Jump to content

A/C Compressor


Roadster90

Recommended Posts

I need a compressor and condensor for my 90 coupe. Some of us were buying from TechChoice (I replaced this compressor with one from TechChoice in June of 2010 and it is leaking) but I just called and they have the compressor on back order. Can I get some other suggestions on a good place to purchase a/c "stuff" Their price on the compressor is 168.00 and the condensor 63.00. Any suggestions and help will be appreciated...

Thanks,

Nic

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I will echo the sentiment not to buy rebuilt, whatever you do. Rebuilt compressors and alternators have an unacceptably high failure rate, and are not worth the money saved. Especially when you consider the aggravation of having to do the job again, and your time is worth something.

The price Ronnie quoted for a genuine new AC/Delco unit is about as good as I've seen. Make sure it has the right connector design at at the compressor - some (early, probably 88 and 89) used O-rings. I know 91 used flat seals made of rubber with a metal outer ring, not sure about 90, or if there was a running change mid-year. Hopefully Padgett will see this and answer as he seems to know the A/C systems pretty well. Note that this difference affects both the compressor and the pressure hose block where it connects to the compressor.

KDirk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Nic,

I just did an AC job last week on my '89. Because I am a poor but honest working man I chose to go with a reman. compressor from Advance auto which had, at the time, a 20% discount and free shipping on orders over $75.00 if ordered online.

Driveworks Compressor PN: DW57867 $182.99 W/20% discount of $36.60 = $146.92

Factory Air Accumulator PN: T33178 $ 21.99 W/20% discount of $4.40 = $ 17.59

Visteon Condenser PN: 2107 $139.99 W/ $50.00 coupon from previous order. $ 89.99

Total: $344.97 - Discounted price: $254.50 = $90.47 Savings.

Had I not just gotten done with a complete AC system change-out on my Wife's Olds, which included a new not reman. compressor, and new tires on my Son's car and new pitman arm, idler arm assembly and alignment on my GMC truck, I would have gone with a new compressor on the Reatta. But, due to the reasons listed above, I did not.

I'll try to post to let you know if/when the reman. comp. fails. In the meantime I have to say that the reman. that I installed on the Reatta is not, by any means, a quiet running unit. It makes a puttering kind of noise. At first I thought I might have a Harmonic Balancer problem because of the noise and it's location but I had my Son turn off the AC while I was under the car and the noise went away then came back after engaging the AC again.

The Comp. on my wife's car is very quiet. If it weren't for the clacking of the clutch, you wouldn't even know it was running.

Just my 2cents.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I will echo the sentiment not to buy rebuilt, whatever you do. Rebuilt compressors and alternators have an unacceptably high failure rate, and are not worth the money saved. Especially when you consider the aggravation of having to do the job again, and your time is worth something.

The price Ronnie quoted for a genuine new AC/Delco unit is about as good as I've seen. Make sure it has the right connector design at at the compressor - some (early, probably 88 and 89) used O-rings. I know 91 used flat seals made of rubber with a metal outer ring, not sure about 90, or if there was a running change mid-year. Hopefully Padgett will see this and answer as he seems to know the A/C systems pretty well. Note that this difference affects both the compressor and the pressure hose block where it connects to the compressor.

KDirk

You are correct about two different connectors being used. That is why I have two ACDelco compressors listed in the Reatta Store. They both look the same and are priced the same but they have different connectors. From my research only the '88 model year used the blade type connector but it is possible some '89 models had it as well.

This photo show the differences:

compressor_connectors.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Gentlemen for the great information. Greatly appreciated.....

Will most likely go with the Delco on Ronnie's site...

****Ronnie, I also see a condensor for early models on your site - do you offer one not listed or have suggestions for a condensor for a 90 model please ?

Thanks Much,

Nic

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok,

Ronnie made an important post just above, regarding the wiring connector difference. This is in addition to the difference in the refrigeration line connector block I was referring to previously, so there are TWO differences between the early and late compressors. Needless to say, order accordingly. I seem to recall when I bought the unit for my 91 that it came with an adapter harness in the box to go from one type of electrical connector to the other. I didn't need it for the 91, but hopefully this is still the case and it will be supplied if you do need it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Gentlemen for the great information. Greatly appreciated.....

Will most likely go with the Delco on Ronnie's site...

****Ronnie, I also see a condensor for early models on your site - do you offer one not listed or have suggestions for a condensor for a 90 model please ?

Thanks Much,

Nic

Nic, I apologize for not seeing your question about the condenser sooner. I didn't have a condenser in The Reatta Store for a '90-91 but I do now. I just added it. I also added the filter/dryer/accumulators as well and will be adding more AC parts soon. for a '90-91 but I do now. I just added it. I also added the filter/dryer/accumulators as well and will be adding more AC parts soon. Edited by Ronnie (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Might I suggest that you add the orfice tubes and the hose assemblies to your store as these should also be changed out when replacing a compressor.

Maybe include flush kits and vacuum pumps (compressed air and motor driven) as well as Gauge Manifold sets.

I will certainly look into all those items. I have two different ACDelco orifice tubes listed on the last page in the AC category. Are there others I should add?

I have took a brief look at adding hoses and getting it straight which hoses fit which years can be quite challenging. If you could offer any help with that it would be appreciated.

The flush kits will be added. Could someone recommend a good one?

I will be happy to add the AC tools as well. Any recommendations for good ones at a good price?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As far as parts recomendations, I'm afraid I could only tell you what AZ or Advance lists on their sites.

When working on the wifes car, I used all new parts except for the evaporator.

On the Reatta job I did the same with the exception of reusing the hose assembly as it has only one muffler and I felt (hoped)

that I'd be able to completely flush any contaminants out. The attached photo is what I've been using lately to flush the system parts. I remove everything from the car except the evaporator and flush the components seperatly. For what I've spent using the disposable cans of flush (about $17.00 ea.), I could've bought a nice flush gun kit. (Sometimes I spend more trying to save money.) As far as a recomendation for a kit, I have none.

I'm going to post this and edit it later once I figure out (again) to resize the image for upload.<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

post-67519-143139136353_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mc_Reatta, Thanks for the inquiry....my system still has dye in it from a previous repair and a friend that that was helping me found the compresssor and the condensor leaking when he tested it the other day. We recharged the system as a tempory measure as it is hot here - after 3 days of driving about 50 miles a day with a/c usage it is blowing hot air again :(

Nic

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Mc_Reatta

Good enough, condensers rarely spring a leak unless physically damaged somehow like from a stone chip or something hitting it.

If you can find the hole or crack you can braise it shut if your handy with a torch and solider used for sweating copper pipe joints.

If not, your just as well off to replace, as the labor rate to pay for that would be as much or more than a new one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...