Stainless Tim on the 56 Buick?

[Guest gunjeep444]

Some of my trim on the 56 Roadmaster was sanded by the previous owner to go with his 'rat rod' look. Isn't it stainless? If so could I sand it with 1000 grit or so, then polish it up? Tried polish, helped some, but scratches are deeper. Appreciate any advice.

Using a buffer wheel hooked to one drill in a vise, then use a cone shaped foam buffer clamped in another vise for finishing up.

[Guest 38cadillacjack]

i have a freind with many buicks,one is a beautiful 55,he says yes stainless.that said, i have been redoing,straightenin,stainless on my 56 premiere(lincoln)started blind,had to ask a body freind,he said start with 220 ,then 400,maybe finer,last sanding must go only 1 way. also besure to sand complete piece.i have been using sisal wheel,black compound ,then green compound,green brings life to color , black helps scrathes,wipe off residue between colors. finally use white for final buff.yea lots of work! good luck

[Bhigdog]

Pretty much what 38CJ said with a couple points I might add. Finish with 600 grit, finer if you like but not necessary. Use a sisal wheel for the black compound but switch to cotton for finishing. If there are ANY scratchs left from course sanding they will not buff out. Wear gloves since you need to get the trim hot, a full face shield, and a dust mask.

BTW, your drill press is not the best tool for this job...............Bob

[buick5563]

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BTW, your drill press is not the best tool for this job..............

You really need a dedicated buffer. Two sides with two different buffing wheels so you don't have to change them often.

Everything else Bob said.

[stealthbob]

I started with following the advice from here:

Introduction To Buffing and Polishing - Caswell Inc.

I enjoy Buffing, not physically demanding......just takes plenty of time.

It also makes a huge dirty and dusty mess!

[Smartin]

I can polish your trim if you're interested in having it done. PM me if you'd like to talk about it!

[Guest Rob McDonald]

Thanks guys, there's some great basic learnings on cutting and polishing here. Recently I've been admiring several pieces of dazzling NOS sweep spear chrome for my '57 Roadmaster and comparing them with the tired old bits with which they'll have to match up. There's some work at the wheel to be done.

Once I get the shine right, is there any advice out there for painting the semi-matte tangerine middle section of the moldings, so that the paint sticks to the stainless steel? The factory finish didn't always hold on so well. ~Rob

[Bhigdog]

I masked the stainless with GOOD tape (3M green) and roughed up where was going to paint with a scotchbrite pad. It's held up well but it never sees bad weather either...............Bob

[Guest Rob McDonald]

Ooo... sanding after all that polishing work? That's brave. After buffing and before painting, what will completely remove the wax that's been burnished into every molecule of the metal? I do like to drive my old cars, a lot, so my aim is durability not points. ~Rob

[MrEarl]

I think you will be safe with a "fine" Scotch Brite pad or even 500-600 sandpaper used cautiously. You need to rough it up for the paint to adhere. You could also use a self etching primer before the paint. The sulfuric acid in it will get down into the stainless and help hold the paint. After painting, keep a heavy coat of carnauba wax on it and you should be fine.

There are several pre paint prep products on the market that remove wax, grease, silicone etc. I buy mine at an auto paint store by the gallon but you can buy it by the quart at Eastwood. Don't waste your money on aerosol, buy it by the quart and use a sprayer bottle.

Eastwood's Pre Painting Prep - Prep/Stripping - HotCoat Powder Coating

Edited December 11, 2010 by MrEarl (see edit history)

[Guest gunjeep444]

I plan to get a bench buffer on Monday. It has buffing wheels on each side. I want to shine up the trim Mr Earl, not paint it. So will sand it some, then buff as some have suggested. Saw the Buick yesterday, all 4 doors are off and he got the paint.

[Guest Rob McDonald]

GUNJEEP, sorry, I butted in there - Mr. Earl was responding to my question about painting an accent stripe on stainless moldings, as Buick did on all models in '57. All the posts prior to my interruption offer you (and me) excellent advice on restoring this kind of trim. ~Rob

[buick5563]

Just remeber like Bhigdog said, the buffing wheel won't take out the big scratches. You need to work progressively up (grit wise) with your sandpaper making sure your (for example) 200 grit scratches are taken out by your 320 grit before moving to 400 etc.

The first piece you do will not look as good as the last piece you do once you get the hang of it, so wait until they are all done before reinstalling. Don't ask me how I know this! It is a magical moment the first time you get one right. Again, not difficult, just very time consuming.

[Guest Skyking]

I use different small metal blocks to sand with as if you were doing bodywork. Flat blocks for straight stainless and round blocks for inside curve stainless. I never use just my fingers. I also use WD40 or kerosene on the wet & dry paper. It cuts better. I usually end with 1000 grit. I find using the 1000 is less time on the buffing wheel.

[stealthbob]

It is a magical moment the first time you get one right. Again, not difficult, just very time consuming.

Perfect way to describe stainless buffing.....

The concept of having to sand before buff is important. Sanding takes off the peaks of the scratch without touching the valley. Buffing wears at the valleys as you wear down the peaks so it will take more time and material off before you get it all smooth and shiny.

Also, follow the technique in the link I posted...its important to push or pull the piece on the wheel depending if you are cutting or colouring the piece.

[JohnD1956]

I started with following the advice from here:

Introduction To Buffing and Polishing - Caswell Inc.

QUOTE]

Good reading Bob. Thanks for the link.

[Guest gunjeep444]

I got the buffer set up. Started with 200 grit and worked up to 1000. Then used the buffer and finished up with Maguire's metal polish(done by hand) I think I'll get a finer grit than the 1000, still had some fine scratches from the sanding, but it looked LOTS better than when I started. Thanks for everyone's advice. You guys have always come through for me and I appreciate it!

[Smartin]

I always go to 2000. I have 3000 on the shelf, but it's no better than rubbing newspaper on the metal.

[Guest gunjeep444]

I got some 2000 grit, but still seemed to have fine lines, sort of satin. Today, I used some orange rubbing compound, then the white compound. Just applying it by hand. Then finished of with Maguire's metal polish. The white compound seemed to be the key for me. Finished up real shiny. I may not be using my buffer correctly, or have the right compound for it. I have a stick of stuff in a tube that you push out. It is the finest they had. Anyway, glad to find something that worked for me.

LONG process, some of the pieces I had to start out with 120 grit, then work on up. 13 steps in all! Worth it though.

[Smartin]

I usually start with 320 or 400 grit on a DA if the scratches are deep. If not, then I start with 400 wet, then go 600, 800, 1000, 1500 (sometimes), then 2000. Always going in opposite directions than the previous paper...so I can tell I have all scratches out from the last run.

I then go with a sisal wheel and black emery compound.

Then use a stitched wheel with the same emery compound.

Then to a loose buff wheel with white compound.

Then finally a large loose wheel with red polishing compound.

It's a pain, but well worth the time. Those gravel guards I posted earlier...each one was about 3 hours of work.