How to remove stubborn harmonic balancer (aka crankshaft pulley) bolt

[2seater]

I looked at the crank I just got back from balancing, an '89 I think, and it has an "X" stamped in the end of the snout. The stamping is distinct but not very deep like Padgett's is. The end of the crank snout has a large chamfer, so it would seem a punch mark would not upset the outer diameter. Padgett's looks pretty deep, is a peculiar shape and may be several separate hits, so maybe??? 

[Ronnie]

I think the mark on the end of the crankshaft might have been the result of the machining process when it was made. I was trained a little on running a crankshaft grinder. It doesn't leave a mark like that but maybe the machine at the factory that cuts the keyway does.  2seater, is the X on your crankshaft at the same location in relation to the keyway as Padgett's?

[DAVES89]

3 hours ago, 2seater said:

I looked at the crank I just got back from balancing, an '89 I think, and it has an "X" stamped in the end of the snout. The stamping is distinct but not very deep like Padgett's is. The end of the crank snout has a large chamfer, so it would seem a punch mark would not upset the outer diameter. Padgett's looks pretty deep, is a peculiar shape and may be several separate hits, so maybe??? 

2seater if that is the engine I gave you with the ultra low miles, it's an '88. Remember I was after the '88 cam?

[2seater]

1 minute ago, DAVES89 said:

2seater if that is the engine I gave you with the ultra low miles, it's an '88. Remember I was after the '88 cam?

Dave, I thought you used the low mile good parts from the '88? If that's the '88, so much the better for me😎 It does measure good, and just had the oil holes chamfered and journals polished.

 

Ronnie, The X is in a similar position, perhaps slightly more clockwise? Are you thinking it is some sort of index mark, maybe before the keyway is cut, which would seem to be a more robust way of alignment.

[Ronnie]

15 minutes ago, 2seater said:

Ronnie, The X is in a similar position, perhaps slightly more clockwise? Are you thinking it is some sort of index mark, maybe before the keyway is cut, which would seem to be a more robust way of alignment.

I'm thinking when the keyway is cut, the crankshaft is chucked up on centers and indexed to the correct position to cut the keyway. Then a device with the X on the end is pressed up against the end of the crank to keep it from turning on the centers while the keyway is cut.

[2seater]

1 hour ago, Ronnie said:

I'm thinking when the keyway is cut, the crankshaft is chucked up on centers and indexed to the correct position to cut the keyway. Then a device with the X on the end is pressed up against the end of the crank to keep it from turning on the centers while the keyway is cut.

Ahh, so. I know little about the steps involved but I guess something must come first🤔

[Ronnie]

9 minutes ago, 2seater said:

Ahh, so. I know little about the steps involved but I guess something must come first🤔

I was just taking a guess as to what might have made the mark on the end. It would be interesting to know for sure..

[DAVES89]

It's been some time and maybe your memory is better. I got that low mileage '88 engine from Rhinelander Auto and the engine was left "open" and was corroded in a couple of cylinders. I got a full refund and was allowed to keep the engine which I then gave you after stripping off the parts I wanted leaving you with the block, crank and heads. I then bought a different engine [a '89] and had it rebuilt using the low mileage cam, timing chain/gears and intake/exhaust manifolds.

  You also helped with higher compression pistons to give me a bit more power. The builder also did a little cylinder head work and we cleaned up the exhaust manifolds for better flow.

 After I was all done with the build and install I used your calculations and ended up just a bit shy of 200 HP which for a mostly stock build is just about what I was looking for. No redoing chips or too much power to the stock tranny. Other then the timing gear "hiccup" i ended up with a good engine and you got a block in great shape.

 That's what I remember. 

[Guinadams]

Does anyone know what size crankshaft pulley bolt it is for a 99 pontiac grand am se 2.4 L? Need help asap please!

Edited March 9, 2019 by Guinadams (see edit history)

[padgett]

And finally got a round tuit and the rebuilt balancer just slipped on. Was loose enough I could rotate to engage key & push in rest of way. No idea why the old one came off so hard. Now the issue I have is that my torque wrenches only go to 150 lb-ft and the book calls for 219. Only thing I can do is to apply a impact to get more but then will have no idea how much "more".

 

Am at about 140 lb-ft at the moment. Question is "does it need 219 ?" - any one run less ?

[Ronnie]

1 hour ago, padgett said:

Am at about 140 lb-ft at the moment. Question is "does it need 219 ?" - any one run less ?

I think it needs to be really tight since it is a slip fit instead of a taper fit.  I tightened mine to 150 with the torque wrench and then used a breaker bar and a three foot piece of pipe to pull on it some more. Don't know how tight it is but I don't think I have it too tight because the breaker bar and pipe wouldn't break the bolt loose. I had to use the starter to do that.

[padgett]

Well it is all back together. First got my 150lb beam wrench past the end of the scale, then put an impact on it for a while. Not sure of I made 209 but it is close and runs smooth.

 

Ready to go though getting the wheel/tire back on when only a foot from the wall was fun. Not.