Painting engine

[Landman]

Does the engine (in this case 1934 Chevrolet) require high heat primer? If so, which components?

[Restorer32]

I have never found anyone, including our PPG rep who can explain to me what the difference is between regular and high temp paint or primer. I have been asking this question for years. Anyone know?

[Rusty_OToole]

I don't think an engine gets hot enough to require a special paint or primer. Especially a 1934 model.

Regular paint will burn off the exhaust manifold but they make special paint for that.

If the cooling system is working the engine should not go above 200 degrees. A car's bodywork can get that hot in summer in Texas.

Edited May 19, 2011 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)

[nickelroadster]

A local bodyshop supply rep told me that the difference is that they put a different label on the can. I doubt that primer is really necessary in painting an engine as most of the surfaces are pretty rough. A quick metal prep and the paint seems to stick pretty well. If your engine color is available it is probably easier to use engine paint. If it isn't, just use regular paint.

[Guest De Soto Frank]

FWIW, Chevy certainly didn't prime any of its engines or parts back then; they just shot the assembled engine with "thistle gray" paint.

Smooth "Tin" parts, like the valve cover, oil pan and engine side-cover ( valve side ) might hold their paint better if first treated with metal prep or etching primer, but the rough cast-iron surfaces usually held their paint pretty well.

As Rusty said, the only part of this engine that gets hot enough to affect paint would be the exhaust manifold.

More important would be to make sure all engine surfaces to recieve paint are thoroughly de-greased.

[GrayCav56]

I never had any issues with paint on my Chevy Orange blocks, but I tell ya, this 66 GTO just loves to burn off the paint on the center intake runners and the center exhaust port.

I have to constantly touch them up, and even bring a rattle can with me to shows!

[Guest De Soto Frank]

I never had any issues with paint on my Chevy Orange blocks, but I tell ya, this 66 GTO just loves to burn off the paint on the center intake runners and the center exhaust port.

I have to constantly touch them up, and even bring a rattle can with me to shows!

Does your GTO have the exhaust heat-riser up through the intake ?

If so, that discoloration may be a fact of life.

When I rebuilt the 383 wedge-motor for my '60 Chrysler, the new Fel-Pro intake gasket was blocked-off over the heat riser ports...

[Guest]

I never had any issues with paint on my Chevy Orange blocks, but I tell ya, this 66 GTO just loves to burn off the paint on the center intake runners and the center exhaust port.

I have to constantly touch them up, and even bring a rattle can with me to shows!

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Can't help you on the center exhaust ports, concentrated heat from two ports with a common center divider on "D" port heads get really hot, and even after a while the end ports will start to burn.

The intake heat riser is another story. You can buy intake manifold gaskets with the riser blocked off ( like all the factory high performance and factory race cars did ) or you can slip in your own piece of stainless steel plate the same thickness as the gasket to do the same. If you wanted to use the 67 and above 4bbl manifold ( a copy of the 62-63 Factory NASCAR manifold except in Q jet form ) or you could use the Factory RA 4 aluminum manifold without the iron crossover to eliminate heat under the carb. like the one I use. http://www.pismoderelicts.com/photogallery/new%20format%20937/images/p1020753.jpg

BTW the aluminum tubes on each side of the manifold carry the wiring harness. A week after I bought the car ( I'm original owner) I had a fire because the harness sagged onto that heat riser on the manifold. This is very common on Pontiac's.

Edited May 20, 2011 by helfen (see edit history)