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My first new Old Buick


v12lincoln

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Hello, Today I bring home my first ever Buick, A 1932 model 66s rumble seat coupe. Cant wait to get it home this afternoon to start tinkering.

I am sure to be on here a lot more now as this is my first older GM product ever and happy that I waited for a good one.

Can anyone tell me about these cars and any quirks they might have?

This one needs a little work but the engine and drive train are all new or rebuilt, new WW tire that need cleaned up as it has sat for awhile and a few missing parts replaced but it comes with 2 large boxes of spare parts most of which have been chromed or nice originals.

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Looks to me like you are ready to roll, with that car. Fell free to ask questions. You may not be aware, but if you are in the Northeast, the BCA National Meet is July 5-9 in Danvers, MA. I know you will see at least 4 1932 Buicks there, if not more.

Quirks are probably led by the carburation equiped with a heat exchanger. Most owners have them blanked off.

The 60 series and all large series have the water tube along the top of the engine, which are prone to leaks.

It looks like a good paint job after a restoration, but if you are a purist, the original color scheme was always darker fenders then the body. Do you have the hubcaps? If not, they may be hard to find.

John

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Just got the car home and going through all the extras that came with it. I am in need of 3 hubcaps so I guess it is time to start looking. Will have to join the BCA when I get it running good.

Why wait for that day? The BCA magazine is full of Buick parts specialists.

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Measure the opening for your hub cap. There are 3 different sizes for 1932 wire wheels. 50 series, 60 series, and 80-90 series. Many people only list the hubcaps as 1932. 1931 hub caps look very similar except they are aluminum. Most likely you will have to have any hubcaps you find restored. I can walk you through the process when you are ready to do this.

I may have one dinged up 60 series hubcap. If you are interested in it, send me a private message and we'll talk.

I am reasonably familiar with 1932 Buicks. I am in the process of restoring a model 58. I am attempting to do most of the work myself.

They are great cars!

Let me know if I can help

Bob

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I got the can running today, Carb needs a rebuild as gas just pours out the front while running. Still sounds good and holds 30 psi oil pressure at idle.

Now to start getting all the little things fixed and polished so I can drive and enjoy my new toy.

Anyone have tune up information on the 32 66s?? My books only go back to 35 and dont show the 32s dual point distributor.

Do the ford hubcaps from their wire wheel fit on the 60 series??? Just to have something until I find some Buick hubcaps.

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You will want a copy of the 1932 Buick Specifications and adjustments manual. There are reproduction ones sold on ebay for about $20.00. I could walk you through the timing, but with the dual points ther are a lot of steps to get it right. The has excellent descriptions of all timing and carburetor adjustments. It is possible that your cork float in the carb has become fuel saturated and will not float to close the inlet needle. You can make a new float from a large cork stopper that you can buy at a hardware store. It is important to seal the cork with crazy glue to prevent fuel saturation. The original method was to use shellac to seal the float, but with the alcohol in modern gas, it will disolve shellac. Crazy glue or model airplane dope are both fuel resistant. The float level is absolutedly critical on these Marvel carbs. Too high a level and the fuel will flow out of the jets. Too low and the jets can't draw enough fuel.

By the way, the dual points are not like dual point distributors of the 50's. On the 32 Buick, one set of points fires odd number cylinders and the other set fires even number cylinders. Both sets of points must be set to their correct timing marks for the engine to run properly.

I can't help you on the hubcap fit from Fords.

Bob

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V12Lincoln,

I receved your PM, but I find it complicated to respond back and forth and prefer e-mail.

For the future, you can reach me at j.scheib@comcast.net

To reach Mac Blair, Phone 724.463.3372

His address is 1932 Buick Registry

3000 Warren Road

Indiana, PA

His emailis buick32@comcast.net

He has a sizable parts list he can mail, a number of repro parts, NOS and some used parts. Plus, a waelth of knowledge.

He also maitains a Registry of all '32 Buicks in existance and does attend Hershey every fall. Right now, we have the BCA Natonal Meet in Danvers, MA coming next week, so you may not get a response for a week or so.

John

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The distributor advance cable and wizzard contol linkage will have similar layouts for all 32 Buicks. The length of rods and cables may be different. It's difficult to show good pictures because everything under the hood on Buick is black except the brass and copper lines. Let me know if these pics help.

Bob

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Yes, v12lincoln,

The engine should be black to be correct to as new. But then, as I said earlier, the exterior color also is not to Buick original. Grenn engines are on earlier years, I am not sure which year was last. On the forum, you can also go to the judging manual on this forum to check the "to original" colors and other judging info, should you want to make it as original.

John

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John is correct, The firewall was painted black, the inside of the hood was painted black. The engine was a semi-gloss black with AC delco parts painted their black, and the rocker arm and side corvers were painted gloss black. Hirsch paints for years listed the green as a 1932 paint. This caused confusion on the correct colors for many people.

Bob

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Thanks Bob for the pictures of the hood keepers. I have all the parts, they were in with a pile of new chrome parts and didnt know what they were for.

Now would you have pictures, of how the sun visors are put together..: ) I have all the parts for two it looks like but havent a clue on nj ow they go together.

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If the mounting hole near are loose, I like to drill them out to 3/8 diameter and then glue in a wood dowel. Drill a pilot hole for the screw and you will have a solid mount. I do this for garnish molding screws with a 5/16 dowel.

Bob

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v12lincoln

I am not sure where you are located, but if in the northeast, you might considering getting to Danvers, Ma for the meet this week. We would love to meet you. No cost to look and talk. We have quite a community of '32 folks around the country, many in the east.

John

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V12,

My father-in-law lives in Ione (near that other prison). I still travel to California for business & family visits. So maybe I can stop by sometime to offer some help. Send me a PM with your direct email address and your new BCA membership number so I can add you to the PWD newsletter list.

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