminder Norm.

Normbc9

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370 should not hurt most metal parts . I have used a propane torch on very thick paint.

Normally I use electrolysis to remove rust and paint sheet metal or stamped parts.

This will not remove any metal and there is no hazardous waste if you do not use stainless steel for the anode.

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Guest Foggy norm

MikeC5, That's a new one, along with the Coca Cola, stripping could become a picnic. My concern is what will the heat do to wire wheel's.

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The molasses is pretty well documented, try Googling it. It's also cheap. I pay around $10 for a gallon of animal grade syrup (at TSC) and dilute it in a big plastic bucket. It does work well but slower than the other 'formulas' out there. It works faster at warm ambient temps if you have that luxury. It will also remove paint if left long enough.

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I don't have any scientific evidence one way or other. I can only say it did not seem to eat away clean metal when I did my engine splash shields which were too large to fully submerge in my bucket. Some cleaned areas were overlapped when I flipped them over and I saw no obvious signs of dissolving metal ( thickness was unchanged per dial caliper). YMMV...

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For small parts I've filled bucket with water and then added a can of the crystal drain cleaner(I used Draino), after a minute ot two add your old part ( with a lifting wire attached ) let it in there for a few minutes remove and wash it with clean water. It took all the paint and primer off for me. Caution--wear eye protection and gloves. Soda blasting works too and doesn't damage shrome or glass.

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I bought a 30 gal. plastic barrel (from the smell, it oncet held pickles) with a 14 inch opening in the top, a sealed screw-on lid, and a depth of 32 inches. I installed a drain valve 5 inches from the bottom. It is filled with 7 to 1 water/feed molassas. It sits in my basement, and has de-rusted all manner of parts that are now back on my 51 Buick, including exhaust manifold, clutch pressure plate,and scads of fasteners. The internet will explain the chemistry. I just know it works, though it takes time, and you get to scrub the residue off with water. (A pressure washer is useful.) It has two major advantages over a lot of speedier products: (1) it is dirt-cheap; and (2) you can safely stick your arm into it to pick up a part that has slipped off of whatever you intended to use to lift that part out of the vat.

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Guest Foggy norm

28 Chrysler...With winter moving in, there'll be plenty of time for experimenting. What it the biggest item you've done with this method, what is washing soda? I'm a sucker for this type of thing, beside's, I lost my hair a long time ago.......

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Washing Soda is a laundry / household cleaner.

The one I use is made by Arm & Hammer and comes in a 3 1/2 LB. box for about $3 at Wall Mart. ( this much will go a long way)

Look on line under "electrolysis rust removing " and you can see some videos.

The biggest parts I have done were 15 inch Dodge wheels in a 32 gallon plastic trash can.

I did see a guy who made a plastic lined wooden box that did the bottom 1/3 of a Chev PU door

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