Is there a windshield model cross-reference?

[Guest Twilight Fenrir]

Well, I'm working on my '66 Olds Toronado, and the metal under the bottom of the windshield is rusted, and I need to replace it. I've tried digging up another '66 Toronado with a good one around here, with no luck. I've also made a number of posts inquiring as to metal fabricators, again without much help.

So, instead, I'd like to find what other cars might have a compatible piece of metal. And, to me, the most obvious way to do so would be to find cars that share the same piece of glass. Only, to the best of my ability to use the internet, I cannot find any sort of model information on this subject.

Is there any sort of cross reference for finding the model of a windshield, and finding all the cars that also shared it?

Thanks.

[Dave@Moon]

A Hollander Interchange manual will tell you that. Unfortunately I only have a Hollander book for imports. I'm sure someone here has manual that'll cross-reference it for you. Most likely I think you'll be limited to Eldorado and (maybe) Riviera windshields, if any.

[PONTIAC1953]

i think dave is right, charles coker, 1953 pontiac tech advisor.

[Guest Twilight Fenrir]

A Hollander Interchange manual will tell you that. Unfortunately I only have a Hollander book for imports. I'm sure someone here has manual that'll cross-reference it for you. Most likely I think you'll be limited to Eldorado and (maybe) Riviera windshields, if any.

Yeah, I think the Eldorado will share it, I was wondering about the Riviera as well... But, what span of years? I know where there's a great big pile of early 70's Toronado's, just a half mile from here, but no idea if I can use parts from them. Or if any of them have the parts I need.

The windshield in question is still readily (and cheaply) available from local shops, (I did a little checking before I bought the car) So it must be at least somewhat common.

[rocketraider]

66-70 Toronado and Riviera. I think there's some difference in the Eldorado windshield.

[Guest Twilight Fenrir]

66-70 Toronado and Riviera. I think there's some difference in the Eldorado windshield.

Well dang, I was hoping for a few more options... But, I think there's a yard 'round here with some 68/69's... I'll check there, thanks

[Rusty_OToole]

GM windshields (and back windows) all rust out the same way. Your chance of finding one that is not rusted out is small.

I've fixed lots of them. The cheap way is with fibreglass, but to do a good job you have to cut out the bad metal, make a patch panel and weld it in. This is routine for a good bodyman. There may even be an aftermarket patch panel for this, they could sure sell a lot of them.

[Guest Twilight Fenrir]

GM windshields (and back windows) all rust out the same way. Your chance of finding one that is not rusted out is small.

I've fixed lots of them. The cheap way is with fibreglass, but to do a good job you have to cut out the bad metal, make a patch panel and weld it in. This is routine for a good bodyman. There may even be an aftermarket patch panel for this, they could sure sell a lot of them.

Naw, there's no pre-made parts unfortunately. Toronado is just too obscure.

I was wondering about fiberglassing it, I eas very tempted to just cut out the worst, POR-15 the rest, and go for it and see how it worked. Everytime I asked though, I never really got a good answer about it.

I plan on stripping the car to the frame and doing a full rebuild once ive got more money, and better facilities, so i'd still do it right at that point... But i'd like to drive it a few summers before that point, and really this is the only thing keeping me from doing so.

[Rusty_OToole]

Fibreglass works if the metal is not rotted away too far. There must be enough left to support the windshield and trim. If the rusty metal was treated with POR15 inside and out it should make a permanent repair.

But if you want a real 100 point restoration, hammer out some new metal and weld it in.

[Guest Twilight Fenrir]

Fibreglass works if the metal is not rotted away too far. There must be enough left to support the windshield and trim. If the rusty metal was treated with POR15 inside and out it should make a permanent repair.

But if you want a real 100 point restoration, hammer out some new metal and weld it in.

Well, if I can't find the part come spring, I'll just go with fiberglass for now, and deal with it when I tear it all down again.

The metal shouldn't be much of a problem, the firewall comes up right underneath the part that's missing. So that should bear all the weight no problem. I'll make a sandwich out of it, put one layer underneath the edge of the missing parts, and at least one layer on top of it, depending on the exact tollerances I've got. And, if I cut off the fringe, I should be able to sneak a sponge-brush under and around all the pieces of metal for POR-15.

Thanks alot for answering a long held question. Now the only thing I've got to worry about it, is figuring out if I need to form in a ledge for the windshield to rest on when it's being installed. And, if so, how high up... I'll probably just make a little removable bracket that will allow it to be adjusted untill it's set.

[Guest knuckle head]

Hemming Classic Car #75 Dec 2010 has an article on rebuilding" A" post and lower windshield frame with sheet metal. They clean everything good an weld in short pieces to prevent warping. That should give you some motivation.

If you don't have a mig welder, even if you prepped everything first, a body shop sold be able to do it for a reasonable charge.

Henry

[Guest Twilight Fenrir]

I actually bought a mig welder a couple years ago, but untill this year, I haven't had the electrical supply to plug it in. I've got an old '61 Cj5 I'm going to have ALOT of welding to do that doesn't matter how it looks, so I'll be getting plenty of practice with it over the summer. And would be able to weld that up properly.

The problem with just throwing metal at it, is it's a compound curve. If I put in like 20-30 1-2" pieces, it would probably work. But, honestly, I do not have the patience for that.

[joe_padavano]

Fibreglass works if the metal is not rotted away too far. There must be enough left to support the windshield and trim. If the rusty metal was treated with POR15 inside and out it should make a permanent repair.

But if you want a real 100 point restoration, hammer out some new metal and weld it in.

Did you look at the photos? :eek:

In any case, I would strongly recommend against fiberglass or other non-metallic repair. This is a critical area where the windshield seals against the pinchweld. Fiberglass or other similar patch materials expand at a different rate than metal. When (not if) the different expansion rates cause a crack, you'll have a water leak and a return of rust.

[Guest Twilight Fenrir]

Did you look at the photos? :eek:

I didn't post the photo's here Because I wasn't really asking about it... but, now that the topic has come up....

You can see the firewall right beneath the gap in the metal, so that should be able to support the weight and pressure.

As for it eventually cracking... I have this in mind for a temporary fix. If it lasts 2-4 years, I'll be perfectly happy. Heck, even if it lasts one year I'll be happy.

The A-pillars had a tiny bit of rust, but I cleaned them up and POR-15'd them. And the rear window was in good shape as well, just some light surface rust, which I'm still working on getting prepped for POR-15.

Edited February 11, 2011 by Twilight Fenrir (see edit history)

[Guest Jim_Edwards]

This is just a personal opinion on attempting to do a "quick, temporary fix" on the windshield mounting issue by using fiber glass. I think you will regret the attempt from the git-go for three reasons.

1. It's very unlikely you'll get the proper seal because you'll not likely get the surface the exact curvature of the windshield.

2. It will be very difficult to get rid of resin where you don't necessarily want it if you attempt to deal with the issue properly in the future.

3. Great likelihood that the lack of fit will promote additional rust in supporting components, making a future repair much more difficult.

I know these things to be true from a similar "jackass" repair I did years ago on a car that I had to do over later, and it was in a much less critical area than the windshield, but I managed to create a much bigger future problem than the one I though I had solved.

Jim