Need some battery info

[Guest MidTNDawg]

Well, the weather is playing havoc with me. Lost a whole post due to a failed connection. Trying again. Battery in DA was dead when I tried to get it off the truck but managed to roll it off of the truck so ok there. Been almost a week since car was started should it have gone down that quickly? Too, when I was attempting to connect my charger I drew a pretty good arc even though everything was off as far as I know. The charger was in the off position. It is still + to + and - to - isn't it? Positive ground has no effect on that does it?

[Guest DodgeKCL]

If a battery is really 'dead' ,and you try to hook it up backwards ,you will get a big spark and the charger will try to charge the battery backwards eventually blowing something. BUT the battery has to be really DEAD. Been there,done that.

However I assume you have markings of + and -? No, positive ground has nothing to do with charging. If you don't have a meter and want to check for an internal short in the car (you suspect this is what is killing the battery?) then take a small low brightness bulb, a radio dial bulb is good, and put it in series with your charger between the battery cables. The battery will be removed from the car or completely disconnected. Just hook between the loose battery cables. You MUST hook the positive charger cable to ground and the negative side of the charger to the 'high' or negative cable,bulb in series, just like you were hooking up a battery. This is so as to not upset any polarity sensitive equipment that might get accidently turned on during testing.

The bulb should not light. If it does then there is a path for current somewhere in the car otherwise known as a 'short'. This would also assume you've already checked that all switches are in the 'off' position.

If the bulb lights and all the switches are 'off' DO NOT keep a charged battery in the car as you looking at a possible electrical fire. And if the car is in an attached garage it could take you and your house. If you have a wiring short do not treat it lightly. (Pun not intended.)

This is why I have battery switches on my antiques because I don't trust their original wiring.

Edited February 7, 2011 by DodgeKCL (see edit history)

[Guest MidTNDawg]

Thanks. The battery was not totally dead as it turned the engine just a bit before failing. No where near enough to start, but it turned over. A question I failed to ask is, is it permissable to use a 12 V booster battery i n very short "bursts" to jump start the engine without doing any damage? As to testing for a short, I will do that Having just gotten the car I am not sure all the switches are off but I think they are. Re: the light swithch, where is the off position? Thanks, Doug

[dwollam]

What is the date on the battery? Could be just an old battery that is failing.

[Guest MidTNDawg]

You know, I think the simplest answers are best. I had not even thought about that. I will get it checked, but will probably have to be tomorrow now. Another simple question if I may. How do I remove the battery? The access panel sure doesn;t look big enough. I acknowledged before and do again, I sure have a lot to learn. Dave, as always, thanks. Doug

[Guest 1930]

You have to remove the wooden floorboard in order to change the battery, if you care enough to think about it I would be very carefull on what hardware went where, there are some nuts out there that actually care about trying to get every nut bolt and washer correct when they restore a car or so I have heard.

Chances are someone before you has already gone to the effort to be irresponsible enough to just throw it all back together with a handfull of hardware from Wal-Mart but you never know.

[Guest MidTNDawg]

Jason, thanks. It will go back together as it is now, but how will I know if it is as original? As I posted in another thread I have found a couple of modifications, i.e., a Bosch wiper motor. Doug

[nearchoclatetown]

When you want to spend a few more bucks, Doug, contact Chris at the AACA library. Go to the library tag at the top of this page, look at the online catelog for 1929 Dodge. The book you need is Dodge Brothers Six Instruction Book. Chris can copy it and send it to you. If you add $35 it will cover AACA membership too. That book will answer many of your questions, it is the owner's manual.

[Guest 1930]

The floorboard section that you will have to remove in order to get the battery out is held down with round headed or dome headed screws with machine threads, flat washer will also be there, cant remember if there is a lock. Its been a while. The flat washer will be nearly the same size as the cutout or impression in the floorboard.

Done worry about dropping any nuts ( if you only remove the battery board ) The toe boards will not have to be removed but just in case there are nuts and washers and lockwashers there for sure. The battery board hardware is screwed down directly into small metal flanges that come off of the frame rails that is why there are no nuts and such on underside.

