starting head work

[Guest Recian]

Finally started tearing into the engine of the 89 now. My wife has to drive the hyundai now that someone t-boned her mazda she's been driving we were about to sell so this means the reatta has to run so i've got a car. I got started tearing into the heads today to fix my coolant loss problem. Only got bank1 head off today. The head gasket was toast. 1 and 3 were way out-of-round. They barely fit the block, they were way wider and #1 was blown out. the metal literally separated. Im curious to see bank2 now. Shouldnt take me long to get it apart tomorrow

[Guest Recian]

Got bank2 head off today. Pray you never have to take it off in the car because it was a fight from hell. lost one socket in the exhaust pipe and the other fell under itsomewhere... gota get a flex magnet and try to get that socket out. The bank2 head gasket was blown out on all 3. the metal rings that surround the combustion chamber were shot. Didnt see any trails where water was entering but im sure that would cause it in all 3 cylinders.. 4 of the 6 had blown metal rings. Gona be getting a new water pump while im in there and Since ive got the water pump off im gona do the timing chain and tensioner and fix my 041 code by replacing the pickup while im in there along with new cam and crank sensors and icm + coils. Total for everything im replacing including some rear struts was bout $533 shipped from rockauto.com. Ive added some pics of the damages. Im totally impressed with how clean the pistons and valves are in this engine. Wierd thing is neither head had an exhaust manifold gasket and to the best of my knowledge they havent been off in the last few owners and the heads have never been off

Look closely at the metal combustion chamber rings

Edited July 3, 2011 by Recian (see edit history)

[Guest Road mister]

That block looks petty good, I went through the Riv's series II a while back, things are tight, but do able. I often wonder what the difference's is in these 3.8 s? I was floored by how much you have to crank the head bolts down, 130 lbs if I recall. The old 350 V-8's are 65 lbs.

Anybody that wants to do a series II swap should be aware, the early plastic intake plenumns melt, ( 1995) and better plastic replacements are now availible. Check out where the melt was actually blowing water into the air intake. If you roll the dice like I did and say, not me, you may be doing this same tear down.

Edited July 4, 2011 by Road mister (see edit history)

[Guest Recian]

i think the big diff is you took the rear manifold out. I didnt lol the studs are so rusty i didnt wana damage anything. Looks like the heads are the same for the series2 just different shape springs. The head bolts are torqued to 65 then 130 degrees. that's what my 89 fsm says. i was impressed too at how tight they have to be

[Guest Road mister]

Now you have me scratching my head to recall?? What ever the tourque was, I went by a Chiltons book, and the car has been running great for over 16 K miles. This is whats great about this forum you can double check with others, In the mean while I am going to recheck my source as to what I did, but I am almost certain it was a lot more than 65 lbs.

[wws944]

Recian,

While you have the heads off, you may want to clean up the exhaust manifolds: http://forums.aaca.org/f116/exhaust-manifold-flow-288402.html

[Guest Road mister]

Browsed around for those specs, What I have found is, 37 lbs plus 130 degrees.

It is recomended you use new bolts and follow the sequence to get these equally tight. I came across a sequence diagram but I was unable to copy & paste it.

Again, check twice and assemble once.

[Guest Recian]

im curious, when I do the timing chain among all this will I need anything special to get the harmonic balancer off? I noticed there's no threads or holes for a puller

[Guest Mc_Reatta]

No puller needed xceptin' a 91. Crackin' the nut loose is the fun part. See Ronnie's site for some info.

[padgett]

I just use the starter. If that doesn't work (rare) then a 1/2" air gun.

Be careful not to lose the woodruff key.

[Vincent Vega]

Recian,

While you have the heads off, you may want to clean up the exhaust manifolds: http://forums.aaca.org/f116/exhaust-manifold-flow-288402.html

my pic shows pre and post. 1 1/8" hole saw. Easy to do.

[Guest Richard D]

Recian, I wanted to thank you for showing me that a 3800 problem is not the end of the world. Not having a lift or even a garage I would always panic when I thought I heard a noise. You and Padgett have shown that any shop w that is familiar with the 3800 can do the work (even pulling heads) without having to pull engine, A/C system, sandclogger valve etc. I am homing up on 145,000 miles and I put cardboard under it and it is still dry which is what my mechanic said when he replaced my CPS and harmonic balancer awhile back. Stick with it, it is a great feeling when a hopped up vetec Honda pulls up next to you at a light and asks if Buick will be producing them in the future. I just say no, it is a handmade limited edition from the 1980s and 90s, then watch their jaws drop.

