Guest RedRocket Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 ^|Basically what happens. The engine starts fine, and it runs okay. After maybe ten minutes or so the idle begins to drop, but there's no problem if I step on the gas a little. I've checked the ICM, and it seemed fine. I want to check the Idle Air Control next, but...I have no idea where it's located, even after hours of research on the interwebs. :/ All help would be appreciated! I'd love for my first car to actually perform well on the street. Can't have it dying at red lights and wasting gas. Can someone please tell me where the IAC is? Bonus points if it's right in front of my face. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 Welcome to the forum!!It is in the center of the photo below. It is shown with the wiring connector disconnected. Here is link to instructions for cleaning it.IAC Cleaning Instructions*-*ReattaOwner.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RedRocket Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 Welcome to the forum!!It is in the center of the photo below. It is shown with the wiring connector disconnected. Here is link to instructions for cleaning it.IAC Cleaning Instructions*-*ReattaOwner.comThank you so much! I hope this fixes the problem. ^^ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 Don't know what year you have. It might become important later. I would also try a Mass Air Flow sensor. It is the little almost square black thing held in place by three screws with one electrical connector. It is located on the big aluminum air piece that goes between the plenum and the rubber air tube [which connects to the air filter box]. You can buy new or if you are a "junker" like me buy them at a salvage yard. You just need to look for a "C" in the VIN code... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 When removing the IAC, spread a soft cloth underneath. The two screws are small, easy to drop, and non-magnetic unobtanium. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RedRocket Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 The year is '88, and I just found out the IAC is brand new. I just changed out the MAF (from the Spare Reatta), and there's another problem I'm having. The battery appears to die every two days. I'm not really sure what's causing the battery drainage, unless I've just got a bad battery. Thanks guys, for the help. The battery is on the charger and in a little bit I'll give it a crank and see if the RPMs drop. Usually it'll idle around 1050-1075-1100, then drop 100 RPM at a time. :/I've already check the ICM for damage, and it was fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 The link below might help you troubleshoot your battery going down.How To Measure Battery Drain*-*ReattaOwner.comBTW, I'm not posting links to my website to get you away from this forum. My website is frequently used by a lot of members of this forum to help solve their problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 (edited) Basically what happens. The engine starts fine, and it runs okay. After maybe ten minutes or so the idle begins to drop, but there's no problem if I step on the gas a little....Usually it'll idle around 1050-1075-1100, then drop 100 RPM at a time....You do realize that what you are describing is normal after a cold start if the RPM goes down to around 700 RPM and stabilizes? If it dies all the time that is a different story. Edited October 25, 2011 by Ronnie (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RedRocket Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 You do realize that what you are discribing is normal after a cold start if the RPM goes down to around 700 RPM and stabilizes?Sorry, I'm only sixteen and I should've known that. But the problem was that it didn't stabilize. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 Sorry, I'm only sixteen and I should've known that. But the problem was that it didn't stabilize.No problem at all. There's nothing wrong with being sixteen. I wish I was again. I just didn't know if you were a new owner and not familiar with the normal operation of the engine in the Reatta. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 If the IAC is new, I would suspect this issue has been going on for a while. It still doesn't hurt to take a look inside to see if the passage was cleaned properly. Padgett mentions the stainless steel screws which are non-magnetic, take care with them. Check also for vacuum leaks, particularly the PCV system which is on the passengers rear of the raised portion of the intake manifold. It is buried under wiring harnesses so is easy to overlook. Usually small vacuum leaks will raise the idle speed but larger ones will cause stalling, and you may be able to hear it. Check all of the hoses closely, including the ones at the rear of the vacuum block going toward the firewall. If it takes several minutes for the problem to appear, it possibly is when it goes into closed loop operation and one of the sensors is acting up. Any codes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RedRocket Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 If the IAC is new, I would suspect this issue has been going on for a while. It still doesn't hurt to take a look inside to see if the passage was cleaned properly. Padgett mentions the stainless steel screws which are non-magnetic, take care with them. Check also for vacuum leaks, particularly the PCV system which is on the passengers rear of the raised portion of the intake manifold. It is buried under wiring harnesses so is easy to overlook. Usually small vacuum leaks will raise the idle speed but larger ones will cause stalling, and you may be able to hear it. Check all of the hoses closely, including the ones at the rear of the vacuum block going toward the firewall. If it takes several minutes for the problem to appear, it possibly is when it goes into closed loop operation and one of the sensors is acting up. Any codes?Problem solved by changing out the MAF. Thanks for your help guys!Thought I'd have a problem with the brakes, but after a few minutes everything was okay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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