Does your car have the small battery access hole cover? Should have a little detent spring on it? You would have had to remove this in order to charge or do anything to battery. If it is there be carefull with it, they are difficlut if not impossible to find.

When I started all this out myself I did not have anyone tell me these things so I diregarded or took for granted alot of these things.

If you want to get the correct owners manual than depending on serial # of your car there are three versions. All three are identical as far as I have noticed except that the cover will state first thru third edition.

[Guest MidTNDawg]

Doug and Jason, thanks. The access cover is there with a "finger hole" to remove it. I saw no sign of a spring. Is it on a side? Re: the manual. Three versions? Two model years? OK. Also FWIW I have applied for membership on-line but when I got to PayPal it stopped me although I already had a message my application had been submitted. I sent an email asking if I may mail a check but I have not received an answer. Doug

[nearchoclatetown]

The flat spring is nailed on the side, it's to keep tension so trap door stays in place. Yup, three differant owner's manuals. But Chris has the one you need, by your serial number because I gave it to him. Which club did you try to paypal, AACA or DBC? You should join both.

[Guest MidTNDawg]

Doug, thanks. The DBC. Ok, I will take care of the AACA also. I do look at their General Forum some anyway so I should join. Doug

[idrjoe_sandiego]

You can view the DA Instruction manual free at this site- Be patient as it downloads very slowly:

1929 Dodge DA Instruction Book

[kevin b]

HI Doug

One thing I will say is to put a kill switch for the battery. You can save yourself alot of head aches or heart ache if it started on fire. I have mine in the floor in front of the seat. It is also a good anti theft device too. Good Luck Kevin

[idrjoe_sandiego]

A question I failed to ask is, is it permissable to use a 12 V booster battery i n very short "bursts" to jump start the engine without doing any damage? As to testing for a short, I will do that Having just gotten the car I am not sure all the switches are off but I think they are. Re: the light swithch, where is the off position? Thanks, Doug

Yes, you can jump start the car with a 12 volt jumper battery. Just be absolutely certain all lights and accessories are shut off otherwise you will blow out any 6volt bulbs when the 12 volt jumper is attached. The light switch is in the off position at 6:00 unless someone has messed with it. (5:00 is the for the parking lights/7:00 is for low beam headlights/8:00 is for high beams). Joe

[Guest MidTNDawg]

Joe, thanks. I thought 6:00 was the off position but was not sure. Doug.

[Guest MidTNDawg]

Hi Kevin, I trust all is going well. Thanks for the input. Doug

[Guest 1930]

Paypall hasnt worked on Dodge membership for at least a couple of years that I know of but you can mail the check and if you need the address let me know

[Guest MidTNDawg]

Paypall hasnt worked on Dodge membership for at least a couple of years that I know of but you can mail the check and if you need the address let me know

Jason, thank you once again. I have not had a response so, yes, I need the address. I really hope this lousy weather clears so I can get out with my car. Just way too much snow right now. Doug

[Bob Zetnick]

Hope I'm not muddying the water here, but I know on my car when the connections got dirty, especially where the ground strap was attached to the frame, the battery went dead. In a 6-volt system all connections need to be very clean. Also, if someone has replaced your 6 volt battery cables w/ typical 12 volt cables your battery won't charge properly.

[nearchoclatetown]

Doug, I will send you Les's address in an email. Don't know why paypal doesn't work for you, we get several every month.

[Guest MidTNDawg]

Bob, thanks and I think you have hit a strong point. Understanding E=IR is a good thing, but only if you think to apply it. Thanks again. Doug

[Guest MidTNDawg]

UPDATE - The spring is in place and does keep the panel tight. Battery charging working fine now. A good end to the day. Now if the snow, ice, and salt would just go away. LOL. Doug

[Guest 1930]

We had the same discussion about 6-8 months ago about paypall not working when members trying to pay dues, seems to work for some but not for others

[idrjoe_sandiego]

Bob, thanks and I think you have hit a strong point. Understanding E=IR is a good thing, but only if you think to apply it. Thanks again. Doug

Doug, are you referring to Ohm's Law? If so, then I think you mean V=IR. Just to be picky.