[Guest Recian]

You're welcome. This site has been very helpful in this process and ive done all the work in this car in my back yard. It's already a good enough feeling when im complimented on reviving it, and im looking forward to driving it with this new cleaned up engine already. Im gona turn this reatta into an all motor car that when that honda tries to take me off the light i leave him behind as he grinds gears trying to keep up. I know it can do it but i wana be able to take it to shows and drive it to california and back that reliable. This car means alot to me. Its very sentimental and has alot of history with me and my bro and it's been a learning experience. Mine is at 170k and i plan to have it until someone hits me and bends the frame or i die

Edited July 5, 2011 by Recian (see edit history)

[NCReatta]

Mine is at 170k and i plan to have it until someone hits me and bends the frame or i die

Now that's commitment.. :eek:

[Guest Recian]

not as committed as buying 10 reattas.. or sould you BE committed for that

[NCReatta]

not as committed as buying 10 reattas.. or sould you BE committed for that

Hey hey... nothin's done yet..

[Guest Richard D]

Recian, Here is the 1990 I bought new. In 95 I was hit by an impaired driver at the drivers side front wheel, which sent me into a concrete pole at 50 MPH, it may have bent the frame but I was able to open and close my door. Bruised heart, broken sternum. Good car structure. Oh yeah, the engine pushed the floor up against the back of the brake pedal.

[Guest Recian]

ouch. looks like a parts car now heh

[Guest Recian]

parts are starting to roll in pretty quick for the car now. I see why the pickup on the cam gear forthe CMP sensor falls out.. it's so loose in the gear. I'll hit it with some silicone to hold it in there better. Gota get the pulley off so I can do the timing but i gota have the right size socket to get it. Its bigger than a 27mm and smaller than a 32mm. Im thinking 30mm but it's a GM so it should be standard. anyone know the exact size so I can go to the auto store and pick one up

[Guest Mc_Reatta]

pulley bolt is 1 1/8 (29 mm) for an 80's 15/16 (24mm) for a 90's

[padgett]

Is the tensioner pulley bolt reverse threaded ?

[Guest Recian]

tensioner bolt is rev thread padgett. I got a 29 socket and got it off with ease with an electric impact gun and a prybar against the balance shaft to prevent turning (remember i have no heads on it) I found the root of my code 41. Also i think it was a late 88 engine. The tensioner was very worn out and the new tensioner is twice as long as the one i took out (seen to the right of the sprocket) i also found the manet for the pickup stuck to the engine block inside the cover lol

[padgett]

Can see the shattered magnet holder - my experience is that the whole thing does not fall out, I usually find part of the housing still in the sprocket. Suspect the end breaks off, the magnet moves out about .030" and catches on the edge of the sensor which rips it the rest of the way out.

[Guest Recian]

now that fixes my code 41. Should be right when i get it back together. About 1/3 the parts have showed up in the last 2 days so by wed i should have a stockpile of parts ready to start re-assembly. I know you've said that the cam sensor magnet has no drivability effects but it doesnt effect spark retard or anything that could make it run better when it's fixed?

[padgett]

Didn't say it had no effects. Engine will run but will be in simultaneous FI not sequential.

[Guest Recian]

in other words it'll be more fuel efficient. That's why on top of blown head gaskets, it was getting s**ty gas mileage before i tore it down for the rebuild even after i replaced the 02 sensor. My conscern is the pickup in my new cam sprocket. It fits in there but it's kinda loose. it's an ACDelco part too. I put some silicone in with it but im afraid it may fall out. Maybe i'll go get some jbweld tomorrow and pull it back apart and put some of that in there

Edited July 9, 2011 by Recian (see edit history)

[Ronnie]

About 1/3 the parts have showed up in the last 2 days so by wed i should have a stockpile of parts ready to start re-assembly.

I've not read this thread closely so I don't know what your plans are but if I were you I would install new rings and bearings since you are in so deep already. Oil pan comes right off. Don't even need to remove the starter if you have the small one.

[Guest Recian]

dont say that. last time i told somebody that on their engine overhaul they didnt listen now their engine burns oil like a SOB and it's always black after they did an overhaul exept rings lol id hate for that to happen but at least I know how to get it apart quickly next time if I should need to do that. I dont have the money for that much extra atm and the car needs to be mobile by next weekend.