Steering wheel play

[Guest mikemc]

I have a 51 Ford station wagon and a 39 LaSalle...both have quite a bit of "play" in the steering wheel. How do I go about fixing this? Thanks, Mike

[ply33]

I imagine that it can vary quite a bit by make and year. For the early Plymouths there are several adjustments that are supposed to be done in a specific order. Details are in the "operators manual" for 1933 and earlier and in the factory service manuals for 1934 and later. I'd suggest that you get copies of the factory service manuals for those cars to see what, if any, adjustment is available.

There is also the possibility that the wear is too much to adjust out and rebuilding will be required. Again the factory service manual for each car is probably your best guide.

[Dave@Moon]

Ply33's advice on following factory service manual procedures is important, however if you don't have a factory manual handy often times the aftermarket manuals (in that era Motor's & Chilton primarily) will often have procedures for taking the slack out of a recirculating ball steering box.

One important thing to check first, however, are the attachment bolts for the box to the chassis. I bought a 1970 Plymouth Duster (manual steering) once that I just couldn't seem to adjust the last 3-4" of play out of no matter what I did. It turned out that the bolts holding the box were barely finger tight, and in one case not even that (having backed out 2-3 threads). As soon as I tightened those bolts all was well, and stayed that way.

[Rusty_OToole]

Start by carefully inspecting the whole mechanism for worn or loose parts. Do not overlook the bolts holding the steering box itself or the idler arm or bell crank.

Replace worn parts or tighten up loose bolts.

If you adjust the steering box be sure to follow the manufacturer's manual exactly. If you do it wrong it is possible your steering box will wear out in a few months.

If everything is up to manufacturer's specs, get an alignment. Make sure your shocks are in good condition too.

You should also bear in mind that cars of that age had "loose" steering from new. 4" of play at the steering wheel was normal on a new car.

Watch some old movies of the thirties and forties and see how they saw the wheel back and forth. That is not hammy over acting, that is how they steered back then.

You get used to it surprisingly quickly with a little practice.

[ply33]

You should also bear in mind that cars of that age had "loose" steering from new. 4" of play at the steering wheel was normal on a new car.

Watch some old movies of the thirties and forties and see how they saw the wheel back and forth. That is not hammy over acting, that is how they steered back then.

You get used to it surprisingly quickly with a little practice.

I do agree with your overall procedure for fixing but not the final result that you expect. My 1931 Chilton's Multi-Guide claims that more than two inches of play at the wheel is excessive and should be fixed. My 1933 Plymouth has about one inch of play after replacing the king pins, the tie rod and drag link joints and adjusting the steering box. That is more than my new cars, but is far less than four inches.

[Rusty_OToole]

The 4 inch spec comes from Chrysler in the early 50s. It may apply to the first power steering models with Gemmer steering, you had to turn the wheel slightly to open the hydraulic valves before the wheels started to turn.

I stand by my statement regarding cars of the late 30s, 40s and early 50s. Earlier cars with skinnier tires steered easier, and eventually power steering allowed lower steering gear ratios and smaller wheels. But for a while there, steering was pretty vague.

Edited September 16, 2011 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)

[Roger Zimmermann]

I stand by my statement regarding cars of the late 30s, 40s and early 50s. Earlier cars with skinnier tires steered easier, and eventually power steering allowed lower steering gear ratios and smaller wheels. But for a while there, steering was pretty vague.

The bias-type tires don't help either: I have a '56 Cad with bias tires; I have to turn the steering wheel like in the old movies. My other '56 Cad has radial tires: the behavior is totally different.

[dan at larescorp]

The best way to check your steering gear in older vehicles is to first make sure

your gear is centered. When at center have a friend turn the steering wheel

while you watch the input, and output shaft. Both shafts should turn at the

same time. This is only at center though. If gear box is not on center it

will have some play. If they both turn at the same time you should look into

other steering compenents such as pitman arm or tie rod ends.

[Coley]

The best way to check your steering gear in older vehicles is to first make sure

your gear is centered. When at center have a friend turn the steering wheel

while you watch the input, and output shaft. Both shafts should turn at the

same time. This is only at center though. If gear box is not on center it

will have some play. If they both turn at the same time you should look into

other steering compenents such as pitman arm or tie rod ends.

I would add that you should check to see if the steering wheel is on the "center" mark on the steering shaft.

Old alignment shops used to pull the steering wheel and put it on "straight", but it didn't help the play any because the steering box was off the high point.

[Guest Bill_N]

My 1929 Ford Model "A" had about 3 1/2" play at the steering wheel rim. After I rebuilt the steering box (old 7 tooth type) and replaced practically everything that moves and everything that something moves against in there - I now have 1" at the rim. 1" is what the Ford service bulletins call out.

Bill