2seater Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 I looked at the crank I just got back from balancing, an '89 I think, and it has an "X" stamped in the end of the snout. The stamping is distinct but not very deep like Padgett's is. The end of the crank snout has a large chamfer, so it would seem a punch mark would not upset the outer diameter. Padgett's looks pretty deep, is a peculiar shape and may be several separate hits, so maybe??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted March 8, 2019 Share Posted March 8, 2019 I think the mark on the end of the crankshaft might have been the result of the machining process when it was made. I was trained a little on running a crankshaft grinder. It doesn't leave a mark like that but maybe the machine at the factory that cuts the keyway does. 2seater, is the X on your crankshaft at the same location in relation to the keyway as Padgett's? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted March 8, 2019 Share Posted March 8, 2019 3 hours ago, 2seater said: I looked at the crank I just got back from balancing, an '89 I think, and it has an "X" stamped in the end of the snout. The stamping is distinct but not very deep like Padgett's is. The end of the crank snout has a large chamfer, so it would seem a punch mark would not upset the outer diameter. Padgett's looks pretty deep, is a peculiar shape and may be several separate hits, so maybe??? 2seater if that is the engine I gave you with the ultra low miles, it's an '88. Remember I was after the '88 cam? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted March 8, 2019 Share Posted March 8, 2019 1 minute ago, DAVES89 said: 2seater if that is the engine I gave you with the ultra low miles, it's an '88. Remember I was after the '88 cam? Dave, I thought you used the low mile good parts from the '88? If that's the '88, so much the better for me😎 It does measure good, and just had the oil holes chamfered and journals polished. Ronnie, The X is in a similar position, perhaps slightly more clockwise? Are you thinking it is some sort of index mark, maybe before the keyway is cut, which would seem to be a more robust way of alignment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted March 8, 2019 Share Posted March 8, 2019 15 minutes ago, 2seater said: Ronnie, The X is in a similar position, perhaps slightly more clockwise? Are you thinking it is some sort of index mark, maybe before the keyway is cut, which would seem to be a more robust way of alignment. I'm thinking when the keyway is cut, the crankshaft is chucked up on centers and indexed to the correct position to cut the keyway. Then a device with the X on the end is pressed up against the end of the crank to keep it from turning on the centers while the keyway is cut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted March 8, 2019 Share Posted March 8, 2019 1 hour ago, Ronnie said: I'm thinking when the keyway is cut, the crankshaft is chucked up on centers and indexed to the correct position to cut the keyway. Then a device with the X on the end is pressed up against the end of the crank to keep it from turning on the centers while the keyway is cut. Ahh, so. I know little about the steps involved but I guess something must come first🤔 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted March 8, 2019 Share Posted March 8, 2019 9 minutes ago, 2seater said: Ahh, so. I know little about the steps involved but I guess something must come first🤔 I was just taking a guess as to what might have made the mark on the end. It would be interesting to know for sure.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted March 8, 2019 Share Posted March 8, 2019 It's been some time and maybe your memory is better. I got that low mileage '88 engine from Rhinelander Auto and the engine was left "open" and was corroded in a couple of cylinders. I got a full refund and was allowed to keep the engine which I then gave you after stripping off the parts I wanted leaving you with the block, crank and heads. I then bought a different engine [a '89] and had it rebuilt using the low mileage cam, timing chain/gears and intake/exhaust manifolds. You also helped with higher compression pistons to give me a bit more power. The builder also did a little cylinder head work and we cleaned up the exhaust manifolds for better flow. After I was all done with the build and install I used your calculations and ended up just a bit shy of 200 HP which for a mostly stock build is just about what I was looking for. No redoing chips or too much power to the stock tranny. Other then the timing gear "hiccup" i ended up with a good engine and you got a block in great shape. That's what I remember. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guinadams Posted March 9, 2019 Share Posted March 9, 2019 (edited) Does anyone know what size crankshaft pulley bolt it is for a 99 pontiac grand am se 2.4 L? Need help asap please! Edited March 9, 2019 by Guinadams (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted March 15, 2019 Share Posted March 15, 2019 And finally got a round tuit and the rebuilt balancer just slipped on. Was loose enough I could rotate to engage key & push in rest of way. No idea why the old one came off so hard. Now the issue I have is that my torque wrenches only go to 150 lb-ft and the book calls for 219. Only thing I can do is to apply a impact to get more but then will have no idea how much "more". Am at about 140 lb-ft at the moment. Question is "does it need 219 ?" - any one run less ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted March 15, 2019 Share Posted March 15, 2019 1 hour ago, padgett said: Am at about 140 lb-ft at the moment. Question is "does it need 219 ?" - any one run less ? I think it needs to be really tight since it is a slip fit instead of a taper fit. I tightened mine to 150 with the torque wrench and then used a breaker bar and a three foot piece of pipe to pull on it some more. Don't know how tight it is but I don't think I have it too tight because the breaker bar and pipe wouldn't break the bolt loose. I had to use the starter to do that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted March 18, 2019 Share Posted March 18, 2019 Well it is all back together. First got my 150lb beam wrench past the end of the scale, then put an impact on it for a while. Not sure of I made 209 but it is close and runs smooth. Ready to go though getting the wheel/tire back on when only a foot from the wall was fun. Not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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