[Guest MidTNDawg]

Yes, to Ohm's Law. Perhaps in today's world it has changed but for many years E represented voltage. Not sure but I believe E was shortened from EMF or Electromotive Force. Again, not sure of the EMF piece but very sure once upon a time the formula was E=IR. Spent far too many hours in class and working in the vacuum tube world to have forgotten that. Saying vacuum tube world will give you an idea of how long ago. And again the terminology may be changed. But I still represents amps I suppose. Anyway LOL and being picky doesn't bother me. Doug

[dwollam]

Paypall hasnt worked on Dodge membership for at least a couple of years that I know of but you can mail the check and if you need the address let me know

I have used the paypal to renew my membership every year since it became available. It does indeed work. If I am not mistaken there is a solution on the DBC page if it fails.

[nearchoclatetown]

You guys have me confused. I thought E=MC square, and EMF became Studebaker.

[Guest MidTNDawg]

Dave, I do not doubt it will work but it did not for me. I mailed my membership check today. Because I got the message my application was submitted I stopped so there would not be multiple apps in looking for money.

And Doug, if my first name was Albert I am sure E would equal MCC. And EMF started making bowling balls didn't they? LOL.

I do enjoy this forum.

Also my "books" came in the mail today. There is a manual. The front cover says First Edition, May 1929 Sounds right as the serial no. seems to indicate a April, May date of mfr. I think. Doug

[dwollam]

Here is the link to the instructions on the DBC page.

Dodge Brothers Club - Official Web Page of the Dodge Brothers Club

[Guest MidTNDawg]

Jason, the machine screws are missing from the floor boards. The toe boards do have screws. Doug

[Guest 1930]

Doug here is hwat the original screws looked like, I guess I was correct in that these on the horizontal portion of floorboard do not have a lockwasher. Also the original washers were not quite as large as the hole that was made to accomidate them.

They are of course slotted head, you have to remember that they did not use or have such a thing as phillips head that early ( as far as I know ) and notice the points on the end. Of interest is the point was intended to pierce that strip of felt that was originally secured to the underside of these boards to help eliminate squeeks and rattles between the floorboards and the tops of the frame where these boards sit. It is approx 1 1/2 long.

Dont really know exactely which direction you would like to go but my feeling is that you are prob. more after just enjoying the car driving it ect, so you prob. are not as bothered when you find out that maybe something is not as it should be.

Its all on what your interested in, these little details are what I am interested in, I am not so much interested in driving the cars but I do enjoy discussing the little details.

Hope this pic. helped and by the way when I purchased my car quite a few years ago all of these little details were also missing from car but over time I learned what was supposed to be there by talking with people, buying parts cars and searching sites like e-bay and internet in general. If you ever were to become more interested all of these little details can be found but it takes time and alot of effort, you just cant go to swap meets anymore and expect to find this stuff for a song and a dance ( unless you get lucky ) It takes time and in most cases money.

Edited February 12, 2011 by 1930 (see edit history)

[Guest MidTNDawg]

"Dont really know exactely which direction you would like to go but my feeling is that you are prob. more after just enjoying the car driving it ect, so you prob. are not as bothered when you find out that maybe something is not as it should be."

Jason, when worded this way, this is probably correct. However, I definitely am desiring to know 1) What the original was? and 2) Can I enjoy it as original? and 3) It does bother me when I find something is not as original.

Having said that, let me again thank you for the effort and the information. And thanks for trying to preserve the originality of cars and data. In looking at the picture it appears there is a little shoulder near the head of the screw; is this so? Also, my memory seems to recall many body screws / bolts used to be pointed. I always assumed that was to speed assembly. Can you provide a size and thread for the screw?

[Guest 1930]

In my opinion it is hard to enjoy an original car ( if you intend to drive it often ) because the parts are so darned hard to find and when something does break its a real bummer but Glen and Ednas Journey are proving me wrong daily.

There are alot of guys that go on tours, long tours but again they have slightly modified their cars such as carbs trannys ect or they just have a barnyard full of spares they have collected throughout the years.

