Guest hwess Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 Tried to start the 36 Dodge after 18 monts idle and fuel pump is bad. From ethenol in gas? Should I replace, rebuild, or go electric? If electric, how dependable? Wire to ignition switch or seperate switch? Fuse? Carb stand the pressure? Who rebuilds with modern material? Or can I get a kit? Thanks for advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest hwess Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 How come I am a Junior member when I am probably the oldest guy on here?:confused: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 Because you don't talk much!! H., I make it a practise to drive every car and tractor I own at least once a week. It keeps the oil circulated and fuel fresh. I suggest you should do the same. On another note, I understand there are fuel pump diaphragms being made that will hold up with this garbage they call gasoline. I think that's what I would do. Maybe the carb guy from Macungie has them. Earl G.'s done business with him. I may have one of his flyers here, I'll look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 Only the big mouths get the senior status Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DodgeKCL Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 The original (or NOS) fuel pump diaphragm ruptured on my '33 last Summer and let several litres of gasoline into my sump. They tell me it was caused not by age but by the 10% alcohol we now have in our gasoline and the natural rubber diaphragms can't take it. The A.C. DELCO camshaft driven side mount pumps were used right into the 50s and 60s and changing to a new neoprene diaphragm fixes the problem. At least that's what the guys tell me. I'll let you all know if the new neoprene one gives out. I suspect it won't as this is the 'fix' everyone is going to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Knucklebuster Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 Then and Now Automotive "claims" to have the answer for the new gas in old pumps problem. The website looks good anyway. I havent even got close to doin my pump yet so I dont know. Just another thing to look at.Saw a 1934 KC on auction last night. Went for 36,000. All the announcer could talk about was how few Dodge trucks have survived stock. He had never seen one that wasnt hotrodded. Even more fuel for me to keep the K32 like the factory sent it out. And I finally have a pic of what the crank hole cover looks like! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 Just rebuild the pump or buy a rebuilt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Backyardmechanic Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 hwess,I had a electric inthe 37 just in case.hook it up with a togen switch BUT when i was haveing problems at gettysburg i found out there was blockage at electric pump.After bypassing the electric pump hav en't had anyother problems "So far"with the fuel systemBUT I have had two flat tires (split seam in tubes) I'm running Coker radials and tubes to match. We have use then and now kits with out any problems so far.Vern Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DodgeKCL Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 Although the pump diaphragm stayed the same,holes all line up, the structure of the pump changed over the years. The very early ones had 2 shiny brass air domes on the top and a gear shaped wheel on the bail holding the sediment bowl in place. The brass removable air domes disappeared over the years. Also the 'angle' of inlet and outlet lines on some of the later pumps are specifically made for a certain engine and won't line up with all vehicles particularly our old ones. You will have to reroute the fuel line and the carb line in different directions to fit a 'new' pump. And,no, it doesn't matter if you take out the 8 screws and reorient the top of the pump to the bottom. You still won't find the position for your engine. If you want to stay original you have to just replace the diaphragm as rebuilds or outright replacements today are of much later design. As a judge I'd knock off a point or 2 for incorrect engine condition. (I'm a bit of a stickler when it comes to correct restorations. Although copper tubing is illegal in a new vehicle, I insist that it still be used in the gas line from the gas tank if you have to replace it. It is allowed and will pass D.O.T./M.O.T. inspection for use today as our vehicles can be restored correctly in 'day one' condition as antiques.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwollam Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 Vern, you must have hooked the electric fuel pump to you inner tubes, thus causing the blockage in your pump and the rotting in your inner tubes!Sorry, couldn't resist. Just joking! