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Starts, runs, stops.


Guest RedRocket
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Guest RedRocket

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Basically what happens. The engine starts fine, and it runs okay. After maybe ten minutes or so the idle begins to drop, but there's no problem if I step on the gas a little. I've checked the ICM, and it seemed fine.

I want to check the Idle Air Control next, but...I have no idea where it's located, even after hours of research on the interwebs. :/

All help would be appreciated! I'd love for my first car to actually perform well on the street. Can't have it dying at red lights and wasting gas. Can someone please tell me where the IAC is? Bonus points if it's right in front of my face.

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Don't know what year you have. It might become important later.

I would also try a Mass Air Flow sensor. It is the little almost square black thing held in place by three screws with one electrical connector. It is located on the big aluminum air piece that goes between the plenum and the rubber air tube [which connects to the air filter box].

You can buy new or if you are a "junker" like me buy them at a salvage yard. You just need to look for a "C" in the VIN code...

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Guest RedRocket

The year is '88, and I just found out the IAC is brand new. I just changed out the MAF (from the Spare Reatta), and there's another problem I'm having.

The battery appears to die every two days. I'm not really sure what's causing the battery drainage, unless I've just got a bad battery.

Thanks guys, for the help. The battery is on the charger and in a little bit I'll give it a crank and see if the RPMs drop. Usually it'll idle around 1050-1075-1100, then drop 100 RPM at a time. :/

I've already check the ICM for damage, and it was fine.

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Basically what happens. The engine starts fine, and it runs okay. After maybe ten minutes or so the idle begins to drop, but there's no problem if I step on the gas a little....
Usually it'll idle around 1050-1075-1100, then drop 100 RPM at a time....
You do realize that what you are describing is normal after a cold start if the RPM goes down to around 700 RPM and stabilizes? If it dies all the time that is a different story. Edited by Ronnie (see edit history)
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Guest RedRocket
You do realize that what you are discribing is normal after a cold start if the RPM goes down to around 700 RPM and stabilizes?

Sorry, I'm only sixteen and I should've known that. But the problem was that it didn't stabilize.

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Sorry, I'm only sixteen and I should've known that. But the problem was that it didn't stabilize.
No problem at all. There's nothing wrong with being sixteen. I wish I was again. :D I just didn't know if you were a new owner and not familiar with the normal operation of the engine in the Reatta.
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If the IAC is new, I would suspect this issue has been going on for a while. It still doesn't hurt to take a look inside to see if the passage was cleaned properly. Padgett mentions the stainless steel screws which are non-magnetic, take care with them. Check also for vacuum leaks, particularly the PCV system which is on the passengers rear of the raised portion of the intake manifold. It is buried under wiring harnesses so is easy to overlook. Usually small vacuum leaks will raise the idle speed but larger ones will cause stalling, and you may be able to hear it. Check all of the hoses closely, including the ones at the rear of the vacuum block going toward the firewall. If it takes several minutes for the problem to appear, it possibly is when it goes into closed loop operation and one of the sensors is acting up. Any codes?

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Guest RedRocket
If the IAC is new, I would suspect this issue has been going on for a while. It still doesn't hurt to take a look inside to see if the passage was cleaned properly. Padgett mentions the stainless steel screws which are non-magnetic, take care with them. Check also for vacuum leaks, particularly the PCV system which is on the passengers rear of the raised portion of the intake manifold. It is buried under wiring harnesses so is easy to overlook. Usually small vacuum leaks will raise the idle speed but larger ones will cause stalling, and you may be able to hear it. Check all of the hoses closely, including the ones at the rear of the vacuum block going toward the firewall. If it takes several minutes for the problem to appear, it possibly is when it goes into closed loop operation and one of the sensors is acting up. Any codes?

Problem solved by changing out the MAF. Thanks for your help guys!

Thought I'd have a problem with the brakes, but after a few minutes everything was okay.

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