Lets face it, a T-6 in one of our cars would make for a much more enjoyable ride I admit but because of that what will ever be the chance that that old piece of crap non synchroed tranny will ever make it back in the car because of that. None, that is why I persoanlly appose modifications. Everyone has to make a stand when it comes to issues they are interested in so mine is to keep them original. Dosent mean Joe or anyone else is wrong, Just a difference of opinions. I try and keep at least a couple of spares of alot of things but there are guys that have been collecting this stuff alot longer than I have.

I can give you exact desc. of every nut and bolt in your car, I have even cross referanced these #s with all other makes of Chrysler from our time period to make finding these hardware easier.

In all parts books ( I should say in all that I have seen from this time frame ) there is a section called standard parts it lists all the nuts and bolts and gives ( most of the time although I have noted quite a few ommisions lets say ) accurate desc. of the same. I can get this info later tonight, we are leaving shortly. You dont have to keep thanking me, its not very often that I get the opportunity to spew out all this useless information that I have collected and I am really enjoying myself

Yes there is a shoulder by the way and this would assure you wouldnt snap the floorboard if overtightened and that is good thinking on reason for pointed end and that may be so on later cars but I dont think that is the case on ours because you dont see these pointed bolts any other place that I can think of off the top of my head.

Also I was going to send you an e-mail anyway but I will just ask here for pict. of your car again. I have only seen the one posted here and that was a half a car. I owuld like to see under the hood both sides, interior from many angles and a few exterior showing all around the car. Thanks

Edited February 12, 2011 by 1930 (see edit history)

[Guest MidTNDawg]

Jason, first I sincerely appreciate your help (and the help of others as well) so it is necessary to say, "Thank you." I do have a couple more pictures now and will get them posted. I found the rebuilt vacuum tank was not properly reinstalled and therefore not pumping. I have been working to correct that. About done I think. I need to find a better way to refill the vaccum tank. Doug

[Bob Zetnick]

Jason, that is a great photo of the floorboards. When I got my car years ago I only had one small piece of that side trim. It was badly dented and I threw it out...I don't remember screws holding it on as much as I remember wire brads as the trim seemed to be soft metal....wish I had the trim now! Anyway, do you know of anyone selling that type of trim now?

P.S. you are right in that the screws would be slot-type as I believe the phillip type of screw was first used on Oldsmobile in 1936.

[Guest 1930]

Screws do not hold it in, If you look closely Bob you will see the heads of the wire brads, The srews hold the floorboards down. I dont know of anyone but it wouldnt be to difficult to make yourself using a good square workedge and some duckbilled vice grips. I may have a small sample if you would like.

Canadian cars used a different sort of fastner on some areas of their cars or the head was different, closer to a philips, cant remember what the name of that head was maybe someone can remind me

[Guest Knucklebuster]

I have came to the conclusion that my dream vacation would be in Florida. But not siteseeing, I just want to sit for days and soak up some knowledge from 1930. I have that condition also of wanting to see all the details sitting still. I do enjoy the driving but the journey to get there means so much more!

Then I have to go all the way to Oregon.

I still would love to see a pic of an original '34/'35 headlight reflector and retainers,bulb mount etc. Depress Beam. Detailed description would be just as good.

[keiser31]

I have came to the conclusion that my dream vacation would be in Florida. But not siteseeing, I just want to sit for days and soak up some knowledge from 1930. I have that condition also of wanting to see all the details sitting still. I do enjoy the driving but the journey to get there means so much more!

Then I have to go all the way to Oregon.

I still would love to see a pic of an original '34/'35 headlight reflector and retainers,bulb mount etc. Depress Beam. Detailed description would be just as good.

And while you are in Oregon, stop by my place and see my '31s.

[Guest Knucklebuster]

Thats why I was coming up there. Did the '31 come with the taillight I always see, the roundy one with "dodge" written in the center? Do you know how long they used it? I bought an actual 1935 brochure so I could get some info for mine but all the detailed pics I needed werent there. Its an awesome piece for general info though. I found out about the crank hole plug here on the forum ,but the lights still escape me. Looking forward to the southwest nats here in april but very few of the NSRA cars that show up are even close to original any more. I just like looking at them because each one might still have a clue of how it used to be.