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil 32DL6 Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 Here's a little coverage on the electric pump option. I took this route to solve a recurring vapor lock problem. When I first got the car the previous owner told me that when he had bought it, there was a Bendix electric pump installed where a mechanical pump belonged. He removed it and put a rebuilt mechanical pump back in its proper place. Fortunately he didn't throw the Bendix away.I tried solving the vapor lock with some Rube Goldberg-type fixes first, but didn't like the messy look nor the stress from worrying about stalling out in busy traffic. So, out of mothballs came the Bendix.First I simply by-passed the mechanical pump, leaving it in place for authentic appearance (I closed it off with a hose running directly from the outlet back to the inlet).Setting up the pump was pretty easy and straightforward since my other 32 DL6 (which is isn't running right now) has a Bendix pump. I "borrowed" the homemade mounting bracket for its pump, drilled four bolt holes in the floor of the new DL under the back seat to hide the pump just in front of the fuel tank, and then assembled everything including hoses and fittings.I ran the wires from the pump through the floorboard, grounded one to a metal frame under the seat then ran the other wire over to the side, under the metal door trim strips and carpet to the front, then up behind the kick panel and under the dash. I clamped a simple toggle switch under the dash (so I wouldn't have to drill any holes) then tapped into the hot connection at the fuse box.It works like a charm! I switch on the pump to let the fuel bowl fill, pull out the choke, give the gas pedal 4 or 5 squirts, stomp on the starter pedal...and she almost always starts right up. On the rare occasion when it floods, I just switch off the pump and crank the engine until it clears. As a side benefit I get peace of mind that the little toggle switch acts like a theft-proof lock.For these older cars you need to make sure you use a low pressure electric pump: in the 2 to 4 psi range. Some universal types come with a high/low setting, but the Bendix just puts out a perfect 3 or 4 psi. There is a source consistently selling low pressure electric pumps on eBay. I bought one as a spare. It's made by Airtex and cost about $40.By the way, the Bendix has a built-in bronze gas filter which can be removed and back-flushed from time to time, but you can also install a modern paper filter anywhere in-line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 As far as I have seen there is no electric pump/regulator that will turn down low enough if there is orig. carb on DA model. ( regardless of how they advertise themselves ) When I first bought my car it had an electric pump and constantly flood, I tried every other type pum/reg. that I could find, always too much fuel. Imagine the look on my face when I opened the trunk weeks later after owning the car ( how that worked out I have no idea ) and found the original fuel canister. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Zetnick Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 I had a fuel pump on my car when I bought it and it worked well with the original Stromberg carb. It went out after 10 years and I just took the old one to the auto parts store and got another...of course that was in 1981. Anyway, I did find a vacuum tank at a swap meet and would like to use it. I do like this dual setup in case there are problems with either system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil 32DL6 Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 As far as I have seen there is no electric pump/regulator that will turn down low enough if there is orig. carb on DA model.Glad you chimed in on that, Jason, since I don't have any experience with systems with vacuum tanks. But, I think an electric pump would be quite suitable in the '36 Dodge that started this thread.And, I forgot to mention that, besides retaining the authentic look by keeping the original mechanical pump in place, I figure that, if the electric pump ever failed along the road, I could reattach the fuel hoses and have the mechanical pump as a backup to get home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Backyardmechanic Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 Dave When I installed the electric fuel pump just before makeing the trip to MI meet for a back up unit I just ran the lines to the mechanical pump.With the togon switch off, the mechanical pump pull fuel thu the electric pump with no problem.On tour at Gettysburg the 3rd day going back to motel we had problem with the fuel, switch on the electric pump didn't do any good.Tom Myers came along with there 28 standard 6 with a tow strap pull us back to the motel parking lot.Another mumber had a 5 gal gas can I went next door to a gas sation fill the can with gas went back But the we could only put 2 gal of gas in the tank (full).after running the electric pump with line disconected at the mechanical pump no fuel at the mach.pump end.Disconeted the line at the electric pump blow thu line to the mach.pump line is open,by pass the elect.pump, connected the line to the mach. pump start the engine been running well ever since.Will have to take a look the system before June for the run to Moline meet.May sent out a pump to Tom Hanerford (Then and Now) for rebuilt for a spair. Vern Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil 32DL6 Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 When I installed the electric fuel pump just before makeing the trip to MI meet for a back up unit I just ran the lines to the mechanical pump.With the togon switch off, the mechanical pump pull fuel thu the electric pump with no problem.I considered doing that, Vern, but decided that there was some risk that, if the mechanical pump failed, the electric pump might start filling the oil sump with gasoline! By-passing the mechanical pump seemed the more prudent way to go...especially for a non-show car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest hwess Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 Thanks for all the advice. I will order a new pump from Bernbaum and carry an electric for backup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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