Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham tranmission cooler lines brass fitting rusted to Radiator Help Please.

[Guest whats up yo]

Hi I need some in-put from someone who has been there ,What do you do when the Transmission cooler lines are rusted to the radiator Brass bolts and stainless line yep rusted carries cool water to transmission . The radiator leaks won't hold water when it gets hot so I have a rebuilt one and can't get the bolts loose if you turn them it will crimp the trans lines ,the brass bolts are supposed to spin free on the stainless lines tried Penetrating blaster Bolt oil . I have been told to cut them and splice on a rubber high pressure fuel line with screw down tighteners on each end. I hope someone can help who knows the facts. Thanks For looking

[joe_padavano]

Hi I need some in-put from someone who has been there ,What do you do when the Transmission cooler lines are rusted to the radiator Brass bolts and stainless line yep rusted carries cool water to transmission .

Well, two problems with this. First, brass doesn't rust. Second, there is no water going to the trans. These lines carry trans fluid to the radiator where a small heat exchanger inside the radiator cools the trans fluid. The problem you have is not that the fittings are rusted to the radiator. The steel fittings are actually rusted to the steel cooler lines. You have two choices. If you're lucky, you can soak the fittings with penetrating oil and hope that eventually they loosen up. More likely is that you will have to cut the hard lines just behind the fittings, unscrew the fittings from the radiator, and splice new sections of line with new nuts onto the ends of the old lines.

[NTX5467]

As I recall, the cooler lines attach directly to the trans cooler fittings themselves. As mentioned, the nuts on the cooler lines are "steel", not brass (although some might have some "coloring" on them to identify which is "input" or "output" from the cooler) . . . plus, the lines aren't "stainless", but softer steel which will kink or twist. Also, as mentioned, the lines carry transmission fluid to the heat exchanger which resides in that side of the radiator.

There were different size trans coolers, which relate to how far apart the fittings in the radiator tank are. I don't recall if the fittings might be the same size for both of them or if one is a slight bit smaller/larger than the other one, but be prepared if they are different.

I know that everybody has their favorite penetrating oil. I used some Pennzoil-brand spray penetrating oil on some rusted shock mounting bolts. As the rust is somewhat porous, the penetrating lubricant will wick into places you can't see. After I got them broke loose, more oil finished the job. In your case, you might soak the fittings and let them sit, then see if they'll gently move. Might also try tapping on the fittings, too, gently.

For the time being, to get things moving, if the fittings don't loosen-up with more attention, then I'd get a small tubing cutter and cut the existing cooler lines about 3" back of the fittings on the lines. Then you can get a new length of tubing at a local auto supply, of the correct size (IF both the fittings are the same size), use the tubing cutter to "halve" it, then use those for your new fittings on the radiator side of things. Again, for the sake of expediency, I'd get some reinforced power steering-spec hose to complete the splice situation from the chassis lines to the replacement radiator's lines. Later, if you desire, once things are working well with the radiator, you can possibly do "a proper line splice" of the two lines.

Just some additional thoughts,

NTX5467

[Rusty_OToole]

If you break the fittings loose the line will actually bend or twist slightly. If you squirt some penetrating oil on them and work back and forth, back and forth sometimes they come loose but usually not. If not, you can cut them off short with a tubing cutter and splice with a piece of rubber as suggested or scrap the whole line and put on a new one if you want 100% originality. By the way some cars come new from the factory with the lines spliced together in this way, it is perfectly safe especially if you take your flaring tool and bubble the ends slightly where the rubber goes on.

[Guest whats up yo]

Thanks Guy's I am digesting all this ,I tried to buy the lines today at Napa auto parts ,they suggested what you all said . Tomorrow is a new day thanks

[misterc9]

You can heat the fittings and they will break loose. A propane torch likely wont be hot enough. An acetylene torch will do it in no time. Heat up the fitting but not red . You might have to heat and cool more than once, just dont melt it.

[Coley]

The fittings are rusted to the line, so heat the LINE just in front of the fittings, NOT the fittings. This will push the rust back just enough to let them turn.

Soak with penetrating oil AFTER they are warmed up.

By heating the line you won't screw up the cooler.

[joe_padavano]

If this is a copper radiator with brass tanks, heating the lines runs the risk of melting the solder and causing a leak. If this is a newer aluminum radiator with plastic end tanks, heat will destroy it. Either way, I wouldn't risk it. Steel lines are cheap. Cut them, remove the flare nuts, splice in new line. You'd be done already.

[Coley]

You don't them to red hot, just enough to push the rust back and let the penetrating oil into the fittings.

I put a line wrench on the fittings and try to turn gently, as you heat the line.

The oil inside will help keep the heat even.

This won't hurt the radiator if it is copper, with brass tanks.