Detailing & Cleaning the Engine Compartment.

[ol' yeller]

It became apparent at the Portland show that I need to spend some quality time under the hood erasing some of the evidence of the 87,000 miles Marilyn has accumulated. In my defense, I have only owned her for 2 weeks. I had a bad experience with my V10 F250 when I did my usual engine cleaning routine. I shorted out a couple of coils as in that engine they are down in a well in the head. My usual routine was to start with a cold engine as I don't want to spray cold water on hot metal. I rinse the engine and compartment with a light spray of cold water avoiding/shielding components like electrical junction boxes and air intakes. I then use a very liberal dousing of Simple Green and let it set for 15 minutes. Any troublesome spots are wiped or brushed clean. Then another light rinse of water. I do NOT use a pressure washer. I also can't use a more powerful cleaning agent as the non environmentally safe rinse off cannot run into the sewer. The actual detailing of hoses and plastic is then done with protectorant. Gary D here had a great suggestion for the hood insulation as it doesn't clean up very well. He cleaned it well and then sprayed it with flat black paint. It looked awesome.

I'd appreciate any pointers to get the engine bay looking like new again and any warnings about either pitfalls in my approach or things to look out for. Thanks.

Greg

[Ronnie]

You can use aluminum foil to mold around items like the ICM/Coils, electrical devices & connectors and other things to protect them from water.

[Vincent Vega]

I use those cheap wood brushes to get in the tight spots. They work great on the corrugated wire looms. Try to get the the various colored wires really clean. Their contrasting colors always make it seem brighter under there. Low stream of water to rinse. Compressed air removes a lot of water quickly. I try to remove as many parts as I can to get to the paint. I use some cleaner wax where I can reach to freshen that up. It also makes it easier to keep clean. Stoner's Trim Shine returns the plastic parts to a very nice factory finish. I don't use Armor All under the hood because it's too shiny. I never get tired of hearing. "Wow, that's a really clean engine."

[olbuickman]

I stopped using hoses and water a few years ago. It is too risky with the electronics. When I detail my own or a customers car I use a mixture of Super Clean, a degreaser, and water. I wipe the entire engine compartment. I let it sit for just a few minutes and then using a bucket of clear water and a microfiber cloth wipe the area clean . When it is dry, I use 303 protectorant,it does not leave a greasy look to the hoses or plastics. Frank

[Guest Kitskaboodle]

If engine/tranny is kind of dirty & greasy Simple Green wont cut it.

It's evironmentally friendly yes, but it wont do a good job.

I suggest you "bite the bullet", get some good spray degreasers like Berryman's and just do it. (in the big can)

As mentioned, you can cover all eletrical connectors, alternator, etc... with tin foil or plastic bags and tape before

you rinse with the hose. It's a tiny bit risky but if you want to get things really clean you will have to just take a chance.

Here's a tip that I like to share to get your tranny housing & heat shields nice & clean: Use SOS pads on them.

SOS is good stuff and has grease cutters built in.

Kit

[Guest Kitskaboodle]

I stopped using hoses and water a few years ago. It is too risky with the electronics. When I detail my own or a customers car I use a mixture of Super Clean, a degreaser, and water. I wipe the entire engine compartment. I let it sit for just a few minutes and then using a bucket of clear water and a microfiber cloth wipe the area clean . When it is dry, I use 303 protectorant,it does not leave a greasy look to the hoses or plastics. Frank

Super Clean? Is that the stuff in the purple jug?

If so, be careful how much of it you use. That stuff is WAY powerful.

I used it on my Fiero and it practically ruined the inside part of my front hood.

My mistake was to use it in full strength on any painted surface!

Kit

[olbuickman]

KitskaboodI never use the the lSuper clean full strength I always dilute it even when i clean my epoxy garage floor. I have a gallon of it and by dilluting it, it lasts forever. Frank

[Guest Corvanti]

about 4 years ago, i picked up the earlier model of this: Amazon.com: McCulloch MC-1275 Heavy-Duty Steam Cleaner: Home & Kitchen

it has extensions, like a vacuum cleaner, so it can stay on the ground, but i usually sit it up on the front area near the radiator. i used a "gunk" type engine cleaner, but found "simple green" works just as well if it was on the areas to be cleaned saturated for around 25 to 30 minutes before use of the steam cleaner .

as a bonus, the "ex Mrs. Corvanti" used it quite a bit to clean house baseboards, bathroom tile, etc. after i showed her how it would "help" her.

one product i would only recommend if it's a vehicle that you want to sell is: "gunk engine protector -shine". it looks great after cleaning, but is sticky as heck to the touch for months!

[SeanR]

It became apparent at the Portland show that I need to spend some quality time under the hood erasing some of the evidence of the 87' date='000 miles Marilyn has accumulated. In my defense, I have only owned her for 2 weeks. I had a bad experience with my V10 F250 when I did my usual engine cleaning routine. I shorted out a couple of coils as in that engine they are down in a well in the head. My usual routine was to start with a cold engine as I don't want to spray cold water on hot metal. I rinse the engine and compartment with a light spray of cold water avoiding/shielding components like electrical junction boxes and air intakes. I then use a very liberal dousing of Simple Green and let it set for 15 minutes. Any troublesome spots are wiped or brushed clean. Then another light rinse of water. I do NOT use a pressure washer. I also can't use a more powerful cleaning agent as the non environmentally safe rinse off cannot run into the sewer. The actual detailing of hoses and plastic is then done with protectorant. Gary D here had a great suggestion for the hood insulation as it doesn't clean up very well. He cleaned it well and then sprayed it with flat black paint. It looked awesome.

I'd appreciate any pointers to get the engine bay looking like new again and any warnings about either pitfalls in my approach or things to look out for. Thanks.

Greg[/quote']

You saw mine. I just pressure washed it at the car wash without pulling the trigger. I had tons of oil gunk on the engine frame and between the exhaust manifold and radiator area near the wiring looms. I then wiped it all down. The only obvious things to avoid spraying directly would be the alternator and MAF sensors.