P Bohlig Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 I finally got around to ordering a pair of 2 & 1/2 degree caster wedges from NAPA. The NAPA part # is 2644104. The part had a wide deep groove on the bigger side and it looks like it slides in. The Chilton 1931 reproduction book lists caster as 2 & 2/3 degrees. Could not find one that precise. Presently have no caster shim or a way to measure current caster.The questions are:1. The fat end goes to the front?2. It appears the front axle must have an indentation on each side for the bolt head or the nut for the bolt holding the 9 spring leaves together? If true this would help align the springs, frame and wheels?3. If I loosen the 4 nuts on each side of the bracket which holds the spring to the axle and slide in the shim will the bolt head or nut still be enough in the indentation in the axle?4. I would rather slip the shim in than have take out the bolt holding the 9 leaves together and then run the bolt through the shim and the leaves.Several people on this forum have added caster and I would appreciate a post from someone who has installed them on this type of axle setup explaining how they installed the caster wedge.ThanksPaul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gundog99 Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 (edited) . 2 1/2 degrees seems excessive . What is the length of the wedge, the thickness of the sharp end and the thickness of the fat end? Edited June 21, 2012 by gundog99 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P Bohlig Posted June 21, 2012 Author Share Posted June 21, 2012 4 and !/4 inches longSharp end thickness 1/16 inchFat end thickness 1/4 inchPaul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 I finally got around to ordering a pair of 2 & 1/2 degree caster wedges from NAPA. The NAPA part # is 2644104. The part had a wide deep groove on the bigger side and it looks like it slides in. The Chilton 1931 reproduction book lists caster as 2 & 2/3 degrees. Could not find one that precise. Presently have no caster shim or a way to measure current caster.The questions are:1. The fat end goes to the front?2. It appears the front axle must have an indentation on each side for the bolt head or the nut for the bolt holding the 9 spring leaves together? If true this would help align the springs, frame and wheels?3. If I loosen the 4 nuts on each side of the bracket which holds the spring to the axle and slide in the shim will the bolt head or nut still be enough in the indentation in the axle?4. I would rather slip the shim in than have take out the bolt holding the 9 leaves together and then run the bolt through the shim and the leaves.Several people on this forum have added caster and I would appreciate a post from someone who has installed them on this type of axle setup explaining how they installed the caster wedge.ThanksPaulPaul, dont know if you realize it but you can by a very inexpensive inclonometer at harbor freight that will do just fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gundog99 Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 1) The fat side should be facing the back of the car. 3) Make show the hole in the middle of the wedge is large enough for the spring nut/bolt to fit into.4)slip the shim in,there is no need to undo the leaf bolt.I think if you wedge was 1/8 rather than 1/4 it would be more than sufficient;that is the size I fitted to my front axle, which completely stop the wheels shimming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest John1918 Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 Hi Paul, I have been battling this problem for 3 years now and finally reached a satisfactory solution. I copied and pasted my last post which I made in March 2012. It may be of help. The car is now lighter in the steering and does tend to wander a bit but overall it is MUCH nicer to drive now. JohnRe: Victory Six Steering<!-- google_ad_section_end --> <!-- google_ad_section_start -->At last, after trying almost everything and thinking I had cured the problem each time I have had a breakthrough. I asked all of the owners of cars which didn't have the problem to check, and yes, every car had wedges between the front axle and the springs. I looked through my pile of spares and located a Standard 6 axle with springs attached and that had wedges that looked like they had been there a long time. I transferred the wedges to my car and the problem was gone! Now as I go over rough ground I can still feel a slight "rattle" in the steering but it dissappears straight away. The wedge size is 4" x 1 3/4" x 1/4" with a 5/8" hole in the centre. The 1/4" tapers to zero at the other end and the wedge is installed with the fat end at the FRONT, the leading edge of the axle. Easy to install, loosen off the U-bolts enough to let the bolt through the spring locate in the 5/8" hole in the wedge and jack up the car with the jack under the spring. John<!-- google_ad_section_end --> <FIELDSET class=postcontent><LEGEND> Attached Thumbnails</LEGEND> </FIELDSET> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P Bohlig Posted June 23, 2012 Author Share Posted June 23, 2012 Thanks; your post was what I was looking for but could not locate. I did buy an angle gauge from Harbor Freight. It is digital. The passenger side read 89.90 or a caster of 0.1. The driver side read 89.3 or a 0.7 caster. Awful hot in the afternoons here, around 100 f. So, need to work oon it early.Paul Bohlig, Dallas Texas area Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 There is a minimum or reccomended caster angle for your car and if you cannot find it let me know. I have it, just dont know where. All I can try and do is find it if needed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gundog99 Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 I have sent you a P M Camber 2 1/2 deg, Caster 2 2/3 deg and toe-in 1/8 1nch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 I have sent you a P M Camber 2 1/2 deg, Caster 2 2/3 deg and toe-in 1/8 1nchVery nice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P Bohlig Posted June 24, 2012 Author Share Posted June 24, 2012 Thanks for your help. Now the difficult part: getting the 4 nuts off each spring holder. I have tried W-D 40 and Liquid Wrench. I got one nut to move on driver's side using a 3/4 inch wrench with a 2 foot braker bar extension. On another nut the only thing which seemed to move was the torsion on the wrench. In the past I have tried using heat. And other times have broken off bolts by trying too much torque.Don't know if it is old age or humility. But would appreciate your thoughts on what worked for you.Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 I heat the nuts along with a good spray, get the nut hot than I douse it with the spray and let it fizzle and keep spraying it in knowing its working its way down Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 I always try to tighten before loosening. It usually works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCE Posted October 23, 2023 Share Posted October 23, 2023 Interesting older thread! So is the thick part of the wedge to front or rear of the vehicle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minibago Posted October 23, 2023 Share Posted October 23, 2023 3 hours ago, DCE said: Interesting older thread! So is the thick part of the wedge to front or rear of the vehicle? The front wheels on a car should have positive castor, to achieve this the front axle is tilted back from the vertical (on our cars by way of the kingpins) On a car with the spring mounted on top of the axle. Adding tapered shims to the top of the axle below the spring will require the thick end to be to the rear of the car. On a car with the spring mounted below the axle. Adding tapered shims to the bottom of the axle on top of the spring the thick end needs to be towards the front of the car. In each of the above examples mentioned the tapered shim tilts the axle top backwards from the vertical providing positive camber. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCE Posted October 23, 2023 Share Posted October 23, 2023 Hello Mini, Thanks for the great information! Much appreciated! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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